OK. So some of you know that I am putting together a 2200 motor. And
some of you know that I'm running as much aftermarket as I can and building it right. In my quest to spin the motor to 7000 or 7200, I'm looking into roller cams. I figured the JBP cams were all hydraulic, and I've heard from several that people running the Forced Induction JBP cam have lots of idle problems. So I am wondering, what's my best bet on setting up a roller cam deal with custom specs, as in, the right amount of lift, duration, and perfect lobe separation for a strong running turbo motor? I was thinking about calling up Crane, but I don't know if they'd do that for me or not. Anyone else have any ideas?




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

JBP cams, most othe people i have heard running them are 2.4 not 2.2 or 2200.


2004 Grand Prix GTP (Competition Group)
SOLD-->1999 Z24 5M-#30 to register on JBO
"You can please some of the people some of the time but you can't please all the people'
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Call Crane, follow the instructions for Dave Maxwell. He'll set you up with what-ever you want. I like the idea of the mechanical roller cam for the LN2.
Mike(HotRod V6) has gotten me really interested in doing a whole new block, with a mech.roller!

And I haven't finish all the little details on what I've got now!

Well to start with all 2.2L/2200 blocks from around 90 and up are all factory roller cam, so any aftermarket cam you get will be a roller cam also.

If you want to spin that much RPM, i plan on the same thing for mine around 7500 max, you need to go with a solid roller setup, for one you will pick up an easy 25-30 hp over what you lose with a hydralic lifter and the valvetrain will be much more stbale at higher RPM.

There is a post about the 60 degree V6 solid roller lifters, and i have had a set of order from summit for a few months and they should be in sometime next month hopefully.

As far as cam specs go, its best to have all the head work done and have the head flowed, so that you kow how much air is the head can move, and if it maxes out at .500 lift then getting a cam with more than .500 lift is pointless, also the duration you dont want to go to big on a turbo motor, most of the time smaller is better, and keep the lobe separation pretty wide, like 112, or even 114, that way the idle will be better.

Also you need to kmow what the realistic operating range of the engine is going to be, i mean yeah it may see a max RPM if say 7200, but not everyday all day, especially if its a daily driver. So your going to want a cam thats going to help spool the turbo quick and make good low end power from around 2500 and up, if the engine doesnt start to make power till 5K, thens its going to be a dog and hard to drive on the street and probably get very bad gas milage, and youll just get fed up with it. And if your running an auto, make sure you tell the cam grinder if your running a higher stall torque converter and what the stall speed is, becasue that can all make a differance.




Mike

1992 GMC Sonoma GT #492. Oh, Its just a stock V6!

1999 Cavalier Coupe, daily driver, 2200/M5. Mods and pics are in my registry.
+
That pretty much says it all.


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I agree with all of that Mike. I'm not looking to go too crazy here. I mean, you are right. The engine won't see max RPM daily. My plan is to tune for 15 psi and run 8 or 10 daily. I'm sure we'll figure out what I can go with, in addition to the Crane 1.6 roller rockers, to make sure I have clearance and everything. Can you give me any estimate for what they might charge for a solid roller cam?




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

Also, using a solid roller cam, I'd definitely have to adjust the valves more often wouldn't I




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

I would be interested in info about going to solid roller lifters, if you feel like keeping us up to date here

PoundinFire wrote:I would be interested in info about going to solid roller lifters, if you feel like keeping us up to date here

It's in a different thread...link
but, as stated, he won't have them in hand for possibly another month...



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

How much so you think I'm going to pay for a custom spec hydraulic roller cam from Crane?




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

If you have good rocker studs and good adjuster nuts you dont have to adjust the valves all the time no, maybe once every few months, just depends on how often you drive it. More than likely you will be checking them but not actually adjusting them becaue they will be in spec.

As far as cam cost, thats up to whoever makes it for you, ive seen some go with crane for around 150 bucks or so to have the stock cam reground.




Mike

1992 GMC Sonoma GT #492. Oh, Its just a stock V6!

1999 Cavalier Coupe, daily driver, 2200/M5. Mods and pics are in my registry.
+
That pretty much says it all.


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How much the cam will cost, I don't know. Buthere's some more info on Crane's cusom cams.

Also, on the Crane web site, click on the "CAM LOBE PROFILES" button for a listing of their Master lobe profiles. I believe you will need a cam blank for whatever grind you get.