yes i know i know everybody is already screaming newbe from my last post(i was the guy that wanted to take the solstice engine and drive shaft and shove it in my 99z24 to make it rwd) yea yea that was me. well im gonna keep that in my head as a dream. now i want to turbo my LD9. before i start i wanted to ask should i rebuild? the person that i bought it from said it was rebuilt already but i have a knock. some say the knock is my lifters or cam rockers. not sure i drive alot and it has been fine though. even push it sometimes and it still hasnt given me any problems but it will get fixed. other than that i need a new head gasket and the engine is good. but should i rebuild again to strengthen it for the boost. if so what parts need to be strengthen or replaced with stronger parts. all comments and ideas are welcome.........just dont beat me up to bad lol
also my 99z24 is an automatic 4spd
Obviously the better you can rebuild it with stronger parts, the better off you are gonna be when its boosted. That extra stress on the motor is killer if it already has problems, so id get it checked out and have a compression test, and figure out what the knock is and do some research before you jump into it.
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First off if your engine is knocking it is more than likley your rod bearings and your cars engine is not going to last much longer if you keep driving it. If it were lifters the noise would be a tick and it would go away as the engine warmed up. There is no such thing as "cam rockers" maybe "rocker arms" but those are found in OHV engines not in DOHC engines like your 2.4.
You won't notice a problem other than the knocking noise until without warning the engine siezes or throw the conecting rod through the block and thus leaves you stranded.
No offense but you really need to back up off this performance kick you have until you understand more about how your engine works. It is not that we are not willing to help you. It is just at this point I could type up a 3 page long post and you still would not understand everything I said.
Get your engine fixed and then come talk to us.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Pick up a Haynes manual and read through the engine teardown and rebuild chapters. just keep reading that untill you have a complete understand on how our engine operates. I have done this, the same as most other on this site have most likely done. I DOES help.
To learn more about turboing your engine, please please PLEASE pick up the book Maximum Boost by Corky Bell before you touch ANYTHING.
Our engine is rather simple, so to pick up about 90% of the information in a couple days is not uncommon.
Good Luck.
Wade Jarvis wrote:First off if your engine is knocking it is more than likley your rod bearings and your cars engine is not going to last much longer if you keep driving it. If it were lifters the noise would be a tick and it would go away as the engine warmed up. There is no such thing as "cam rockers" maybe "rocker arms" but those are found in OHV engines not in DOHC engines like your 2.4.
You won't notice a problem other than the knocking noise until without warning the engine siezes or throw the conecting rod through the block and thus leaves you stranded.
No offense but you really need to back up off this performance kick you have until you understand more about how your engine works. It is not that we are not willing to help you. It is just at this point I could type up a 3 page long post and you still would not understand everything I said.
Get your engine fixed and then come talk to us.
ok sorry it is more of a tick. it only comes sometimes like when im decelerating. when the engine is at idle u can also hear it but not that loud. and i would understand some not all of ur 3 page long post. yall are talking to me as if im a complete dumb ass.
Thrice . wrote:Pick up a Haynes manual and read through the engine teardown and rebuild chapters. just keep reading that untill you have a complete understand on how our engine operates. I have done this, the same as most other on this site have most likely done. I DOES help.
To learn more about turboing your engine, please please PLEASE pick up the book Maximum Boost by Corky Bell before you touch ANYTHING.
Our engine is rather simple, so to pick up about 90% of the information in a couple days is not uncommon.
Good Luck.
i have the haynes manual.........
Quote:
yall are talking to me as if im a complete dumb ass.
We don't mean to, we just don't know how knowledgable you really are since we are typing over the internet.
If we approach everyone like they don't have a clue, it only covers all of our bases so no one has trouble following the help.
Thrice . wrote:Quote:
yall are talking to me as if im a complete dumb ass.
We don't mean to, we just don't know how knowledgable you really are since we are typing over the internet.
