Long time reader first time post... anyways here I go..
I have rebuild my motor with quite a few performance internals. I have a tick tick ticking noise which bugs me because it just got rebuilt. Now this ticking noise does quiet down a bit once the engine is nice and hot, but is slightly noticeable when idling(still when hot). When cold or warming up the ticking noise is more noticeable and ticks faster as I increase the RPMs. I normally run 5W30 GTX, but I was suggested to try using a 10W30 Full Synthetic Oil (castrol again). The Synthetic oil helped quiet down this same ticking noise. When I got my car back the very first time when the rebuilt was done the lifters did not purge properly and there was a worse ticking noise then I have now. Those bad lifters were changed for a new set free of charge and are installed now. I am also going to list my other mods and maybe some of you guys can suggest some solutions for this ticking
Engine was rebuilt with the following:
Wiseco 8:1 Compression Forged Pistons (Low comp. for my future boost)
JBP Stage 2 Camshaft
New Valves
Performance Valve Springs (Stiffer)
Lifters
Full Port and Polish on Cylinder Head 3-angle, Mill.
1.6:1 Magnum Roller Rockers
Chrome Molly Steel Retainers and Valve Locks
Clevette 77 Cam, Main, and Rod Bearings
..first of all, impressive build on the ohv. looking to do something like that myself, one day, we have the exact same car, lol.
2nd, the only advice i have is to take it back to wherever you had it rebuilt and ask them to get rid of it. im sure you paid a pretty penny for the parts and install, and if it were me, id take it back as many times as needed to insure it worked perfect. good luck, friend.
...don't hate!.. respect people that have talent, even if it is in something you don't like or understand.
I would bet money that its your timing chain and tensioner. Replaced the tensioner and chain with GM parts. I have found that the aftermarket stuff is inferior.
I see that you are using the Comp Magnum Roller Rockers. You now have an adjustable rocker arm and it sounds lie you may have a valve that was not properly lashed.
If you do the lash adjustment your-self, see
Howell Automotive's Crane Gold Race Roller Rockers for instructions how to set the valve lash.
If some one else is doing the work, have them recheck the lash and/or show them the how to listed above.
Also... if you are building for boost, why did you do 8:1 compression but an all motor stage 2 JBP cam? The Stage 1 and 2 cams are all motor grinds.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Well I didn;t have the cash for the supercharger and still wanted to drive the car. I was told by JBP that I can keep that Cam installed if I am using a super charger. They recommend that I switch the cam to that forced induction one if I was doing a turbo.
Stage 2 2.2L LN2 OHV (WHICH I HAVE)
Duration @ .050*, Valve Lift INTAKE 207*, 480 EXHAUST 212*, 490
Forced Induction 2.2L LN2 OHV
Duration @ .050*, Valve Lift INTAKE 195*, 456 EXHAUST 192*, 440
Can anyone tell me if I am going to have problems using this cam once I get my supercharger.???
Regardless the ticking is annoying.. any further ideas about the ticking.?
MadJack wrote:I see that you are using the Comp Magnum Roller Rockers. You now have an adjustable rocker arm and it sounds lie you may have a valve that was not properly lashed.
If you do the lash adjustment your-self, see Howell Automotive's Crane Gold Race Roller Rockers for instructions how to set the valve lash.
If some one else is doing the work, have them recheck the lash and/or show them the how to listed above.
Thanks for the info. I will have the shop double check to make sure that the valves are properly lashed.
Is there a chance that the springs are too stiff and I am geting a noise like that ( tick tick tick)??
I can later on go outside and record an audio file. maybe it will help you guys out to understand what I am hearing... I know audio files aren't the best way, but it's something.
I was thinking along the lines of another bad lifter, maybe bent rod, something wrong with a valve... someone suggested a timing chain or tensioner. Madjack suggested a lash cap adjustment.
I want to have a good list to go back to the shop with. I think these people at the shop hate to see me becasue I have come back many times, but they were legit reasons.
