Bump, to keep in on first page.....
Peace
might want to stand that eagle crank up on its end. its not good for a crank to lay down like that, it could warp it. thats y all shops have cranks standing on end. might want to stand it up soon tho
Bonnett wrote:might want to stand that eagle crank up on its end. its not good for a crank to lay down like that, it could warp it. thats y all shops have cranks standing on end. might want to stand it up soon tho
that would be my understanding as well...
thanks for the info on the crank guys I'll be fixing that problem soon.
in other news, I've begun wiring up the skwirl and figuring out how I'm going to run the electrical in the car. I was debating whether I should keep the blower motor and HVAC controls/sub system in tact (again since the car is being pretty much retired from everyday use) but decided against it (the blower really helps on those super hot/cold days and is a nice addition to my 2/65 a/c system (aka power windows)
so the HVAC controls are getting relocated with the face pointed down, and pushed back underneath the center cluster (just above the front tray of the center console) so I don't have to do anything to relocate it like extend wires or the like, and it'll still be readily accessible from the driver seat.
the HVAC slot will be filled with a carbon fiber panel with toggle switches to control various functions of the car's new equipment (fuel pump slow-down override switch, fuel pump master switch, launch control arming switch, ignition power switch, and any others I run across that may be necessary.)
I was toying with the idea of having a master 'race mode' switch that would disable the fuel pump slowdown, and arm the launch control button on the steering wheel. I could also tie it into a 'scramble boost' boost controller that would increase max boost pressure in a given gear or given speed automatically.. essentially taking the skwirl off the leash and letting it run at maximum power.
I need to keep the BCM because it makes the electrical connections for the blinkers, stop lights, headlights, etc and I don't feel like rewiring these things. I've only eliminated the factory ecu (all car sub-systems work without the ecu installed.. I've tried it on my 04 and everything works so I'm happy that the ecu isn't required for those functions).
I began by extending the 10/12 gauge wires from the relay box (the one I've relocated to my glove box). During this I ran out of the wire i bought, and realized that if I went about doing it the way I anticipated (butt connectors) I'd never be able to remove the relay box if I ever need to service the wires, or get to the backside of it.. so I'm ordering spade connectors for the 10 and 12 gauge wires, and I'm looking at a 12 pin deutsch connector for the smaller wires.. that way I can unplug the connections and remove the relay box if I ever need to, for whatever reason.
once I get that hooked up, tested, and functioning properly I'm going to start wiring up the headlights, and then the wipers. All the while building the new engine wiring harness to be as simple, small, and hidden as possible.
I don't anticipate being finished with this until the end of Jan because of the money situation with the holidays, and weather concerns. But the wiring is well underway.. I've stripped out everything unnecessary and organized everything I'm keeping.
the stereo is completely eliminated.. I'm not sure if I'll be putting it back in either (I'd probably leave it off a majority of the time anyway, not to mention I anticipate the car to be quite loud so a stereo would be kind of pointless)
Bonnett wrote:might want to stand that eagle crank up on its end. its not good for a crank to lay down like that, it could warp it. thats y all shops have cranks standing on end. might want to stand it up soon tho
If a crankshaft can handle the loading and unloading of a motor turning 7k+ rpm and the heat cycling of the running motor, why couldn't it handle lying on it's side? At the shop I worked at we stood them on end to save floor space.
BTW, Peej, still looking great! I like the innovation you've shown with this build.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, December 15, 2008 5:39 PM
Sooo is there going to be a big party for when this thing finally fires?
MadJack wrote:Bonnett wrote:might want to stand that eagle crank up on its end. its not good for a crank to lay down like that, it could warp it. thats y all shops have cranks standing on end. might want to stand it up soon tho
If a crankshaft can handle the loading and unloading of a motor turning 7k+ rpm and the heat cycling of the running motor, why couldn't it handle lying on it's side? At the shop I worked at we stood them on end to save floor space.
