Keep practicing you WILL get there..... In our cars 60 foot is everything.....
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
Verocity wrote:So your saying increasing timing doesn't make you run a faster time then.
No. I'm saying making the IAT read colder than it actually is is a stupid idea.
At least on the 00-02 supercharged tune, the computer only adjusts spark (reduces it) when temperature is at 154 or higher in IATs. All lower temperatures have a "0" modifier. That means even though you say the hot air coming into the engine is colder than it actually is, it's not doing anything with timing.
And PE AFR is based on Engine Coolant Temperature, not intake air temperature. So you don't get any more fuel either.
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
if I only I would have known this... all that money dumped into the skwirl, all my tuning to get to 14.0 n/a, if I had only done that IAT trick I would have ran 13s for sure...
/sarcasm
skwirl is my hero.....
All my friends with v8 camaros and gay-stangs always make fun of my car saying you need to mod a real car with 4 more cylinders.....Then I just say well this car obviously has potential because there is one that will run 14.0 N/A all motor and then WE ALL LAUGH high 5....(borat) hahaha
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
Verocity wrote:So your saying increasing timing doesn't make you run a faster time then.
Your not increasing timing with this mod.
Also we have no proof that this mod adds any fuel either. I will say me and others do think that there is modifiers in the ECU we can not see with HPT, or change that could add fuel based on IAT, but no proof that they are there.
Without doing this with a wideband/dyno time, it is worthless.
FU Tuning
if i get like 10 of these resistors and line them all up. wonder if ill get a 400 hp 2.4
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
nope^,you need an ecotec to get that much out of resistors
Maybe it doesn't add fuel or trick the car into thinking its colder, all I know is that I have been to the dragstrip every week, for over a month and ran atleast 10 times every day, and I could get no better than an 11.4.
So I put the resistor in just to see what it would do, a couple friends where curious and some didn't think it'd do anything. My first pass with it in I ran the 11.27, then after that I stayed in the 11.3's. I know there are alot of variables to go against, all I'm saying is it did SOMETHING, my MPH where about 1.6 more also.
Take it out and run again. Or take 5 runs with it installed then 5 runs with out it installed on the same night.
Tinkles
2003 Cavalier 1SV
Bagged and Blown
Next Tuesday I will def. do that. Good idea. I'm not saying anyones a liar, all I know is that it seriously did something, and it does sound ridiculous, I know.
That's a good idea but here's a better one.
On your first say 4 runs, reset the ecu. This eliminates any memory of your ecu of your driving habits which it adjusts once you're on the track.
Then make your runs.
When you change to your resistor mod, reset the ecu again. Once again, you're resetting the ecu to a fresh clean start so it filters out an conditions from your previous runs.
Take your runs with the resistors on and see what kind of times you get.
This is the best way to really see if you're resistor theory is actually working because you're running on a freshly reset ecu.
And in perspective, I've run 9.3's on a good cool night in the 1/8 and once it gets into the high 80's with high humidity, have run a much slower 9.7.
Once it got cold again with no changes to the car, I once again was running 9.3's consistently.
So as you can clearly see, that's alot of variation in times compared to atmosphere, temp, and humidity.
But good luck with your experimentation man.
Do the above and post up your results. I'm very curious to see them.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
I can do that, but I hate having to reprogram my headunit
lol..
Next tuesday Ill be going again, Ill do 4 and 4. 4 all normal, 4 with resistor.
Resetting the ECU does nothing for performance. That resets the STFT and LTFT's, which only affect regular driving, not PE. Great thaty it did something, but you have no clue what it is doing, meaning if it is good or bad for the motor.
