hey, alright, heres the deal. I got a 2.4L engine in my Z24 that im wantin to rebuild. Its got 153,000 miles on it and by the time i do the build, which will be probly at the end of may, it will easily have 160,000+. So heres my question. Im lookin for a good reliable engine becuase i gotta go to college still, but would also like some power increase. My plans so far include:
port and polished head
stainless valves
new set of cams with a mild lift increase
56 mm throttle body
Bore cylinders .40 over
9:1 Pistons
and of course all the new gaskets and stuff as in a normal run of the mill engine rebuild
Now, ive already got a 4-1 Header, hi-flow cat, 2.25" exhaust, TB spacer, and Short Ram Intake. I was hoping to have the engine at about 190-200 hp, is that too much to ask out of that build and those parts? or is there anything i could add to that that im not thinking of?
http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/bruski/thumbnail_personal_pic.jpg
My first two questions that come to mind are:
1 - Why would you bore it out that much?
2 - Why are you dropping static compression? I'm getting the jist that you want to achieve these goals N/A in which case that avenue doesn't make sense.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
i was going to run 10.5:1 forged wiseco pistons but the engine isnt necessarily going to stay N/A. A 75 shot nitrous kit is possibly in the future and i was told a 9:1 comp ratio would work better for that. And as far as boring out, i made an error on my typing, it would be .040 over, but possibly might only do a .020 bore, what do you think?
http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/bruski/thumbnail_personal_pic.jpg
Ah I got the jist you meant .040....
My question is why did you want to bore it that big? Did you have an idea in mind or did somebody put it into your head? (People have different reasons for things)
As for dropping compression with Nitrous... nitrous enters the engine quite cold... compression is dropped to avoid pre-ignition and detonation (in the presence of heat). Under the right circumstances on a 75 shot I would personally assume an engine would love higher compression.... mind you I do not know much about building a nitrous motor so I am saying this with a huge grain of salt. I'm sure somebody more knowledgable in that aspect can chime in for me.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
if your going nitrous then sweetness is right, a higher compression piston is what you are looking for. In doing so yoru give the motor better N/A power and more power on the nitrous end. If anything i would get stock compression forged stuff.
i was told by a friend of mine to bore it that big, and when he told me i actually had the same response you did, seems a little much, my original plan was to just go .020 over. seems plenty enough to me, he was also the one who advised me to go with a lower compression. But ive also been kickin around the idea of a turbo, which in that case i dont really want to go with a 10.5:1 compression, but more likely ill be goin with nitrous...for the time being anyways. a couple other things i would be adding to the build were:
eagle rods
79 gram wrist pins
Federal mogul rod bearings and main bearings
and fuel pressure regulator
ive also thought about doing a 2.3L HO intake swap, is it worth it?
http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/bruski/thumbnail_personal_pic.jpg
If you want a motor with around 10.5:1 CR temporarily while you are NA, and still want to use the 9:1 pistons.......I know a way
-
"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
Quote:
ive also thought about doing a 2.3L HO intake swap, is it worth it?
people that have done it says it well worth it. im hopefully going to do it soon if i can ever locate a CC bracket.
well if you want a NA/nitrous setup then higher compression pistions is the way to go. for boost (turbo, charger) lower is best.
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
Brian Whalen wrote:If you want a motor with around 10.5:1 CR temporarily while you are NA, and still want to use the 9:1 pistons.......I know a way
??
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
Brian Whalen wrote:If you want a motor with around 10.5:1 CR temporarily while you are NA, and still want to use the 9:1 pistons.......I know a way
probaly the 086 head swap
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
That's what I was thinking....
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
.040 over bore is not that much.
Plenty of people on here have done it.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
yeah chris... i dont understand... whats so bad about boring .040 over? i have a 2.4 block thats bored that much and its fine...
the only thing i can think of is maybe weak cylinder walls? but on an n/a setup i dont see a problem.
UFlip06 said it best: Just look underneath the engine and if you see big hairy balls it's a 2.4 Twin Cam, if they're shaved it's an Ecotec and if you see nothing it's a 2200!
