I think you need some braided stainless fuel lines on that motor. Looks awesome, keep it up.
03 Sunfire - Sold.
Nice, Silver is 100x better than the other color, But damn, I can barely bring myself to drop a tranny just to fix it, You pulled it twice just to paint it haha
MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:BuiltNBoosted wrote:id be careful with the trans wires. i think thats what jason narrowed his trans problems down to. i think the block needs to be painted silver as well 
granted it will get dirty but that trans looks amazing. and do i spy a turbo on the motor next to the trans?
jason has an automatic too. i don't think teddy will have that problem. also the automatic ecotec wiring harness have ground problems from the factory. hard to explain but spent 6 hrs chasing it.
teddy- looks good as always. silver was a wise decision. and why is the turbo sitting on the wrong motor? lol
Thanks guys!
The Snail is sleeping on my spare motor for now, I have another bare block which I'm currently building that it's going on.
I finished the harness tonight, its looks way better now that my fuse block is extended to under the dash, I made 3 main harnesses, one that runs behind the brake booster, along the back of the block up to the Ignition module, Coolant Temp, evaporate solenoid and the #1 o2 Senor. the 2nd harness goes under the transmission which plugs into the speed sensor, 2nd o2 sensor, and the reverse lamp switch. The last harness runs under the intake and goes to the fan, knock senor, oil pres. switch, cps, injectors, IACV, and the TPS.
I think i know of the ground issue your talking about, the stock harness has three small and one large ground wires that are pinched together using a metal clamp. as I had my harness completely torn apart I could see a ground wire that had been cooking out of it's casing, yes, the insulation had melted off more than 12" from the clamp. After diagnosing the problem it would seem the issues was with the metal clamp being loosely pinched therefor making a bad connection, causing resistance, heat, etc. I replaced the ground wire with a heavier gauge, soldiered and heatshrinked the wires together.
The last thing to do now is hook up the battery, I'll let you know how that goes tomorrow in the day time.
Mike, I've done this so many times... lol I timed myself last time i did this and i was able to do in 50 minutes. It takes another hour to put it back in, bleed the clutch and fill the coolant. Even though I'm working behind my garage, I still use air tools and ratchet wrenches.
Teddy wrote:MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:BuiltNBoosted wrote:id be careful with the trans wires. i think thats what jason narrowed his trans problems down to. i think the block needs to be painted silver as well granted it will get dirty but that trans looks amazing. and do i spy a turbo on the motor next to the trans?
jason has an automatic too. i don't think teddy will have that problem. also the automatic ecotec wiring harness have ground problems from the factory. hard to explain but spent 6 hrs chasing it.
teddy- looks good as always. silver was a wise decision. and why is the turbo sitting on the wrong motor? lol
Thanks guys!
The Snail is sleeping on my spare motor for now, I have another bare block which I'm currently building that it's going on.
I finished the harness tonight, its looks way better now that my fuse block is extended to under the dash, I made 3 main harnesses, one that runs behind the brake booster, along the back of the block up to the Ignition module, Coolant Temp, evaporate solenoid and the #1 o2 Senor. the 2nd harness goes under the transmission which plugs into the speed sensor, 2nd o2 sensor, and the reverse lamp switch. The last harness runs under the intake and goes to the fan, knock senor, oil pres. switch, cps, injectors, IACV, and the TPS.
I think i know of the ground issue your talking about, the stock harness has three small and one large ground wires that are pinched together using a metal clamp. as I had my harness completely torn apart I could see a ground wire that had been cooking out of it's casing, yes, the insulation had melted off more than 12" from the clamp. After diagnosing the problem it would seem the issues was with the metal clamp being loosely pinched therefor making a bad connection, causing resistance, heat, etc. I replaced the ground wire with a heavier gauge, soldiered and heatshrinked the wires together.
The last thing to do now is hook up the battery, I'll let you know how that goes tomorrow in the day time.
Mike, I've done this so many times... lol I timed myself last time i did this and i was able to do in 50 minutes. It takes another hour to put it back in, bleed the clutch and fill the coolant. Even though I'm working behind my garage, I still use air tools and ratchet wrenches.
so your coming to tuck my engine bay........ when again?
in for final tuck pics, i wanna see how it is compared to mine i did and where/how everything was routed.
did you hide your main plug for interior/exterior?
silver trans is 100% better.