FU Tuning
Better performance? How could that be bad?
as with all these sensor mods yes they work by increaseing fuel consumption. and can gain hp
the iat sensor mods , and runing potentiometer/ variable resistor on the ect,
knock reatard, and gap setting with indexing on plugs.
the iat & ect mod will gain u horsepower proven fact but this increases fuel while advanceing timing but if u dont adequate air supply or efficient spark generation, then this will cause your car to run extremely rich
thus injuring your engine.
knock sensor---- yes this eliminate timing retard if and when its done at peak condition of your timeing if not
u could be running this on say (estimated loss) 8 degrees of retard and will not gain u horsepower and if something does go wrong with the rotating assemble and its disabled ur engine will done and cooked faster than a mcdonalds hamberger
spark plugs- over gaping your plugs - shortens duration of the spark
creates colder spark
will not gain horsepower
gaping your plugs correctly will result in sharp distinctive spark and
take alot less power to reach the tip of the plug
the least amount of work your plug has to do to create a spark the
greater the internal combustion will be
indexing your plugs - places spark in direct path of the intake valves
OVER TIGHTENING THE PLUGS INTO THE HEAD
and this can result in damageing the very expensive aluminum head
not worth 4 hp
so in the end ill stick with spending reatard amounts of money to gain 1 whp and in the end not risk damageing my engine that has seen more of my personal time than my familly has
also if they mods are so destend to be great they why is it that u see no major companies makeing products for these type of mods. and secondly why are none of the top nhra and other various profensional racers and engineered engine designers and builders not doing any kind of this stuff to engines
if it start the next day it can be driven harder
I'm guessing my NGK Iridiums and my AEM are an adequate supply and a good spark then, and all plugs are gapped to what they're suppose to be.
Why wouldn't major compaines use this?.. because variables change, and with this kind of mod its not a put on mod and have more power, its a temporary mod, In my opinion and assumption.
Quote:
the iat & ect mod will gain u horsepower proven fact
Where is it a proven fact? People think what works on one type of car works on all cars. (example what works on a honda work on a J).
Thing is that is not always true when it comes to these trick mods. Going based off what
we know for sure different IAT temps does not add, or take away fuel.
FU Tuning
So your saying that your car doesn't run faster when its colder outside?
Yes, when it's ACTUALLY COLDER, because the air and fuel are more dense!
Are
you that dense that you don't understand this and think just because the sensor is tricked to read colder that the air actually
is colder?!
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
No reason to yell or get fancy and italicize your font bud. Tuesday I will make runs with the resistor on and off, about 3 or 4 each.
Why don't you take a N/A car and try this at the drag strip before you all talk @!#$ about it.
all i know is every fuel injected car ive ever owned has gotten worse mileage during the winter (colder months). why this is? because the iat sensor reads the colder air and sends that reading to the ecu... the ecu then adjusts fuel accordingly to keep the damn thing running. its like a reverse choke. instead of choking off the air, it dumps more fuel.
my 95 grand prix is a prime example. i have put over 100,000 miles on it over the past 4 years. its daily driven. it usually gets around 240-260 miles per tank in the winter. during the summer months, it gets much, much better at around 300-320 miles per tank. it happens every single year and i change absolutely nothing. and no i do not let it run for 15 minutes every morning or before any time i drive it. my driving styles do not change. i get in and drive away.
Every time I scream "Release", I mean it, you know it. I feel the day. Black 7.
Exactly, and people on MPG forums that try to get the best MPG out of their cars use resistors that do the opposite, they tell their IAT that it is hot outside, to use less fuel and result in higher MPG.
And it works, they tell their IAT its about 200 degrees or so and they get about 3 MPG better, look it up.
Quote:
-40 77k-109k
-20 39k-53k
0 21k-27k
20 11k-15k
40 6.6k-8.4k
60 3.9k-4.5k
80 2.4k-2.7k
100 1.5k-1.7k
120 .98k-1.1k
140 .65k-.73k
160 .43k-.48k
180 .30k-.33k
200 .22k-.24k
220 .16k-.17k
248 .10k-.11k
284 .06k-.68k
I kept everything in terms of Kilo-ohms....so obvously
.65k is 650 ohms, .06k is 60 ohms, etc. as you get down to the
decimals numbers begin to get rounded to the nearest hundreth (.0x)
John Higgins wrote:Quote:
the iat & ect mod will gain u horsepower proven fact
Where is it a proven fact? People think what works on one type of car works on all cars. (example what works on a honda work on a J).
Thing is that is not always true when it comes to these trick mods. Going based off what we know for sure different IAT temps does not add, or take away fuel.
Says all the rice boys that predominate every inch and subforum of Jbody.org
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