If we approach everyone like they don't have a clue, it only covers all of our bases so no one has trouble following the help.
i appreciate your explanation
Wade Jarvis wrote:First off if your engine is knocking it is more than likley your rod bearings and your cars engine is not going to last much longer if you keep driving it. If it were lifters the noise would be a tick and it would go away as the engine warmed up. There is no such thing as "cam rockers" maybe "rocker arms" but those are found in OHV engines not in DOHC engines like your 2.4.
You won't notice a problem other than the knocking noise until without warning the engine siezes or throw the conecting rod through the block and thus leaves you stranded.
No offense but you really need to back up off this performance kick you have until you understand more about how your engine works. It is not that we are not willing to help you. It is just at this point I could type up a 3 page long post and you still would not understand everything I said.
Get your engine fixed and then come talk to us.
i agree with rod bearings.... when my 2.4 had a spun bearing, it started as a tick and only got worse. IMO rod bearings are the easiest thing to change. if you have a tick i suggest checking your rod bearings asap. if the bearing spins on the crank enough the journal will be scratched up and ruined and u will need a new crank. been there done that.
i would say go eco, but your pre 00, so you'd really have a lot of work to do with that... ive had bad luck with the 2.4 and never want on in my car again. i dont hate the engines, i just dont trust them.
Ben D(Silver J on 1Nines) wrote:Wade Jarvis wrote:First off if your engine is knocking it is more than likley your rod bearings and your cars engine is not going to last much longer if you keep driving it. If it were lifters the noise would be a tick and it would go away as the engine warmed up. There is no such thing as "cam rockers" maybe "rocker arms" but those are found in OHV engines not in DOHC engines like your 2.4.
You won't notice a problem other than the knocking noise until without warning the engine siezes or throw the conecting rod through the block and thus leaves you stranded.
No offense but you really need to back up off this performance kick you have until you understand more about how your engine works. It is not that we are not willing to help you. It is just at this point I could type up a 3 page long post and you still would not understand everything I said.
Get your engine fixed and then come talk to us.
i agree with rod bearings.... when my 2.4 had a spun bearing, it started as a tick and only got worse. IMO rod bearings are the easiest thing to change. if you have a tick i suggest checking your rod bearings asap. if the bearing spins on the crank enough the journal will be scratched up and ruined and u will need a new crank. been there done that.
i would say go eco, but your pre 00, so you'd really have a lot of work to do with that... ive had bad luck with the 2.4 and never want on in my car again. i dont hate the engines, i just dont trust them.
i really appreciate that piece of information......trust me ive been wanting to get it fixed since i had the car......the little spoled brat that had it didnt take care of it........ but thanks for the info......im gonna get a torch wrench and look inside.......what exactly do i look for.....i know what side the sound is comming from but dont know how the damaged part is going to look
Replacing the rod bearings on a 2.4 is NOT easy with the engine still in the car. Due to the balance shafts covering up the bearings and rod caps you can not just pull the pan and get to them. Further complicating the process is the chain that drives the balance shafts, not to mention the oil pan is not easy to remove. Most oil pans you just loosen a bunch of 10mm bolts and it drops down like a automatic transmission pan, however on the 2.4 you have the lower engine mount that bolts to a bracket that bolts to the oil pan on the bottom and to the side of the engine where the timing chain is as well. Plus there is a coolant line.
I would reccomend that you have several people who are familar with the sound of a rod knock listen to your engine. To somone who knows the sound it will not be hard for them to notice and seperate if it is valvetrain noise (which is not common on a 2.4) or rod bearing knock.
FYI You would use a tourqe wrench not a "torch" wrench. LOL Tourqe wrenches are used for tightening the nuts that hold the rod cap down to the manufactures tq spec not for loosening bolts.
Search google for pics of bad rod bearings and damged cranks. That will give you an idea what to look for if or when you tear your engine apart. Aslo look in your haynes manual under the engine rebuild section. There are probably detailed pictures and instructions of what to look for in there.
