im puting a timing chain back on my 2.4 after i put the stage 2 JBP cams in and everythings in time and when i go to put the tensioner back in it doesnt hold preasure on the tensioner shoe which leaves slack in the chain between the idler and the crank sprocket, what am i doing wrong? is there supposed to be a spring in the tensioner or what cause i know the 2.3 has a spring in its tensioner? thanks

Is it a 2 piece tensioner? If so get a new one. About $40. It will be a 1 piece, and has a re-set lever. I have done 3 cams swaps, and we always have problems with the stock 2 piece tensioner. It using oil pressure to get tension, but never seems to reset.



FU Tuning

You have to push it in all the way to reset the tension. Use a screwdriver and push the plunger until it stops. it will then release and put tension on the chain.

i cranked the engine over after i installed the tensioner to see if the oil preasure would pump it up, didnt seem to move, how much cranking do you think it would take to pump it up, i dont wanna close the engine up if its not going to work. thanks

jsunfireGT2000 wrote:i cranked the engine over after i installed the tensioner to see if the oil preasure would pump it up, didnt seem to move, how much cranking do you think it would take to pump it up, i dont wanna close the engine up if its not going to work. thanks

Truly I would buy a new one. The 1 piece style does not use oil pressure, it is spring load. You can set it and it will be tight before you put the ocver back on.



FU Tuning

alright man thanks, ill order a new tensioner tomarrow.

One piece is the way to go.

Modds:
GM Stage 2 with SFPHQ 2.8 pulley
Injen Intake
GM Dual Pass Aftercooler w15psi Surge Tank
GMPP Exhaust Manifold
CTi 3" Downpipe and Cat
Custom 3" Cat Back with Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler
ZZ Engine Mount
ZZ Front Trans Mount
B&M Shifter
NGK BKR7E Plugs
DC Strut Tower Brace

Soon to be installed:
2.6 pulley, Siemens 60lbs Injectors, NGK 2 Step Colder Plugs
Tune Time Custom Dyno Tune

How long did it take to get the stage 2's in the mail after they got our money/placed the order?

-M


Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.

only like 4 days and im in maryland, so good timing i thought.

The 2.4 tensioner is one of the most disappointing designs I have ever seen.

But nothing is wrong with yours and it does not need to be replaced.

When the tensioner is fully released, it will lock itself in place where it stops we you push it back in.
You have to push ALL the way back in to get it to release again and then it will hold tension on the chain. Pushing it all the way in can be really hard because you are also squeezing oil out of the assembly when you do it


sig not found

OOOoooooooo.. Maryland where?

I'm here in Towson area, and I think I riding on LD2 cams. (long story)

I wanna get the stage 2s, gonna have to come check you out.

-M


Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.

im in cecil county maryland, im about a hour from baltimore, im close to elkton.

so should it be spring loaded? also is there a break in period on the s/c grind cams anyone know?

it is spring loaded, but there is a ratchet system that holds it in place as its pushed in.
I think this was meant to ease installation, but its also exactly the opposite of what you would want to happen after its installed.

For any flat tappet cam (2.3/2.4s only. not 2200 or ECO) the engine should be started and ran at 2000 rpm minimum for 15 minutes.
This is kinda old school though and may not be very important on newer engines with tiny valves and light springs (like ours).
The reason is that an additive in motor oil (zinc chromate) is the reason the cam does not grind itself flat with direct metal to metal contact. At temps over 125degrees, the ZC actually plates itself to steel parts and the cams and lifters actually grind it back off as they turn so that the additive is taking the abuse instead of the component. The reason for revving it right away is to get the parts hot faster and then give it enough time to build up a decent layer.



sig not found

protomec wrote:it is spring loaded, but there is a ratchet system that holds it in place as its pushed in.
I think this was meant to ease installation, but its also exactly the opposite of what you would want to happen after its installed.

For any flat tappet cam (2.3/2.4s only. not 2200 or ECO) the engine should be started and ran at 2000 rpm minimum for 15 minutes.
This is kinda old school though and may not be very important on newer engines with tiny valves and light springs (like ours).
The reason is that an additive in motor oil (zinc chromate) is the reason the cam does not grind itself flat with direct metal to metal contact. At temps over 125degrees, the ZC actually plates itself to steel parts and the cams and lifters actually grind it back off as they turn so that the additive is taking the abuse instead of the component. The reason for revving it right away is to get the parts hot faster and then give it enough time to build up a decent layer.

