Speedline02 (GME Chat!!) wrote:ok... nice... so what is the purpose of the cam position sensor?
It is used in conjunction with the Crank position sensor for Sequential Fuel injection. Without it, you can only run batch fire injection.
I have no signiture
ok... so what does this mean in terms of fuel economy, performance, and runability?
very lilttle. It helps on emissions at idle and possibly cruise, but that's about it.
Quad4's run batch fire all day long.
I have no signiture
nice...
so at this point im really thinking i have bad gas... and fouled out plugs...
and im looking at 260ish psi over 270... but still epic high
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, March 12, 2010 4:37 PM
I think the problem is you need to give me those cams back and get a set of HO cams.
Brad, my HO cam (now yours) have a CPS pad but the .430 did not.
I honestly have never come across an engine with that high of a compression test. I think its a fuel or spark issue still.
idk why the hell gm did the sequential fire BS... my w41 TURBO got 27mpg.
my MODDED N/A LD9 got 32.
honestly i cant imagine much better, im sure its possible due to the CPS but come on.. once ur equal to or past 32 mpg does it really @!#$n matter?
We all need somebody to believe in something...
My 03 with HO cams and a RICH tune and no cam pad got over 31 all the time...
if its not bad gas, i need some suggestions as to what to do to try to troubleshoot and figure out the gremlin in my motor setup
you need to check for spark. You know your getting fuel, find out if you have spark.
FU Tuning
Rodger that... what could be my possible causes of no spark... i know the obvious, fouled plugs, fouled coils, fouled ignition module, fouled CKP Sensor... any other possibilities?
New Subject...
I drained the gas, and put 7 gals of fresh 93 octane fuel in, and put some cheap spark plugs in. The car fired up and runs, idles really good, sounds really good.
New problem... after a quick test drive, at idle i get the oil light on. when i rev it up, the oil light goes off... with an oil pressure gauge attached to the port on the exhaust cam, we noticed 2 PSI of oil pressure at idle....
i'm theorizing on a few possibilities:
1) the oil pump clyde sold me is bad
2) the oil pump gear is not meshing with the crank gear all the way (though it did when the motor was apart) and needs to be shimmed to make full contact
3) an oil passage is clogged up
4) the block was machined wrong... either when clyde had it machined, or when i had the final couple holes tapped and plugged.
i really hope its not the fourth theory.
anyone have any ideas?
Wow surprised on how you got it started.
When you idle it up where does the oil pressure go up to?
FU Tuning
Speedline02 (GME Chat!!) wrote:15 PSI when it reved up
at what RPM? What kind of gauge? You might want to hook gauge up to block and check reading there as well.
FU Tuning
i probably maxed it at 2500 rpms... i dunno what type of gauge, our master techinican pulled it from his tool box, its a testing gauge though, not a car pillar gauge.
another thing i noticed was a tick and a knock... however both could be because of low oil pressure.
a buddy of mine suggested also the knock could be from using floating wrist pins.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, March 13, 2010 4:14 PM
this is yet another good reason to prime the system on the engine stand.
We all need somebody to believe in something...
well i did for the most part... used assembly lube where needed, filled the lifters with oil... however after running with low oil pressure i think i lost some of that prime.
Shoulda went ecotec.....
lol jk had too, I can't wait to see this beast, I love all J's
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
somebody that has done the 2.3 swap has had to come across this one before.. or could know that the cam oil pressure is supposed to be that low
From Quad 4 forums...
p8ntman442 wrote:The oil pump has an internal check valve, sounds like its your problem. You may be overpressurizing, and the valve is opening and sticking open. Ive seen new rebuilt motors lose oil pressure from this problem. How tight are your tollerances? If they are really tight, you might be spiking pressure on cold start up.
The theories on the oil pump being bad/not meshed correcly dont make sense. The oil pump is either spinning or not, not enough mesh will just strip the gear under load. A bad pump is possible as in the thing is out of tollerance, but honestly I cant think of anyone that has ever worn out a pump so that it didnt make pressure. Although that may be because the motor throws a bearing shortly thereafter and thats the carnage people report.
My suggestion is swap out the pump. either way you should fix the problem.
looks like i need a pump then...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, March 13, 2010 7:23 PM
Speedline02 (GME Chat!!) wrote:well i did for the most part... used assembly lube where needed, filled the lifters with oil... however after running with low oil pressure i think i lost some of that prime.
no, by priming i mean bolt the starter up and use it to turn the engine over. if oil comes out the intake tower where the power steering is supposed to bolt on (ie out the hex) then you have pressure and the engine is 'primed'.
you can also do a cylinder pressure check real easily this way. and believe me... even the best engine builders have off days or bad luck. its foolish to think we as amateurs can build an engine flawlessly. its basically cheap insurance.
We all need somebody to believe in something...
well i have 2 PSI of oil coming out of the cam towers
I never had any problems with that pump. I suspect that you may have a passage that is missing a plug. This block was done by the same person as my previous block. From what I recall the only holes that needed finished were just for mounting bolts or dowel pins.
