ok what can all do to lighten my car other than remove passenger seat, back seat, and spare tire . i dont want to wreck my interior ether . thanks paul
Anything that you can unbolt. You can remove all your carpet or the insulation under your carpet, the trunk carpet etc.
Just remember, lightening your car will only do so much. You have to have power behind it to make a difference... It's called your Power to Weight Ratio.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
NJHK did the same thing with removing minor insulation and what not
Also something i did only because they were useless(as in not working, malfunction) was i pulled out my passenger airbag.. thats a good 10-15lbs there... then u can get a racing steering wheel ditching the driverside airbag and add another 10-15lbs with that.. Now something i did was since i had no passenger air bag.. i am rewrapping my dash, well there is a metal bracket attached to the dash to guide and hold in the airbag.. i just took that out and that was another 10lbs im sure.. But removing the backseat is prolly the main one i have done not for the whole weight reduction but because im changing the whole interior.. but when driving at high speeds with ur window down you'll really feel the drag of air also getting trapped in your trunk.. also upgrading your front seats to lighter racing seats. Every little bit will count.. but don't expect to get a big gain out of little things.. People also seem to forget.. and this is sumthing i'm working on right now... When your driving you have a driver.. you.. so if u can loose some weight that also helps. Not alot of people realize that or want to do it probably.. but every little bit counts.. don't kill yourself about it but if you can loose some weight you have good reason now lmao, prolly if ur really serious in racing and weight reduction that someone will do that..
fiberglass fenders hood trunk, front and rear bumper covers
how much do you weigh, and can you lose any weight?
If you want to preserve your interior you'll need to look at the driver for weight reduction.
Insulation under the carpet, Air Conditioning, lighter weight rims, run small/thin tires in the rear when drag racing are few possibilities. Removing the duct work behind the dash.
Drive and passenger air bag removal is NOT reccomended if you value your own life and that of your passengers.
-Chris
I ripped everything out of my interior and I mean EVERYTHING, a/c delete, removed the fuel rail cover, heat shields, lightweight racing seats, and 4 point belts instead of stock belts, noticeably lighter and noticeably more responsive.
Quote:
every 100 lbs is a 1/10 of a second
not in llghtweight 4cyl cars that dont make alot of power, when i rode with my friend down the strip in his talon his times were slower by about half a second consitently. i weigh about 170.
15.4 @ 89mph
I lost 25lbs. by just not working out anymore. I found no point to, since I'm not in sports and I have a girlfriend. And the carpet + insulation weighs more then you think. And someone told me for our lighter and weaker (4cyl.) cars, every 100lbs. can lessen it by 1/4 a second.? Because think about, you can only take so much out from 2600lbs.. well that's how much an Eco is. It does make sense no? Going from 2600 to 2200 (losing about 16-18% of your cars weight) and taking off a second on your qaurter mile.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2208703
2 posts up ^^. excactly
15.4 @ 89mph
I had a buddy ride with me at the track, he weighs approx. 150lbs and i only ran a tenth slower with him in the car. just my experience with it.
the whole 100lbs = 1/10th is an aproximate. it however was established during the muscle car days when the engines were huge and much more capable of moving alot of weight. in Sport Compact Car a few years ago they played with a sentra (?2001?, 2.0L)and they completely gutted the interior and trunk. they took off 274lbs and took 1/2 second off thier 1/4 mile run. its a variable deal but a good way to guestimate and bench race.
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Quote:
I had a buddy ride with me at the track, he weighs approx. 150lbs and i only ran a tenth slower with him in the car. just my experience with it.
your also making what 100 horse over stock, so for your car the rule would apply. for example look at a bike that weighs 300 lbs and runs high 10s slap 500 lbs on that 5/10s according to the rule. but really the bike would be running seconds slower.the less something wieghs and the less power it has the more sensitve to weight it is.
15.4 @ 89mph
deltron3030 wrote:Quote:
I had a buddy ride with me at the track, he weighs approx. 150lbs and i only ran a tenth slower with him in the car. just my experience with it.
your also making what 100 horse over stock, so for your car the rule would apply. for example look at a bike that weighs 300 lbs and runs high 10s slap 500 lbs on that 5/10s according to the rule. but really the bike would be running seconds slower.the less something wieghs and the less power it has the more sensitve to weight it is.
