whats his car run in the 1/4?
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
dont know. hopefully next spring.
z yaaaa wrote: BUT i still think numbers dont mean jack shiit. putting said power to the ground and getting it down a 1/4 mile is really all that matters in my book. and pauls car proves this time and time again.
So what does Pauls car prove?
me = devils advocate
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, October 26, 2007 8:20 AM
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
well since the general concensus that street racing is retarded on here, i guess nothing.
QBE (Aka Phil No More Boost) wrote:Wade Jarvis wrote:I a m really thinking it has something to do with dyno opreator error. I have driven it and the differene between untuned and tuned had to have been 20whp. This just does not add up. I mean he has a 10.5-1 compression ratio. Sure bigger cams wont hurt. The only thing I see hurting his performance or holding him back is the AFR being a litle rich. I am thinking an AFR of about 13.0 would help noticably but still numbers this low just do not add up with what has been done to his engine.
so your ass can tell the difference between 12 and 20 whp? damn I need you to come out here for butt dynos.
Rule of thumb is that a good NA Tune targets the afr around 13.5. Thats what i have learned from a lot of the reading I have done about afr's and boost. I Read a lotwhen I was learning about fuel systems/injectors/afr reccomendations. Is he seeing knock? if not advance some timing.
I am not some internet tool I know a butt dyno is in now way accurate or proof of anythinhg. The difference between his car untuned versus tuned felt to me like night and day almost as big of a difference as my car before and after the supercharger. Notice I don't say from what I felt your car has xxx horsepower.
With that said I plan on hitting up the dyno shop near me most likely next month. They have a brand new Superflow dyno and an opereator who took the time to learn how to operate evrery function it has. They use a reflective strip and an optical sensor for reading RPM accuratly.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Wade Jarvis wrote:My opinion was formed based on the trouble he had using HPT an also that he used the wires going into the IDI cover to get the tach signal which proved the last time I was at a dyno shop to be a poor location.
cliping the tach signal wire around the IDI wires is the BEST place for a tach signal on our cars (unless you do the remote coil swap). On every 2.4 I've ever taken to the dyno, or watched being dynoed, thats were we went for the signal, except this last dyno on my car, since I had the remote coils, they used a plug wire.
the guy's trouble using HPT seemed like a BS excuse because he just didnt want to bother with a cavalier. It wasnt untill I put down my turbo numbers that anyone at the dyno I went to really cared. Then they where all about it.
The dyno of my car n/a was at a 11.0-12.0 A/F ratio...... so if I had leaned it out some, opened up the exhaust a little, and played with the spark timing more...... 180-190hp? Pauls problem could be any combo of parts used.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
SpeedRacerZ wrote
cliping the tach signal wire around the IDI wires is the BEST place for a tach signal on our cars (unless you do the remote coil swap). On every 2.4 I've ever taken to the dyno, or watched being dynoed, thats were we went for the signal, except this last dyno on my car, since I had the remote coils, they used a plug wire.
Interesting both places I dynoed my car at had a problem reading from the wires going in. They said something about the low amount of current running through the wire making it hard to read from there and that plug wires have a much stonger electromagnetic feild around them. Last time I was at the dyno I called shifted and he told me to use a pin on the computer. That worked out real well except that I had a paperclip jameed into that pin and a long peice of wire going from there to the dyno machine. They did not use the thing that goes over the plug wire.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Quote:
Pauls problem could be any combo of parts used.
Used parts? only thing that is use would be the cams and every lobe measured correct. Unless you just talking about the part combo I have.
I guess if 167whp is all it has i guess that what it has. lol
Paul, are you happy with the car?
If so......numbers mean nothing.
Cadwz24 wrote:Paul, are you happy with the car?
If so......numbers mean nothing.
ding ding ding, thread over.
well, just look at the skwirl, 140-145 horse power, and paul car has 167, probably weighs a bit more, so I think it should run mid 13's.
PJ can drive like a madman tho
Either way they both have the lightweight driver mod
^^^haha, yah that always helps too!
i suffer from a MAJOR lack of lightweight driver mod. is that posibly why paul barely beat me when he had the 155whp?
I say throw some HO cams in it and see what happens. You have all the hardware paul. It will take us no more than 3 hours to do the swap. Throw a bigger TB in there and we will see whats going down. I spose you will have to tune it again, but maybe brandon will go in on the HPT.
Quote:
I say throw some HO cams in it and see what happens. You have all the hardware paul. It will take us no more than 3 hours to do the swap. Throw a bigger TB in there and we will see whats going down. I spose you will have to tune it again, but maybe brandon will go in on the HPT.
Ill bet you exactly this would make a difference. Look whos at the top of the LD9 top HP list (Karo) , compare mod lists, .... the big difference is cams and tb, as well as some tuning probably.
"Go Before Show Yo."
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And if all else fails, it is all forged so we will throw a progressive 150 shot and go really fast.
Ho cams have .410" lift right? The JBP's you have in now paul have .377" maximum lift. When we checked clearances on your car we measured a clearance of at least .060" cold. The ho's have .033" more lift, leaving you with a .027" clearance. I can't remember what z machine recommended as far as having clearances, but that seems like a close call. As everything heats up it expands, making your shiny ss valves get really close to your forged goodness. Anybody else have opinions on this?
Hell, maybe we should just fab you up some ITB's and see where that gets ya... I will call you about it tonight.
bmxludwig wrote:Hell, maybe we should just fab you up some ITB's and see where that gets ya... I will call you about it tonight.
ITB's wont help much if the cams still suck, try HO ones, u can get them cheap. ITB's after u figure out the main prob for sure
gmanz24 wrote:bmxludwig wrote:Hell, maybe we should just fab you up some ITB's and see where that gets ya... I will call you about it tonight.
ITB's wont help much if the cams still suck, try HO ones, u can get them cheap. ITB's after u figure out the main prob for sure
We aren't sure if the Ho's will drop right in with the HC Forged Wiseco's. The HO's have a LOT more lift than pauls units. ITB's will be fun to make, and we can see if they have some potential.
Quote:
We aren't sure if the Ho's will drop right in with the HC Forged Wiseco's. The HO's have a LOT more lift than pauls units. ITB's will be fun to make, and we can see if they have some potential.
There was a ITB LD9 intake manifold on ebay a couple of weeks ago. I can email them to see if he still has it
Jason
99 Z24 Supercharged
157hp/171tq - NA
LD9 for Life
That would be great Jason.