I really thank all you guys for giving me good suggestions.
224U2LUV wrote:Well I didn;t have the cash for the supercharger and still wanted to drive the car. I was told by JBP that I can keep that Cam installed if I am using a super charger. They recommend that I switch the cam to that forced induction one if I was doing a turbo.
Stage 2 2.2L LN2 OHV (WHICH I HAVE)
Duration @ .050*, Valve Lift INTAKE 207*, 480 EXHAUST 212*, 490
Forced Induction 2.2L LN2 OHV
Duration @ .050*, Valve Lift INTAKE 195*, 456 EXHAUST 192*, 440
Can anyone tell me if I am going to have problems using this cam once I get my supercharger.???
Regardless the ticking is annoying.. any further ideas about the ticking.?
Duration lengths are why we have All Motor cam profiles and Forced Induction profiles. notice the duration length between the all motor and FI profile. Forced induction cam profiles have a shorter duration so you have less overlap
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:224U2LUV wrote:Well I didn;t have the cash for the supercharger and still wanted to drive the car. I was told by JBP that I can keep that Cam installed if I am using a super charger. They recommend that I switch the cam to that forced induction one if I was doing a turbo.
Stage 2 2.2L LN2 OHV (WHICH I HAVE)
Duration @ .050*, Valve Lift INTAKE 207*, 480 EXHAUST 212*, 490
Forced Induction 2.2L LN2 OHV
Duration @ .050*, Valve Lift INTAKE 195*, 456 EXHAUST 192*, 440
Can anyone tell me if I am going to have problems using this cam once I get my supercharger.???
Regardless the ticking is annoying.. any further ideas about the ticking.?
Duration lengths are why we have All Motor cam profiles and Forced Induction profiles. notice the duration length between the all motor and FI profile. Forced induction cam profiles have a shorter duration so you have less overlap
Would I still be able to run a super charger with that cam or would I have to change the cam to the forced induction cam?
224U2LUV wrote:Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:224U2LUV wrote:Well I didn;t have the cash for the supercharger and still wanted to drive the car. I was told by JBP that I can keep that Cam installed if I am using a super charger. They recommend that I switch the cam to that forced induction one if I was doing a turbo.
Stage 2 2.2L LN2 OHV (WHICH I HAVE)
Duration @ .050*, Valve Lift INTAKE 207*, 480 EXHAUST 212*, 490
Forced Induction 2.2L LN2 OHV
Duration @ .050*, Valve Lift INTAKE 195*, 456 EXHAUST 192*, 440
Can anyone tell me if I am going to have problems using this cam once I get my supercharger.???
Regardless the ticking is annoying.. any further ideas about the ticking.?
Duration lengths are why we have All Motor cam profiles and Forced Induction profiles. notice the duration length between the all motor and FI profile. Forced induction cam profiles have a shorter duration so you have less overlap
Would I still be able to run a super charger with that cam or would I have to change the cam to the forced induction cam?
When running boost it's either Forced Induction cam or stock cam. Those are your choices.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
I'm puttin money on the rockers or a lifter. Its the most likely culprit as the roller rockers can be a pain in the butt to adjust right off and it sometimes takes a few tries to get it right. I had to keep adjusting mine until the y were all broken in. The timing chain is more of a problem with igher milage engines, unless the engine in question wasn't assembled properly.
"Silly cluth, glazing is for donuts!"
valve lash is something that has to be adjusted perfectly on these motors. and even then they will still have a slight lifter tap. it's just how GM motors are man.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:224U2LUV wrote:Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:224U2LUV wrote:Well I didn;t have the cash for the supercharger and still wanted to drive the car. I was told by JBP that I can keep that Cam installed if I am using a super charger. They recommend that I switch the cam to that forced induction one if I was doing a turbo.
Stage 2 2.2L LN2 OHV (WHICH I HAVE)
Duration @ .050*, Valve Lift INTAKE 207*, 480 EXHAUST 212*, 490
Forced Induction 2.2L LN2 OHV
Duration @ .050*, Valve Lift INTAKE 195*, 456 EXHAUST 192*, 440
Can anyone tell me if I am going to have problems using this cam once I get my supercharger.???
