I plan on boosting this engine in the future, but the timing jumped so it's getting built now.
Head will be rebuilt, full mild port/polish job to be done. I'm going to use a 2.3 HO flywheel. My dad says I should have the crank balanced to that flywheel, or I'm gonna tear the mains out. I plan on having the crank worked anyways, but I never heard of anyone tearin the mains out from changing a flywheel.
I plan on using 10:1 wiesco's with eagle H beams. Block will be tanked and honed. Any other recommendations while I got it all apart? I don't plan on going wild with my turbo setup. 10-15 psi on like a 60 a/r is all the play I need. After that it becomes too much of a PITA being in a convertible.
I thought of stainless valves but I don't plan on moving the rev limiter. I'm just gonna toss in a set of secret cams to compliment the head/header/exhaust
Input? I wanna make sure everything's been thought of
wow, your dad is old
Your engine is internally balanced (the flywheel is balanced seperately), nothing on the outside makes any difference, becuase they are all balanced seperately.
Also, stainless valves are good when you're dealing with increased cylinder temps from the boost...
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
running 15 psi at 10:1 compression is pretty stupid and i don't think you know what you are getting into there.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
I know it's a touch high, and I realize lower compression is better, but how many turbo eco's are out there doin rather well on 10:1 cast pistons? I won't go lower then 9 because I don't wanna lose all my power N/A, I would like to hit the 160-170whp range n/a
you can still have power in vacum under 9.5:1. If you want to run 15 psi, then 9:1 is your best bet and you can run that safely on pump gasoline. Unless you like paying for 110 every time you run more than about 6 psi
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
i say keep the SS valves
FACT : Statistics show that you are more likely to to be hit by lightning than to die street racing.
yes do not run that high on boost. that is asking for sooo many problems, when you could just do 9:1 pistons and not have any of those problems, then jsut run 93 octane and you should be fine, just dont put all that money into the eninge and end up doing it wrong in the end because you want more N/A power on a boosted car, because that does not make sense. if you are that worried about what i am guessing to be lower rpm power, then jsut get a little bit smaller turbo so you dont have as much lag time.
where have you guys had success with those valves?
Paul, is this a seperate motor you're working on already? Did you start this motor build already?
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Paul, go with 10:1 compression and use Alky injection. The real roblem will not be detonation but pressure. You better have a good head gasket. I've run my Ho with 10lbs of boost. My friend is running his W41 with a Paxton SC.
Retard the timming or run alky injection and let it fly.
Gilles
2.3 Ho
this is in my cavalier, not my sunfire, so its a separate build, car is silently sitting my heated garage begging to run/drive again. I plan on running a cometic head gasket. and I plan on having an MSD, but I have not considered alky injection. This is what I'm talking about a debate as to what I will be encountering
I think I'll just run nitrous...fewer worries
DropTopPaul wrote:I think I'll just run nitrous...fewer worries
popular misconception but not true
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Nitrous is not a hassle free deal, its also real easy to lean out your boost. Deff drop down to say a 9.5:1 compression, you will thank yourself. It gives you leeway in the future if you want run more boost. As stated you have an internally balanced motor so no worries about the flywheel, I was impressed with the weight savings of the Fidensa. Since you are planning boost stainless valves are deff a good upgrade. Good call on the cams with boost, we are very happy with Blacks car. As for the head, if you dont have someone to do it, or you dont wanna try it yourself, I do head work. If you are intrested just Pm me and we can discus a deal
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
I would also do the SS valves. Frees up some weight in the valve train, and usually stronger. I would also go with the 10:1 compression as well. Compression does not have as much to do with a turbo set-up as always said. Tuning is the key factory. With that said tuning devices for J's are far and few in between. Still can be done. If set-up right will make more power. As long as you do it right you will be fine.
FU Tuning
well my main concern is this, I've never installed a turbo, and although I'm somewhat knowledgable, I don't think I could do it on my own. Nitrous is a little simpler, although requires tuning as well. I'm having troubles deciding on a 100 shot wet, or maybe around 100 shot direct port, that way I'm a little safer going up in shot if I want to.
I'm not too horribly knowledgable with heads...whats the purpose of a SS valve vs a regular one? I realize lighter weight is always better, will I see HP gains? faster revving?
I don't plan on using the fidanza flywheel, I'm just gonna snag one out of a 2.3 HO, and use it with a 2.3 clutch/pressure plate. Direct bolt up, and I have one in my garage vs buying one for a couple hundred bucks
I like the idea of 10:1 compression, and I'm picking up a couple sponsers through club membership so I'll talk to them about discounted turbo pricing but I still have to worry about tuning the turbo. I've seen a lot of success with the Emanage from a few friends of mine in michigan on their setups (namely airtonics and kane5576) I'd rather have boost though just because there is no feel like spool