The 2.4 is not a bad engine per say. I beat on mine for 70,000 miles. I even would take hard corners on a daily basis at ful throltte getting on the on ramp by my house. Looking back on it this was a bad idea because the oil light would come on for a second after the hard corner indicating I had 0 oil pressure. The thing to remeber is check your oil level frequently and always fill it right to the full mark. Even if it is still in the normal area between the marks you could loose oil presure in hard turns. You will know if you are loosing oil pressure in hard turns because your oil pressure light will come on for a split second. Lack of lubrication often caused by low oil pressure and or high rpms is the number one way to spin a rod bearing.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, August 20, 2008 1:31 PM
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Wade Jarvis wrote:Replacing the rod bearings on a 2.4 is NOT easy with the engine still in the car. Due to the balance shafts covering up the bearings and rod caps you can not just pull the pan and get to them. Further complicating the process is the chain that drives the balance shafts, not to mention the oil pan is not easy to remove. Most oil pans you just loosen a bunch of 10mm bolts and it drops down like a automatic transmission pan, however on the 2.4 you have the lower engine mount that bolts to a bracket that bolts to the oil pan on the bottom and to the side of the engine where the timing chain is as well. Plus there is a coolant line.
I would reccomend that you have several people who are familar with the sound of a rod knock listen to your engine. To somone who knows the sound it will not be hard for them to notice and seperate if it is valvetrain noise (which is not common on a 2.4) or rod bearing knock.
FYI You would use a tourqe wrench not a "torch" wrench. LOL Tourqe wrenches are used for tightening the nuts that hold the rod cap down to the manufactures tq spec not for loosening bolts.
Search google for pics of bad rod bearings and damged cranks. That will give you an idea what to look for if or when you tear your engine apart. Aslo look in your haynes manual under the engine rebuild section. There are probably detailed pictures and instructions of what to look for in there.
The 2.4 is not a bad engine per say. I beat on mine for 70,000 miles. I even would take hard corners on a daily basis at ful throltte getting on the on ramp by my house. Looking back on it this was a bad idea because the oil light would come on for a second after the hard corner indicating I had 0 oil pressure. The thing to remeber is check your oil level frequently and always fill it right to the full mark. Even if it is still in the normal area between the marks you could loose oil presure in hard turns. You will know if you are loosing oil pressure in hard turns because your oil pressure light will come on for a split second. Lack of lubrication often caused by low oil pressure and or high rpms is the number one way to spin a rod bearing.
thanks for the input.....i was typing too fast therefore i miss spelled torque.....and yes i know its for tightening the bolts back......thats what i meant to say....my bad
Wade Jarvis wrote:Replacing the rod bearings on a 2.4 is NOT easy with the engine still in the car. Due to the balance shafts covering up the bearings and rod caps you can not just pull the pan and get to them. Further complicating the process is the chain that drives the balance shafts, not to mention the oil pan is not easy to remove. Most oil pans you just loosen a bunch of 10mm bolts and it drops down like a automatic transmission pan, however on the 2.4 you have the lower engine mount that bolts to a bracket that bolts to the oil pan on the bottom and to the side of the engine where the timing chain is as well. Plus there is a coolant line.
replacing the rod bearings IS EASY compared to taking the head off of the car. i've only done it like 3 times..... maybe i'm just better w/ the 2.4. yes, you have to drain coolant and oil, take off the coolant line that goes around the bottom of the engine, then take of the oil pan (which is just as easy to take off as the eco pan), then take off the oil pump, i understand there seems like alot to do, but this is MUCH easier than mr jarvis says. this may take two hours or less, at least for me. i think with the rod bearings being a major problems with the 2.4 its a great idea to check this out.
you will be able to tell a good rod bearing from a bad on, its very obvious.
but i do agree, let someone that has had a rod bearing problem listen to it.... we know what it sounds like
you can see here in this pic that the two left journals are scarred... i worked on one other engine that had a spun bearing the journal was actually ovalized if thats a word....