Regardless the ticking is annoying.. any further ideas about the ticking.?
Duration lengths are why we have All Motor cam profiles and Forced Induction profiles. notice the duration length between the all motor and FI profile. Forced induction cam profiles have a shorter duration so you have less overlap
Would I still be able to run a super charger with that cam or would I have to change the cam to the forced induction cam?
When running boost it's either Forced Induction cam or stock cam. Those are your choices.
Whoa! I feel like i was lied to about the cams if what you said is true... I installed that N/A stage 2 cam to gain back some of the power i lost lowering the compression, becasue I didn't have the money to add the supercharger kit when i got the engine built. I could go 2 ways from this point i supose: Swap cam for forced Induction when I am ready for super charger and add SS Valves. Or Swap Pistions and Raise the compression to 10-10.5:1 and keep the rest the same with what I have. I am going to email Mev again @ Jbodyperformance and check again about those cams I got.
Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:valve lash is something that has to be adjusted perfectly on these motors. and even then they will still have a slight lifter tap. it's just how GM motors are man.
Well it's 4:35pm here in Toronto.. I'll be home @ 6pm to post a sound clip of what my engine sounds like..
224U2LUV wrote:Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:224U2LUV wrote:Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:224U2LUV wrote:Well I didn;t have the cash for the supercharger and still wanted to drive the car. I was told by JBP that I can keep that Cam installed if I am using a super charger. They recommend that I switch the cam to that forced induction one if I was doing a turbo.
Stage 2 2.2L LN2 OHV (WHICH I HAVE)
Duration @ .050*, Valve Lift INTAKE 207*, 480 EXHAUST 212*, 490
Forced Induction 2.2L LN2 OHV
Duration @ .050*, Valve Lift INTAKE 195*, 456 EXHAUST 192*, 440
Can anyone tell me if I am going to have problems using this cam once I get my supercharger.???
Regardless the ticking is annoying.. any further ideas about the ticking.?
Duration lengths are why we have All Motor cam profiles and Forced Induction profiles. notice the duration length between the all motor and FI profile. Forced induction cam profiles have a shorter duration so you have less overlap
Would I still be able to run a super charger with that cam or would I have to change the cam to the forced induction cam?
When running boost it's either Forced Induction cam or stock cam. Those are your choices.
Whoa! I feel like i was lied to about the cams if what you said is true... I installed that N/A stage 2 cam to gain back some of the power i lost lowering the compression, becasue I didn't have the money to add the supercharger kit when i got the engine built. I could go 2 ways from this point i supose: Swap cam for forced Induction when I am ready for super charger and add SS Valves. Or Swap Pistions and Raise the compression to 10-10.5:1 and keep the rest the same with what I have. I am going to email Mev again @ Jbodyperformance and check again about those cams I got.
well you will gain back power with that cam while you are stil not boosted. get the valves from CarCustoms.net. Personally, I'd just swap cams, get the blower and everything.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
I just got the movie clip of my car. I have the car idling and the hood is proped open. I am in basiclly pitch black. At first i have the camera about 1" inch above the valve cover then I back away from the car 3-4 feet then I bring the camera right back to the valve cover. The fast is still fast and responsive but the ticking noise is driving me nuts.. keeping in mind it's OHV and all my mods are...
Engine was rebuilt with the following:
Wiseco 8:1 Compression Forged Pistons (Low comp. for my future boost)
JBP Stage 2 Camshaft
New Valves
Performance Valve Springs (Stiffer)
Lifters
Full Port and Polish on Cylinder Head 3-angle, Mill.
1.6:1 Magnum Roller Rockers
Chrome Molly Steel Retainers and Valve Locks
Clevette 77 Cam, Main, and Rod Bearings
Maybe Right Click and Save As. Becasue the file is like 2.2 MB
TICK TICK TICK
224U2LUV wrote: The fast is still fast and responsive but the ticking noise is driving me nuts.. keeping in mind it's OHV and all my mods are...
