Quote:
Guys there really is no need for the rear triangulation for these types of cars. I talked to a couple engineers and my welder and all have asked why the triangulation, as its a front wheel drive car and its not really needed. I will build but need a first person to prepay.
PM'ed
There's no need for a lot of studd we do to our cars.
But that's not the point of modding is it.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
Ok, let see how it turns out.
I'll need everyone's input, esp Misnblu.
But Mark makes good schyt so the results should make us happy.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
LOL a rear triangular bar is fine i guess...i was talking about a front one. but a rear will be in my near future.
ill be down as soon as i get parts i need to get my baby running again. ill be down for front and back and so be it if im the first to experiment with.
I forgot about the front.
Only have the funds to get the rear going, so I sent a paypal to Mark.
So hopefully by next week he should have something for us.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
Mastin wrote:Ok, let see how it turns out.
I'll need everyone's input, esp Misnblu.
But Mark makes good schyt so the results should make us happy.
-M
I'd like to see what this is going to look like and how it's going to be installed in the car.
I'm always up for new ideas and this does intrigue me.
My main concern though is the fender braces.
That pretty much has all of my interest but if there is help needed or some ideas/ feedback on a design, I'd be glad to help.
Also, to say that our J's don't need the trunk reinforced with a 4 point brace in the trunk is silly.
Engineers should realize that it's the trunk area that helps to support the strut towers with the frame rails coming on either side of the trunk.
There is twist there with hard cornering and I can attest that the mod is a good one.
I'm a firm believer in a stiff chassis, even for a daily driver and on a stock suspension. The effects are a wonderful driving car that feels better on the road and gives you less pronounced squeaks when you drive on rough roads. It really does make a difference.
Good luck with the GP OEM.
The one piece should sell really good with the price you've got.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
OEM wrote:Guys there really is no need for the rear triangulation for these types of cars. I talked to a couple engineers and my welder and all have asked why the triangulation, as its a front wheel drive car and its not really needed. I will build but need a first person to prepay.
funny thing is people think that about the front , but it works
if you look at stuff for older mustangs , they went from having just 2 braces stock from the firewall to the inner fenders , to 2 stock style bars , and side to side bar , and then 2 bars to the front , in essence making a diamond shape with a center bar
How the hell do these piles of junk make a difference with only
ONE mounting point per strut. Why the hell is material wasted on the other bolt? It doesnt do anything.
The one good thing about it is that it makes one hell of a weapon.
OEM wrote:If you would read instead of just making comments that make you look foolish, it has two connecting points. ONe on the far corner and one on the inside. Please read before posting so you dont confuse anyone.
Mark
I uninstalled one this past weekend while helping another JBO member swap suspensions. Actually held it in my hands, looked at how it fit, felt the weight, etc. I have know idea what you are smoking to think that that 1" hole can do anything. You have
one, uno, 1 mounting point per strut.
Nope, i understand that you dont know what you are doing.
Sure. Send everything up here. I'll rename the "company" Quality Overkill Engineering Motorsports(QOEM for short).
I have one and I am overly happy with what it has done with the rear of the car. To each his own though.
I've actually seen one on a car that came over the house and I was impressed.
Properly mounted, the bar is solid as a rock.
When you thump it, it has that resonant ring to it which tells me that the bar is on there solid and isn't going anywhere.
I understand the design that Mark made for the strut bar and even though it defies logic in the way it's mounted, it seems to be doing the job.
Marks bar and mounting is probably stronger than any Freedom Design bar that on the market for our cars.
My only issue is that you can't preload the bar and that it does in fact only attach to one mounting point but again, the design is such that it does the job.
If I wouldn't have seen it myself installed on a car, I would've said the same thing but upon witnessing it in person, I'm impressed.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
The master has spoken and he speaks of my car! Topic closed!
Why attack one of the few out there supporting our platform? Give the guy some pointers or constructive criticism. I honestly think that Mark from OEM is trying to help out the community for aftermarket support. I can vouch that he's a credible company to deal with. That's all I've got to say about that.
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NCR-SCCA
.5 FAST CAV wrote:Why attack one of the few out there supporting our platform? Give the guy some pointers or constructive criticism. I honestly think that Mark from OEM is trying to help out the community for aftermarket support. I can vouch that he's a credible company to deal with. That's all I've got to say about that.
I was waiting for this reply. Just because someone makes parts for us doesnt mean that they are good parts. I have also dealt with Mark and he tried to rip me off when i helped him with an eco TB for him to try to bore.
Just because i dont swing on your nuts like the others means im a cry baby? So be it.
if the strut towers have been tweeked from being in an accident or something, it wont fit right, due to a lack of adjustability. but if the body is straight there should be no problems. the 1" hole that is on either side of the bar is meant to fit over the 1' "washer" (for lack of a better word) that is a part of the strut towers on the inside of the trunk. a large washer goes over the 1" hole on the bar, followed by a nut, so when its tightened down it sandwiches the bar over the "washer" that is a part of the rear strut towers, seating it solidly and flush against the tower in 2 spots per side. it does indeed work. quite well. i've had the bar mounted properly for almost a year, and think its a nice piece. but as stated, if the body is tweaked enough, or even if it wasn't installed properly, it won't look or mount right.