The last sentence.. well put. Totally agree.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2208703
Ian Clark wrote:the whole 100lbs = 1/10th is an aproximate. it however was established during the muscle car days when the engines were huge and much more capable of moving alot of weight. in Sport Compact Car a few years ago they played with a sentra (?2001?, 2.0L)and they completely gutted the interior and trunk. they took off 274lbs and took 1/2 second off thier 1/4 mile run. its a variable deal but a good way to guestimate and bench race.
The article you're referring to came out of the August 2002 issue of Sport Compact Car... The vehicle was a 2001 Nissan Sentra SE w/ the SR20DE. The guy had wheels, body kit, etc and little performance mods.
Baseline:
Weight - 2762 lbs
1/4 Mile - 16.3 @ 84 mph
60-foot - 2.9 seconds
0-60 - 8.6 seconds
By replacing his 19" "dubs" with 15" Infinity wheels, they got:
Weight - 2707 lbs
1/4 Mile - 16.0 @ 85.5 mph
60-foot - 2.8 seconds
0-60 - 8.1 seconds
Stripping most of the interior:
Weight - 2434 lbs
1/4 Mile - 15.5 @ 82.5 mph
60-foot - 2.7 seconds
0-60 - 7.5 seconds
They started getting crazy from there, ripping off all the engine accessories, removing the entire exhaust and the bottom of the stock airbox, removing fenders, bumpers, doors, even the roof and eventually got:
Weight - 1674 lbs
1/4 Mile - 14.3 @ 93.2 mph
60-foot - 2.6 seconds
0-60 - 5.8 seconds
The point is, when they were doing basic stuff, they removed the oversized wheels and most of the interior and dropped 328 lbs and 0.8 seconds off their 1/4 mile time. Doing the math, every 100 lbs dropped the car's ET by .24 seconds.
Now, as a previous owner of a VERY stripped down ( only one seat, no door panels.. very ghetto ) 1.6 liter sohc suzuki esteem i know that weight stripping helps a LOT, but only so much. Once you start shedding hundreds of pounds, you gain a lot of torque but not much total horsepower. It helps a lot for little japanese engines that have more horsepower than torque, but on our chevy's there is way more torque than horsepower typically, so your gains are gonna be smaller than say.. if you were stripping a civic. I'd say taking out the spare tire, jack/wrench, and the passenger side seat is reasonable. If you're really crazy other gains are to be had by taking out the airbags, AC ( don't try it without reading into how it's possible or your @!#$ could blow up or you could be releasing all sorts of nasty chemicals in the environment possibly harming yourself in the process ), and by not having heavy ass 20 inch rims.
Oh some other small gains:
1. keep the winshield wiper resovoir empty.
2. the stock airbox actually weighs a few more pounds than a cold air intake.
3. a full to the top tank of gas is heavy
4. the stock exhaust is heavy too.. certain custom mufflers can be lighter!
5. if you enjoy shoveling lard, this could increase the weight of the car too. hehe.
6. that 70 pound box that encases your two 15's could be a problem too.
just some ideas.
Sadly, no more..
Weight reductions not only help with your 1/4 time but with your braking and with your handling, it is very noticeable with braking though.
I think my ride lost some weight after going with coilovers - the oem struts are heavy as hell, I think I must have lost about 40 lbs.
Does anyone know the weight difference between between the oem hood and an oem sytle carbon fiber or fiberglass replacement? I'd like to do some mild weight reduction.
David Silva wrote:Once you start shedding hundreds of pounds, you gain a lot of torque but not much total horsepower. It helps a lot for little japanese engines that have more horsepower than torque, but on our chevy's there is way more torque than horsepower typically, so your gains are gonna be smaller than say.. if you were stripping a civic.
Sorry, I just have to point out that removing weight from anything other than the powertrain doesn't have any effect on an car's hp or tq. Lighter pistons & valvetrain, pullies & rims (for the most part, it depends on diameter as well, and where the weight is located on the wheel) can effectively increase power to the ground.
I assume you're referring to the fact that off-the-line power feels increased, which makes sense since acceleration=force/mass. Hence, reducing mass or increasing force will create a greater acceleration. However, try cruising at 2000 rpm in 3rd and floor it...definately the same amount of torque as before
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
How much does a oem hood weigh in lbs?
98 j-body sedan
terry denomme wrote:How much does a oem hood weigh in lbs?
4 bolts and you can find out!
he has a 97 z....get a 2000+ starter,light flywheel,pulley,lighter rims/tires..etc.