I meant the car is still fast and responsive.... man I what a long day I am beat....
hey spotabee, just because its not a "forced induction cam" doesn't mean that it won't make more power than a stock cam with a blower. i'm far from an expert with cams but you make a very general statement. JBP's cams, even the stage 2, are not incredibly aggressive grinds, and since the stage 2 has more exhaust duration than intake, it could be suited well to a blower since the supercharger will be making up for the difference (and then some). Since JBP sells both grinds (all motor and forced induction), it doesn't make sense for them to tell this guy that it would be a good grind for the blower if the FI cam was better, since they'd make the same amount of money either way. Forced induction can still like a little overlap in some cases, it just depends on how much. And it takes some dyno time to be able to really tell that, not just looking at cam specs and guessing.
As to the original poster.... DAMN thats loud!! If i were you I'd get it back to whoever did the work for you and make them fix it.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
I plan to run the stage II with a turbo... and that's even more ludicrous around these here forums
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Scarab (Jersey Jay 1.8T) wrote:hey spotabee, just because its not a "forced induction cam" doesn't mean that it won't make more power than a stock cam with a blower. i'm far from an expert with cams but you make a very general statement. JBP's cams, even the stage 2, are not incredibly aggressive grinds, and since the stage 2 has more exhaust duration than intake, it could be suited well to a blower since the supercharger will be making up for the difference (and then some). Since JBP sells both grinds (all motor and forced induction), it doesn't make sense for them to tell this guy that it would be a good grind for the blower if the FI cam was better, since they'd make the same amount of money either way. Forced induction can still like a little overlap in some cases, it just depends on how much. And it takes some dyno time to be able to really tell that, not just looking at cam specs and guessing.
As to the original poster.... DAMN thats loud!! If i were you I'd get it back to whoever did the work for you and make them fix it.
I know it's loud.. I am not sure if this makes a difference but i do have a pacesetter header, downpipe, magnaflow performance cat, magnaflow straight though muffler all with 2 1/4 piping. Any Ideas what that noise could be?
I talked to the engine re-builder and he said something like that clicking noise is the springs snapping back so hard that the hydraulic lifter doesn't have enough time to pump up and is acting almost like a solid lifter??? Is that possible?? I am trying to see if he's fill me with b.s.
He told me that he's got a "softer" dual spring setup that would be much quieter. He told me that I purchased the stiffest springs he supplies..
Help me out all you motor heads!
^^ sounds about right
my OHV (lessly built than yours) did have a fully built valvetrain, and I would assume under the extra pressure from full blown race springs and the roller rockers i installed (probably adjusted them wrong) one, if not all of my lifters blew
it ticks REALLY bad it almost sounds like rod knock
either that or I ground down the lobes on my cam... the car barely moves when you floor it anymore... anything up to 30% throttle is ok, but more than that... it just makes horrible horrible noise... worse than before (exhaust is WIDE open so extremely raspy... it was loud before, now its just horrible)
I would say check your lifters and pushrods. My ohv is still doing this problem, but instead of trying to fix it I'm swapping to an ecotec.
good luck man much love for the OHV
Well i was searching and i think i found my answer.
but i am going the thread jack and ask one question.
i want to build my OHV first before i get the S/C
can i use stage 2 cam with 1:6 roller rockers?
i ask this because if i build my engine and find that it has enough power to make me happy i want to be able to keep it like it is.
that is all.
thanks
http://www.helpelijah.com
224U2LUV wrote:I talked to the engine re-builder and he said something like that clicking noise is the springs snapping back so hard that the hydraulic lifter doesn't have enough time to pump up and is acting almost like a solid lifter??? Is that possible?? I am trying to see if he's fill me with b.s.
IIRC, juicedz4 had the same type of problem. He was running stiffer springs and had to have custom solid lifter made to compensate. Search for the post he made about it.