Underdog Racing
Nice! Extremely interested in seeing the wire tuck. I painted my trans silver before install year and a half ago. Just cant see it like yours lol
Stephen (manta z) wrote:BuiltNBoosted wrote:MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:BuiltNBoosted wrote:id be careful with the trans wires. i think thats what jason narrowed his trans problems down to. i think the block needs to be painted silver as well granted it will get dirty but that trans looks amazing. and do i spy a turbo on the motor next to the trans?
jason has an automatic too. i don't think teddy will have that problem. also the automatic ecotec wiring harness have ground problems from the factory. hard to explain but spent 6 hrs chasing it.
teddy- looks good as always. silver was a wise desicion. and why is the turbo sitting on the wrong motor? lol
but jason did another harness to another car and it was messing up the trans too. so id just be weary of it messing up the trans is all.
both were automatics, so that is not to say a manual will have issues where the computer has really nothing to do with the trans. just my thought though. wont know till someone tries.
that was what i was getting at.
teddy- plans sound really good. can't wait to see the pics.
Stephen (manta z) wrote:BuiltNBoosted wrote:MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:BuiltNBoosted wrote:id be careful with the trans wires. i think thats what jason narrowed his trans problems down to. i think the block needs to be painted silver as well granted it will get dirty but that trans looks amazing. and do i spy a turbo on the motor next to the trans?
jason has an automatic too. i don't think teddy will have that problem. also the automatic ecotec wiring harness have ground problems from the factory. hard to explain but spent 6 hrs chasing it.
teddy- looks good as always. silver was a wise desicion. and why is the turbo sitting on the wrong motor? lol
but jason did another harness to another car and it was messing up the trans too. so id just be weary of it messing up the trans is all.
both were automatics, so that is not to say a manual will have issues where the computer has really nothing to do with the trans. just my thought though. wont know till someone tries.
yeah im pretty sure (though not 100% yet) but i think it was the wires that go to the shifting soleniods on the fuse block for the automatics, you probalby wont have these with a manual.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sndsgood/ https://www.facebook.com/#!/Square1Photography
So I redid my harness again, Sorry i didnt take pictures of the stock harness before i started to tare it apart. If you look at the way i reconfigured the ecu plugs, int/ext plug, and fuse block you will notice that it's all inside of the car now. My first alteration had extended the ecu plugs and fuse block inside the car, but the second time i tore it apart i moved the int/ext plug under the dash, aswell as extened one of the main harnesses and shortening two of the others.
You can see in the third picture, the firewall would be where my irodo torch is sitting.
All the wiring goes down behind the transmission and under the engine to the front.
all that's left this time is to get some more 1/4" loom, extend my starter signal wire, and attach an eye to one of the grounds.
When installed you can see about 10" off the firewall then it dissappears. ( installed pics tomorrow )
My fingertips are burnt from soldering lol.
Looks good. Tub your wheel wells while your at it to make it all look smooth instead of all thise corners and angles. Other then that I love your engine bay.
looking good man.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
look very good man.....keep us updated
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
Ryan suddick wrote:Looks good. Tub your wheel wells while your at it to make it all look smooth instead of all thise corners and angles. Other then that I love your engine bay.
Thanks, Its funny you say that, I already have
THIS bookmarked.
Perfect you know what your doing then good job. Iv got a set sitting around waiting for a project when i deside to buy one.
Well i finished everything up tonight and i'm pleased with the results. Everything works great!
I ended up polishing my other fuel rail, heres a few pics.
These were taken before i actually polished it, this is just after wetsanding and removing the bulge in the center of it.
Ill have to get some better pics taken of my bay soon.
Oh, and i altered my coolant setup again.
just WOWWWW really nice works
i love it.
i think after i get another beater. i will be pulling my harness back out.
im surprised you haven't ditched the EVAP stuff to get rid of the solenoid next to the ICM
Stephen (manta z) wrote:im surprised you haven't ditched the EVAP stuff to get rid of the solenoid next to the ICM
How do you go about that? And is there any codes set from it?
Hmmm, in for more pics/information!! Im really wanting to do this when I start the engine work on my vert a little later in the winter, but now im kinda worried since people are talking about the issues with the auto transmissions. Any more insight to this, anyone?? Thanks!! And ur engine bay looks flipping awsome!!!!!
Philly D wrote:Stephen (manta z) wrote:im surprised you haven't ditched the EVAP stuff to get rid of the solenoid next to the ICM
How do you go about that? And is there any codes set from it?
here you go.
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=1&i=382027&t=382027
and most likely yes on the cel's. i already had an evap cel, so it didn't bother me if i had another one. no emission's testing ftw!
