Alright I'm on the market to build up my motor. But as of right now I know I won't be able to boost not for atleast another year maybe 2 years Top. But I want to start getting the motor built up. The list I complied as of right now is as follows:

1 x AEM Blue Power Pulley
1 x ARP Head Stud Kit
1 x ARP Main Stud Kit
1 x Car Customs Competition Intake & Exhaust Valves
1 x Car Customs Front / Rear Transmission Mounts (5 Speed Manual)
1 x Eagle Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods
1 x Unorthodox Ultra S - Lightened Underdrive Black Crank Pulley
1 x B&M Short Throw Shifter

Also will be getting a gasket. I'm not sure on the H-Beams yet. I'm figuring the intake & Exhaust Valves would be a good step, allong with the head and main stud kits with a new gasket. and the 2 pulley's. I was considering getting a header. But I'm unsure because of the plans for going to a forced induction in the next year to 2 years. And don't know if it would be worth spending the money or just saving it for the turbo setup. I know a full exhaust at 2.25 possibly 2.5 wouldn't hurt anything with a hi-flow cat and muffler. Any suggestions on other possible parts. if that is a good start? or just plain Stupid. Looking for some input on what i should get. The money I have set aside will also be going for other parts as well.

FEEDBACK PLEASE!!!!

As well as the Cometic Head Gasket at .030 for now since I will be N/A

I'll let adam comment on this. we had a discussion about this earlier.

in fact, forgive the double post.. I'll quote him

Quote:

Well I will say something that no one has touched on...

The problem with building the motor outside of it being in the car is that you spend all this money on parts and a rebuild and to swap it in but are you sure you can afford another $3,000 or so for turbo parts and more for installation? I mean, it sounds simple and better to just do it while it's out but alot of times people who say to do that and attempt to do it alot of times neglect the project and/or just don't have the funds to even finish the turbo side of the project.

So my suggestion is, unless you are SURE you can afford to spend that much money in a reasonable amount of time, then don't spend your money on a motor build up. The reason I say don't build it up is because when you're building a motor for boost, you're usually doing these 2 things:

1. Doing a big port job like a 5 angle for example
2. Lowering the compression

Both things are not going to give you gains n/a...if you have no money for boost and you've spent all this money on a motor build and swap and you drive around with it in your car, you will feel like you've wasted money cause you will be slower.

This is just something to think about...just use your head before you start buying parts and a motor. Good luck.

I would change the rods and pistons way before changing the valves. Your pistons are the most important things in your engine when boosted. The rods can take around 300hp no problem(when well tuned). The pistons(witch are cast from company) will not last under detonation. That will cause you a bigger problem when it will let go.

Start with the rods and pistons then go from there. The valves don't need to be change.



Gilles
2.3 Ho

Thank You Inari...I was probably gonna copy and paste that too lol

But seriously, there are lots of people say "I'm gonna build the motor with stronger parts...pistons, rods, p & p head etc etc then turbo it" and you said it yourself, 2 years TOPS untill you get a turbo setup. Do you know how long 2 years is? Whos to say that you will still have your car in 2 years? Whos to say that you will be even financially stable to do buy a turbo kit even then?

I'm not trying to jinx you but just give you some insight. This is why I tell people to do the turbo build first then work on the motor cause alot of times they end up not being able to afford the motor work...so why not spend a few grand, be fast and not be able to afford a rebuild than spend 2-3 grand on rebuilding your motor (including labor), be slow and not be able to afford what your whole goal was originally 2 years down the line.

Just something to think about...



www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837

I actually read that. I'm looking at not just for boost but also stuff that will work Minus Boost...

I do all my own work. cept probably the head work, p&p. i'm don't forsee any problems with finacial. But anything can happen. Working in a very stable industry. The big reason I would rather do some building of the motor so I know I have a solid running motor rather than something that could still self-destruct. Because of abuse of previous owner. And with the money I don't intend on getting rid of the car. As I'm sure you are not intending on getting rid of your car after all the money you have invested in your vehicle.

I thought I had said something in there for being able to run N/A if for some reason I'm unable to go Forced. Hoping to find good non-forced induction/Forced induction. parts that will work reguardless of being n/a or forced. If that makes any sense

Entrapped Fury (aka Spence) wrote:I do all my own work. cept probably the head work, p&p. i'm don't forsee any problems with finacial. But anything can happen. Working in a very stable industry. The big reason I would rather do some building of the motor so I know I have a solid running motor rather than something that could still self-destruct. Because of abuse of previous owner. And with the money I don't intend on getting rid of the car. As I'm sure you are not intending on getting rid of your car after all the money you have invested in your vehicle.

Well say if you did turbo your car now, if you're running low amounts of boost and you're running the a good a/f ratio, detonation is very unlikely. It basically comes down how you tune it and maintain it. Yeah, you are safer with a built bottom end but is it neccesary, no.

Like said, if you're not sure which route you want to go, get 9.7:1 compression forged pistons.



www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837

Adam is correct with his piston Choise. If you are not 100% sure that you are gonna go FI, dont build the motor for it. You can always use a thinker head gasket and do a little bowl work on the heads to drop your compression down the road. But if you have a good running motor, then start with topend work and go from there. A ported and polished head and some valves with undercut stems would be a good start. but dont forget to do a set of cams while your at it. the head is commin off so the cams are already out. Later down the line you can always build a short block up and swap it in to compliment the setup you are running.


2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall

Where about would I want to check for cams? I've got the info for the valves, and gasket. cams I'm not positive of and a place to do p/p...I intend of going FI but is not a guarntee of when. But would like to get some work done to the motor just for some better performance. Might not be a hugh box load, but it is a good start. and probably catch some ppl off guard if they aren't expecting it I guess.

smack me now. haha. Just went back into the faq and found what i was looking for