Hello everyone, I have a eco just built and saab turbo kit and after 1 time accelerating I am having a little smoke come out of the tailpipe, the motor is new and I just built it, prolley doesn't have 20 miles on it, how long will the rings take to seat? Also i have about 1 drop of oil on the intake side of the turbo......
Any sugesstions?
Thanks in advance
You should be breaking it in. Change the oil after the first time it was fired. Then go do 3rd gear pulls that stop at 3000 rpm and then slowly ramping up higher, be sure to coast down while in gear too. Then change the oil again. The rings need to experience high pressure and high vacuum to seat properly. Highway driving is the worst you can do.
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ok will do leafy.. on a sidenote, when decelerating the car is almost stalling any tips?
Thanks!!
jason norwood wrote:ok will do leafy.. on a sidenote, when decelerating the car is almost stalling any tips?
Thanks!!
decel in gear until about idle rpms, maybe little higher(1krpm) then press clutch to neutral...you wont stall if the car is moving in gear
good idea but 2 problems with it.. lol
1. its not a fix
2. the car is a auto
oh... well you can always hold it in gear by messing with the shift points. Hold it in third in the tune from 1000 rpm to redline and do the runs. disable dfco if its on, not sure if auto's have it as I've heard dfco and auto's dont normally get along (it was from a ford guy though).
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
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WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
I will look into disabling dfco.
ur absolutely sure the seals on the turbo are good?
we need a bit more back ground on the rings.... what did you gap them to? are they file fit? did you offset the gaps? were the cylinders honed? what kind of lube did you use on them?
Leafy
I disabled DFCO when we had the thread about tuning, I set the enable and disable to 200mph. Could that cause the problem since its a auto?
Z Yaaa No I am not sure about the turbo.. I got it off a 2003 Linear that had 60k on the clock, my other concern is that I have a line going from the valve cover to a catch can and from the can to the nipple over the inlet of turbo, where the sabb sees the valve cover hose stock, am i pressurizing this this way? should I put a filter on the can? Seems like I might be forcing oil into the inlet on the turbo this way?
I will ask the engine builder about the gaps and such and report back. He builds top fuel motors for Dart so I am guessing none of that was installed wrong and I know we filed the rings.
The saab turbo seems to come on around 2500, is this normal?
Thanks for all the support guys!!!
Leafy
Per our tuning thread I disabled the DFCO to enable at 200mph and enable at 200mph, will this cause a problem seeing is its a auto?
Z Yaaaa
No I got the turbo off a linear that had 60k on the clock, not 100 percent sure
I have a line going from the valve cover to catch can then off the can to the inlet on the turbo. Should I put a filter on this catchcan? It seems like I might be pressurizing this and thats how the oil is getting in the turbo? its right above the nipple that was connected to the stock saab valve cover.
I will ask the engine builder the other questions, he is a top fuel motor builder for Dart , we did file the rings, I will ask about the rest and report back.
Using Mobil 1 5/30 for the oil is that too thin for break in?
Thanks for the help guys.
sorry for the double post lol....
We used 10-40 oil in the ring lands and for installing
we used a rotary file to file the rings to Wiseco's spec for turbo application, can check on blueprinting to see what exact gap was
we honed the cylinders
we did offset the gaps
Any additional info please feel free to ask
ur not supposed to use regular oil with rings because it will burn and cause carbon build up sometimes resulting in the rings being pushed out. but i doubt that is ur problem.
do you think that I should be running a oil breather on the catch can?
Thanks
No breather on the catch can. You want vac in there. But an open breather without a catch can is a must as well.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
if your drain line on the turbo is kinked then that's more than likely where the oil is coming from. If your going into boost with 20 miles on the motor, its sure to not last long.
When you first started it up did you let it idle? The best way to break a motor in, is lots of vacuum. Pressure inside the cylinder to put pressure on the rings to expand them against the cyc walls.
You can do so by bringing the car up to around 2500-3000 slowly and then downshifting, even in an auto. You want your decel to show lots of vacuum.
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
Open breather also? how do you do that with how i have it set up?
I will check for a kinked drain line , where did that come from though?
that would cause it to blow oil out the exhaust?
whats is meant by open breather?
yes because it weakens the seals in the turbo and the oil goes right past ending up in the exhaust and burnt smoke.
Ok oil drain is a pain to get to but I will check, what is meant by " open breather"?
drain was fine, it seems to be the breaking in of the rings , put 15 miles on her tuning this weekend and its going away.
OK did u say ur catchcan is routed to the turbo inlet and theres oil in there? How big is the line that goes to the intake? The vac from air passing by the turbo sounds like its sucking the oil into the intake, thats why there is oil in there.
Why do u want to suck oil and oil vapor through the turbo? EPA after you lol? On valvecover outlets that are somewhat baffled people usually just run a breather. If its coming from the crankcase then of course you would use a catchcan (Vented is my preference there as well).
Try capping that intake port, and buying a $3 breather. Put the breather on the catchcan in place of the line going to the intake.
Breaking in the motor, you should be trying to hit every part of the map. Change oil frequently for the first few times ( IVE HEARD non synthetic is better to seal rings but cant confirm)
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Synthetic is better for rings (less chance of coking up when they're still trying to seal. if you have flat tappet cams (ie pre 1970's cars) then synthetic is too slippery for the tappet and cam lop to seat to each other or something like that.
You want to put the catch can line before the turbo to add vacuum there. You need to use vac to pull pressure out of the crank case. Slight Negative pressure in there it the goal.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
He said valve cover I though? Or is that the only port for pressure to escape the crankcase as well?
Why is slight vacuum the goal, besides windage and minimal power gains? The goal in the crankcase is to evacuate pressure produced by blowby(air passing through the rings). Big boost cars run vented catchcan setups all the time. Endynes 300 whp all motor 2.0L is even vented to atmo. This is nothing new.
The vacuum from the intake, the increased pressure in thee cylinder (boost) and the fact that the rings aren't seated could be compounding and carrying a lot of oil/ vapor into the intake.
Is the catchcan baffled? How much oil is in it already?
_________________________________________________________________
EFFICIENCY DETECTIVE
Fast cars. I respect them ALL. Brand elitism is for fanbois and benchracers
daily: 99 civic Si
deceased: 95 cavy '00 LD9 auto swap (vandalized)
