I wish I had half the talent you do.
TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:I wish I had half the talent you do.
You do, You just don't know it.
- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs
after some more tuning today I believe I'm still hitting my faux limiter but at a higher rpm... roughly 6200rpm now.
I'm going to swap the 10k resister for a 15k tonight and go from there.
AFR is acceptable, spark is acceptable and the car is still getting stuck, also noticed a huge jump in RPM under WOT... still trying to determine if it was legit or an anomoly.
another possibility is I could be running into a compatibility issue with the 2.2 cams and the 2.0 bottom end... but I'm going to point the finger at the VR sensor still (since thats what it was last time) and work my way from there.
If the 15k, then 20k resistors dont help I'm going to adjust the cams.
I have cam gears, so if I need to I'll retard the cams 5* and see if that helps the engine to breathe in the top end.
Your getting there man. I recently bought a Honda, I believe I will be switching my tag back to the cavy.
- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs
TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:I wish I had half the talent you do.
Hey, Skwirl was putz when he started. Just takes time and (an unhealthy) dedication...
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
JerseyJayLN2 (Scarab) wrote:TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:I wish I had half the talent you do.
Hey, Skwirl was putz when he started. Just takes time and (an unhealthy) dedication...
And the funds.
I keep checking back for updates. I <3 this thread.
15k is in, there doesn't seem to be any change
I think I'm down to just spending some quality time tuning the car, and if that doesn't help my flat spot, I'm going to start looking into if my cam timing needs to be adjusted to better suit the 2.0 bottom end. worst case scenario: I can just swap LSJ cams in.
I may take a hiatus from tuning since its sort of difficult to do without a gauge cluster in the car.
driving it is a bit of fun though.. looking past the slight frustrations with tuning, the car feels great on the road.. its a completely different animal now but in a good way.
another thing I considered was since my fuel pressure gauge took a @!#$ for the final time (not using proparts products anymore), my fuel pressure may be low which could also be causing my 6200 rpm flat spot.
in other news: injector duty cycle peaks at 25% at WOT. looks like I have plenty of injector for boost.
I have a few questions for you. I forget, but are you using the LSJ trigger or an external 36-1? Have you checked the signal with an oscilloscope yet?
If you have the resources, you may want to check a couple things. If you haven't done it already, use a couple Dial-Indicators and measure the 0.050" valve opening and closing events in relation to TDC first before you start blindly guessing with advancing or retarding the cams. I would also check where in relation to TDC of cylinder #1 is with your sync notch/tooth (i.e. 6+1) or the first notch/tooth after the missing notch/tooth (i.e 36-1). Then, if you can get access to a dual input oscilloscope, I would measure your spark for cylinder #1 and compare it to your VR signal. This would show you just how accurate your MSD's spark advance is as well as if you are getting sufficient spark energy (although that shouldn't be an issue).
On a side note, after all this work PJ, I still think you should have tunneled for a larger exhaust
I have no signiture
Whalesac wrote:I have a few questions for you. I forget, but are you using the LSJ trigger or an external 36-1? Have you checked the signal with an oscilloscope yet?
If you have the resources, you may want to check a couple things. If you haven't done it already, use a couple Dial-Indicators and measure the 0.050" valve opening and closing events in relation to TDC first before you start blindly guessing with advancing or retarding the cams. I would also check where in relation to TDC of cylinder #1 is with your sync notch/tooth (i.e. 6+1) or the first notch/tooth after the missing notch/tooth (i.e 36-1). Then, if you can get access to a dual input oscilloscope, I would measure your spark for cylinder #1 and compare it to your VR signal. This would show you just how accurate your MSD's spark advance is as well as if you are getting sufficient spark energy (although that shouldn't be an issue).
On a side note, after all this work PJ, I still think you should have tunneled for a larger exhaust
LOL if I need to go bigger than 3", its not going to follow the stock route anymore and just dump out of the turbo... straight as possible, short as possible.
on the VR thing..
I do notice I hit a spot where the car accelerates quickly then falls sorta flat again.. usually occurs from 4800-5100rpm or so. I still can't seem to explain why it does this.