BTW, Peej, still looking great! I like the innovation you've shown with this build.
there is a huge difference in the weight on a crank with it being laid on its side and all its weight on it with no support or being in a motor with equal weight distribution and all the load on the bearings and the assembly completely balanced. way different forces acting there and the crank is resting on its closest points to its center in the motor where as laying on its side outside the motor its sitting on its points farthest from the center. hope that helps out
Tinkles wrote:Sooo is there going to be a big party for when this thing finally fires?
I'm pretty sure I'll have a video camera setup on a tripod during the last hour or so before I get ready for the startup. i'm nearing the home stretch on getting the engine to run (I still need to finish the brakes though) but getting the engine to run in itself isn't that far off.
programming the spectre will be a bit of a task on its own.. I'm lucky that I have base line tables to go off of (thanks HPT) but there are other spectre-specific tables that I have to basically take a very cautious trial and error approach to it... and this is only when I get the wiring finished and trouble-shot.
also, run times for the skwirl will be limited since its exhaust at the moment only consists of a header with a 3" collector into a downpipe to a 3" resonator and.. thats it. It terminates directly under the floor. I may connect this temporarily to the new muffler section of the exhaust I'm still designing and planning.
But until I get the muffler, new pipes and turndown it means its going to be pretty F-ing loud while running. But it'll serve its purposes for now (testing, startup tuning, and maybe even a short test run up and down the road in front of my house after I finish the brakes).
pj will you build me one next....lol
i already ordered this one:
12 pin connector for 14-16gauge wire
That works too, figured I would put that up and possibly help a little
Keep us posted.
^ thanks for the suggestion man =D
on another 'unknown' i'm beginning to worry about the F23 liking the LSJ bottom end. If it doesn't interface correctly, my only way out may be to do an F35 swap.
I'd prefer not to do that.. keep your fingers crossed guys.
Does the Lsj bottom bolt up to the 5spd getrag in the cavalier?
Didnt feel like reading through 50 pages.
If so, I found a place that sells the full lsj engine, minus the harness and stuff. for under $2k
Dustin Slaven wrote:Does the Lsj bottom bolt up to the 5spd getrag in the cavalier?
Didnt feel like reading through 50 pages.
If so, I found a place that sells the full lsj engine, minus the harness and stuff. for under $2k
Good for you, read and go DIAF
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, December 16, 2008 1:55 PM
Tinkles wrote:Dustin Slaven wrote:Does the Lsj bottom bolt up to the 5spd getrag in the cavalier?
Didnt feel like reading through 50 pages.
If so, I found a place that sells the full lsj engine, minus the harness and stuff. for under $2k
Good for you, read and go DIAF
Fixed it for ya and x22000000
Why do you lazy ass people search sometimes. then admit you don't search.......use the button its works well.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, December 16, 2008 2:31 PM
Dustin Slaven wrote:Does the Lsj bottom bolt up to the 5spd getrag in the cavalier?
Didnt feel like reading through 50 pages.
If so, I found a place that sells the full lsj engine, minus the harness and stuff. for under $2k
its not 50 pages its only 23. Skim thru the thread and look for my posts and just read those. I try to keep them on topic for anyone who wants to find out the information.
the answer is in this thread, along with potential problems. Even has pictures.
its within the first 10 pages or so.
why are you keeping the wipers?
Are you scared of the changes coming? The answer is on the inside.
you never know when rain will come out of nowhere.. in which case, I'd retreat to the garage at home asap.
the skwirl is a half step below a race car.. lights, indicators and wipers are needed for me
almost everything else is expendable.
Tsk tsk tsk..
The g/f and a squggee can take the place of the wipers. Hand signals and flashlights can replace the indicators and lights.
They are not NEEDED.....
well.. maybe not the wipers. but I'm definitely keeping the lights and indicators. and especially my horn.
I live in NJ you know.
Yea, NJ. The only thing that prevents PA from having a beach(Lake Erie doesnt count).
if you had to do the F35 swap I wouldnt see that as a bad thing, overall its a better tranny than the F23
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