Actually there is 2 types of tensioners. One is spring loaded, one is not. They do go bad. We have ran across on that would not hold tension, even if pushed all the way in.



FU Tuning

John Higgins wrote:

protomec wrote:it is spring loaded, but there is a ratchet system that holds it in place as its pushed in.
I think this was meant to ease installation, but its also exactly the opposite of what you would want to happen after its installed.

Actually there is 2 types of tensioners. One is spring loaded, one is not. They do go bad. We have ran across on that would not hold tension, even if pushed all the way in.

ALL of the 2.4 tensioners I have come across have been spring loaded (as well as oil pressurized). I HATE the one piece design, and have seen more of that type fail then the OEM type.

seems like I've had this discussion before......

Depending on age, it is harder to 'reset' the tensioner. Sometimes there is a build up inside the tensioner bore, that makes it hard to depress it far enough to reset. I usually pull the plunger out, spray it with brake cleaner to get the crap out, drop in a few drops of clean engine oil, and put it back together........ install it, use the screw driver to depress the plunger in farther then the outer bore, and it springs back out, putting tension on the tensioner shoe.




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

Bringing this back up I am having a similar problem. On my Grand Am I have the motor out and the last thing is the tensioner. Did you guys set the timing and then put the tensioner "housing" back in and then the tensioner rod so to speak? I have a 97 so it is the oil one not the newer style spring loaded. On all my cars I always put the spring ones and never had a problem but this one is only oil.

As of now the chain and timing are set, should I take out the guides and put the tensioner housing in with a little oil and then put the rod back and push it with a screwdriver against the tensioner shoe?

Also one more thing, when I took it apart I did not realize one side of the plunger had a dimple on it the other was flat, which side goes against the shoe?

Need help quick putting the motor back in tomorrow at 9 am,

Chris



http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible
2.3-2.4 HO ADAPTER FLANGES 65$ shipped, Check GP Forum!

Set the timing, install the guides, install the tensioner and shoe.

Cant say for sure about the tensioner (dimple and such)

2 piece style, pre-set the tensioner by compressing it all the way in till it locks, install it in the engine, press on the head to release it against the shoe.

If you have the 1 piece style, I believe you need a pin to hold it once its compressed, install it, then putt the pin...... but I'm not sure, since I never use that style.




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

How the hell does that work when you have no oil pressure? That makes no sense. I cant get this and it is holding me up bad. You put it all back together and press it and it just stays down.



http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible
2.3-2.4 HO ADAPTER FLANGES 65$ shipped, Check GP Forum!

Your not pushing far enough.

Notice that most have said screwdriver.
you have to push WAY back in. Further than the shoe can. Further than you think you have to.



sig not found

yep, you have to press the plunger IN for it to release.

Its spring loaded, so it will hold against the shoe w/o oil pressure.




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

Thanks a ton guys, I got it and the motor is back in and ready to fire up, I just have to put the intake mani on and coolant lines.

Thanks
Chris



http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible
2.3-2.4 HO ADAPTER FLANGES 65$ shipped, Check GP Forum!

well i had the same problem.. easy fix ... for the two piece.. insert the "pillar thing' nipple goes inside .. push it all the way in with your hands till it goes all it will go ( it will have a little sping left ) .. get something of size and tap it a bit hard on the top meaning the pillar thing untill it spings out completely ....it will reset right away...... dont be scared to hit it ..

yeah its hard to get it in ,but it works pretty good, i had to push hard to get it to come back out and it hold tension without oil pressure.

Bringing this back up... So Im having a similar issue at the OP, once the timing is set and we go to turn the engine over 2 times to make sure its right, there is slac between the intake and exhaust cams on the chain.. Also, as we're turning the engine, at TDC the plunger GOES BACK IN halfway until its back off TDC ... Now I thought the plunger is supposed to stay out all the way against the shoe when your turning the engine by hand? What is wrong here.. This is the SECOND brand new tentioner in 2 days that I have and this last one is still going back in halfway.

I believe the timing is off still that is causing this, meaning after 2 full rotations when we go to put the dowel pins in, the pins wont push all the way in like they should.. Could that be my problem?

Thanks.









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