I'm using the factory VR sensor and the factory 60-2 wheel on the LSJ crank. I've heard of people using megatunix to log teeth events in order to see if the VR output is acceptable, but if I do need to a buddy has an oscilliscope in work that I fully plan on putting to use if I need it.
I'm really hoping its just the tune and/or lack of fuel pressure, or something else stupid... I really need a fuel pressure gauge to check the fuel pressure.
You are using Megatune, right? Which ".ini firmware update are you using? I just want to get an idea of what editable parameters you have to work with. I assume the ms2-extra I'm using is considerably different.
I have no signiture
I'm running 029y4..... ms1 extra basically, 12x12 tables.
I also noticed that in first, AFR seems ok, 2nd seems a bit worse, 3rd seems even worse... so I'm still sorta leaning towards tune issues.
I haven't really spent quality time attempting to tune the car, so I'm still not ready to call that completely off as the cause just yet.
messed with it a bit more today, no real change.
I'm starting to think VR sensor again.. I may swap out the 15k for the 20k and see if anything happens...
maybe the initial noise I got was filtered by the 10k, but the next bit of noise needs the 20k.. which would explain why the 15k had no change.
trial and error!
if that doesn't help, I may think about relocating my ignition box completely away from the eMS and see if that helps (maybe its getting noise from the ignition box in upper rpm?)
so is this nut lovin sumbich gonna be at the bash?
horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, Torque is how far you push the wall with you
after taking a few days off, and pouring over the tune and talking to whalesac a bit, I decided to try the 20k resistor last night.
peak RPM in a free-rev was 6700rpm. I didn't try under load though.
I'm just going to keep trying the resistor values and see if the RPM climbs again in a free rev.
next I'm going to use a 10k and a 15k to get 25k and go see if I can outrev 6700rpm with no other changes.
if I can, it'll point the finger directly at VR noise and I'll just increase the resistor value until I can get to 8000rpm.
the car drives decent enough even on the rough tune. once I can get the revs above any kind of 'faux' limiter, I'll feel more comfortable about pressing on with finishing up the gauges/ interior, aligning it and getting some serious tuning done with a few trips to/from work.
too bad you couldnt use a scope to find the frequency of the noise and get rid of it with a Cap.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Whalesac wrote:Leafy wrote:too bad you couldnt use a scope to find the frequency of the noise and get rid of it with a Cap.
x2
Agreed
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
VR sensor p/n for L61 and LSJ are different.
just ordered a brand new LSJ VR sensor.. hoping this solves my rev problem (I guess I have an L61 VR sensor in there)
PJ,
Hell of a shifting job coming back from the bash, the stories are epic.
haha thanks mike.
I managed to find my LSJ crank sensor and LSJ crank sensor connector...
one of these three is an LSJ crank sensor... take a wild guess which one it is.
top = LSJ
bottom = L61
seems that the LSJ has a finer 'sensor' area....
connectors are different.
going to be wiring this sensor in place of the L61 sensor and removing the resistors in the VR wire and starting over.
hopefully there's a design change from the LSJ to L61 VR sensors that will cure all my issues with the 60-2 wheel.
maybe as crank speed increases the L61 sensor cannot keep up with the amount of teeth and just goes into what I can best describe as a clipping state (similar to an injector running too high a duty cycle)
so the 'finer' LSJ sensor CAN keep up with all the extra teeth and shouldn't have any problems.
I have my fingers crossed.
This is why i was asking you on FB what type of sensor the LE5/LSJ uses. The LE5 sensor looks identical to the LSJ sensor.
the LE5 is a hall effect sensor tho right ryan? 3 prongs instead of only 2?
Interesting, with my L61 VR sensor it would even start to read the 60-2.
I should of looked into the LSJ sensor about 2 years ago, because that probably could of solved a lot of issues...
Pontiac Fiero powered by L61/LE5 Ecotec "Innovation is a new level of performance"
DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj) v2.0 wrote:the LE5 is a hall effect sensor tho right ryan? 3 prongs instead of only 2?
You are correct sir. Same dimensions, but three prong connection