Why go .040" over? It's not like you are going to get anymore power by going that much more over. Think of it this way, if anything ever happens to this motor and you need to rebuild it again in the future, and you are already .040" over, the block is junk. You can't bore it anymore. If you go .020" over, and something happens, it leaves room so it can be bored again, and you don't have to throw out the block.
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
99redz24 wrote:Brian Whalen wrote:If you want a motor with around 10.5:1 CR temporarily while you are NA, and still want to use the 9:1 pistons.......I know a way
probaly the 086 head swap
Indeed the 086 head swap
-
"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
but if somethings happen, and go .040 over, you will need new pistons which can cost arround 400-500$ and a junkyard block would cost about 100$ + machining which will end up cheaper than new pistons.... just my .02$
Magik1109 wrote:but if somethings happen, and go .040 over, you will need new pistons which can cost arround 400-500$ and a junkyard block would cost about 100$ + machining which will end up cheaper than new pistons.... just my .02$
Good luck finding a block that is in good condition. They are becoming harder and harder to come by. Around my area at least, I called around everywhere and I found only one available for $450. I don't know where the hell you can get a non-damaged 2.4L block for $100. Not to mention the cost to machine it, clean it, check it for cracks, etc. Also, any $ invovlved in shipping or transportation costs. And if you take into consideration that the 2.3L oil pump swap was done, that is easily another couple hundred dollars worth of labor to the block. All of that sure seems to be a hassle to me. Just keep it at .020" to be safe.
What's the point of going .040" over when there is no large benefit to it, and takes away your safety net in case there is a problem? Seems like a stupid idea to me...Bigger isn't always better.
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
yeah, i understand the 2.3l oil pump argument. on my engine, i did only .020 just in case because of the oil pump swap. but even there, the junkyard where i bought my block, told me it was 250$ CND for the block only or 100 for the whole engine LOL!!!! i guess they were charging labor to get it apart. and in top of that, they gave me the engine with all the stuff on it, like intake mani, exhaust mani, alt, ignition, a/c, etc. oil pump machining and overbore and cleaning cost me around 250$cnd or less so thats about 350cnd for the whole thing which is about 300US....
SweetnessGT wrote:Exactly what luke said. .040 is the max you can go - if something happens and you scar the cylinders a bit you have nothing left to resurface them with....
The power gains of .020 more to me are more than offset by the precautionary measure of having something left in the case of an accident, pre ignition or detonation.
But that's just me! 
-Chris-
wouldnt call the block junk at .040" over, The race engine we are doing is .080" over and there is plenty of meat left if i ever have to do something down the road. however now its all about custom pistons, etc..
_______________________
** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**
alright, ill be going with just a .020 bore cuz i was just as skeptical as it seems every other person is here. i never understood the point of going .040 over either but the guy at the shop here said he would recommend it. Another thing id like to know is if anyone knows of any chip or computer programmer besides HPtuners. If not ill just drop the $500 on HPtuners and call it a done deal with somethin i know will work rather than the Venom 400 junk. Once again the guy at the shop said those are supposed to work great on an engine that has a decent build to it, but everywhere ive read around here has said Venom and Jet crap dont do crap.
http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/bruski/thumbnail_personal_pic.jpg
Good choice with the .020" bore. I'm sure you'll be happy in the end.
As far as HPTuners goes, get it. There isn't antyhing out there even comparable, and more than likely it is the only thing that will EVER be out for out cars, short of a standalone system. I could rant on and on about Venom and Jet crap, but that would open another whole bag of worms. Simply put, they do absolutely nothing for our cars. I'll leave it at that. Buy HPTuners, and you will never look back.
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
at 0.040 the block is not junk. Buy a set of sleeves and start over again. You can get almost any size of sleeves.
Gilles
2.3 Ho
what about an AEM stand alone, and revert it back to ODB 1. Just a thought. I think it would have better tuning capabilities than HPT.
Scott
When I boost, you boost, we boost
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You have been banned from NEJBODY.
You've displayed wayyy too many acts of pushing people to their limits.
It's never cool to tear people down for what they want to do.
NEJBODY is a team. We're not the same as JBO where everyone bashes on eachother.
I'm surprised you show up to our meets after half of the things you say on here.
