2200 weak points? - Performance Forum

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2200 weak points?
Sunday, October 12, 2008 6:30 PM
i want to p&p my head and put a turbo on my 00 cavy 2200 5spd but i cant seem to find any info about the engines weak point and what they break at and i really dont feel like being a dumb ass and just throwing a turbo on it and breaking all my internals. so does any one know the weak points and what there breaking limit is? Thanks

Re: 2200 weak points?
Monday, October 13, 2008 5:55 AM
usually the weakest point in a turbo setup on the 2200 is the tuner.

Other than that, I would say the rods are what tend to break first.





Re: 2200 weak points?
Monday, October 13, 2008 10:48 AM
The head can be the choking point on power, but if it's ported right it won't be. But then, at a later point (When the power produced becomes so great) it becomes the breaking point, if it's not cryo-treated. Depending on the dynamic compression that results from the boost levels run & the amount of air that actually enters the cylinders under such boost levels, you may not need to seek having that done to your Double-Deuce's head. But if you're seeking to make record-like numbers of power with it, then cryo-treating is highly recommended.

And the rods are usually best replaced with Eagle H-beams, if you're goin' that "record" route. And tuning becomes super-critical on a turbo car that'll see street duty. Heck, even on full-race turbo cars it becomes super-critical, since you're basically pushing the engine to effectively critical levels of stress. But at less it builds to them with a turbo (As it spools-up), as opposed to with nitrous, which is just a big shock to it.

Your best bet is to get a "low"-tune prefabbed turbo kit, and run (without water/methanol injection) 4-5psi of boost at max, and a "premium" level of octane fuel (About 93 points or higher) to prevent detonation. And don't fiddle with the mechanical parts of the kit! It's a carefully tuned piece designed by skilled builders (Typically) to work with an engine built to a certain degree internally without causing damage.

Oh, hey... What's your oil pressure like? If it's peak during warm engine operation at 3000rpm is less than what the service manual calls for (65-74psi), than you should consider at least adding a '90-'93 J-car 2.0L pump (Melling P/N: M98) to get the pressure up right (peak@3000rpm: 80psi). Oiling (and cooling) make the life & death of an engine as it operates. And turbo life is critically dependant on good oil pressure. So if the stock pump can't provide the cushion the bearing will seek under boost, or the turbo doesn't get enough (Especially when it's spooled-up!), you're looking at a large number of parts waiting to go into meltdown... real soon. In fact, maybe installing that pump is something you should do first before you add anything more.,. Especially if it's a turbo.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".
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