i cant edit cause i'm not premium, but i meant changing rod bearings w/ the engine in the car is still rather easy
Ben D(Silver J on 1Nines) wrote:Wade Jarvis wrote:Replacing the rod bearings on a 2.4 is NOT easy with the engine still in the car. Due to the balance shafts covering up the bearings and rod caps you can not just pull the pan and get to them. Further complicating the process is the chain that drives the balance shafts, not to mention the oil pan is not easy to remove. Most oil pans you just loosen a bunch of 10mm bolts and it drops down like a automatic transmission pan, however on the 2.4 you have the lower engine mount that bolts to a bracket that bolts to the oil pan on the bottom and to the side of the engine where the timing chain is as well. Plus there is a coolant line.
replacing the rod bearings IS EASY compared to taking the head off of the car. i've only done it like 3 times..... maybe i'm just better w/ the 2.4. yes, you have to drain coolant and oil, take off the coolant line that goes around the bottom of the engine, then take of the oil pan (which is just as easy to take off as the eco pan), then take off the oil pump, i understand there seems like alot to do, but this is MUCH easier than mr jarvis says. this may take two hours or less, at least for me. i think with the rod bearings being a major problems with the 2.4 its a great idea to check this out.
you will be able to tell a good rod bearing from a bad on, its very obvious.
but i do agree, let someone that has had a rod bearing problem listen to it.... we know what it sounds like
you can see here in this pic that the two left journals are scarred... i worked on one other engine that had a spun bearing the journal was actually ovalized if thats a word....
im real greatful for the help.......but i cant see the scaring that you are talking about on the two left journals
thats a brand new crank.... the scarring looks pretty obvious to me on the first pic i posted. maybe just cause i got used to seeing it. but u see how its just like lines that go all the way around journal, thats the scarring. its much better in person, and to be able to run ur fingernail over it helps too lol
if you need a write up on how to change the rod bearings, i can dig it up, i wrote one, and have it somewhere on one of my computers
Ben D(Silver J on 1Nines) wrote:
thats a brand new crank.... the scarring looks pretty obvious to me on the first pic i posted. maybe just cause i got used to seeing it. but u see how its just like lines that go all the way around journal, thats the scarring. its much better in person, and to be able to run ur fingernail over it helps too lol
if you need a write up on how to change the rod bearings, i can dig it up, i wrote one, and have it somewhere on one of my computers
ok cool now i can kinda see what you are talking about. do those come off? they look like part of the crank. would i have to get a whole new crank. and yes that writeup will be of some good use to me. didnt know how big of a problem this was and sorry to everybody for talking about this in the boost forum section
the journals are apart of the crank. that was the new crank that went into my engine. you can just replace the rod bearings and it would be ok for about 4 months, but it would just spin again (if your crank is in the condition my crank was in). i'm thinking if u get to them and replace them before they mess up the crank, then you might be ok. i'll find that write up and pm it to you.
thanks bra you were a big help. friend request coming your way lol
cool thanks. nowim browsing to find a new crank shaft because im thinking if i do all that and have to re do it in 4 months why not just replace the whole thing
well, if you are goin to replace the crank, you need to pull the engine. period. lol.... when i said it would spin again in 4 months, thats only if your crank is messed up.... ur crank could be just fine still, so i would definately suggest checkin first. a new set of rod bearings is around 65 bucks. new crank was 250 i believe.
when my rod bearing spun i drove on it for a while, dumb i know, but i wasnt mechanically inclined then...
well i bought the car in march......b4 i bought it they said it was just sitting for about 6 months......so from march till now ive been driving it with this problem.....when i first test drove it the sound was there so i dont know how long it has really been making that noise.....but from march of 08 till now ive been driving the hell out of it.....road trips and all......would it be time for a new crank from all that??
might be, yeah.....fix it, sell it, get an eco lol
