I GOT A NEW QUESTION!
anyways
everyone knows the saying: "there is no replacement for discplacement"
well if i want to up my Liters what can be done? remember i have a 2.2L ohv.
besides an engine swap
http://www.helpelijah.com
if you have money, get a stroker kit... but most people dont have money like that, nor want to put the effort.
Dillon Zellmer wrote:so is 2 and a quarter perfect for velocity?
theres no such thing as a perfect size....
re-read the article, skimming over it, or not even reading it, you missed out on ALOT of info....
Sean McAfee wrote:I GOT A NEW QUESTION!
anyways
everyone knows the saying: "there is no replacement for discplacement"
well if i want to up my Liters what can be done? remember i have a 2.2L ohv.
besides an engine swap
What you could also do is bore out the cylinder walls but doing that will make your cylinder walls thing and could be a bit dangerous if you're running boost. If they are too thin that could cause problems and cause your engine to go bye bye. I personally have a friend that had that happen to in his civic because they're walls are much thinner than ours, so his motor went and rebuilt it with upgraded sleeves to handle the boost and not have any problems.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
The 2.2L/2200's have plenty of material around the cylinder walls for boring. The stock replacement pistons are available up to 1mm oversize(approx. 0.040"). Unless you have a defective block you should be able to bore up to .75mm(approx. 0.030") with no problems what-so-ever. If you decide to go to 1mm over, I would recomend you have the cylinder wall sonic tested to make sure the walls aren't too thin.
I went with the .75mm over pistons on mine, which took my displacement from 134cid to just under 136cid. As you can see it's not a big gain in displacement, but when you combine that with all the other little mods, eventually it adds up to a decent power gain.
where could i get a stroker kit?
how much do those run?
and how do they work exactly? like shorter rods with a longer piston or something like that?
http://www.helpelijah.com
Sean McAfee wrote:where could i get a stroker kit?
how much do those run?
and how do they work exactly? like shorter rods with a longer piston or something like that?
go to a machine shop, its a custom job, see how much they will charge....
if you wanna be fast, gotta do some research locally as well.
yeah i figured it would probably be custom. i always look at price versus HP and how much it would make a difference. like that is why i decided to opt out of the S/C $3500 for just the kit and then to tune and everything after that would be way more $$$. i'm not racing it so it doesn't matter that much to me.
http://www.helpelijah.com
cant always do that price vs hp stuff...
every engine runs different. even if they are the same engine.
You might be able to use the rods from a gen 1 iron head 2.0 OHV engine. They're 5.31" long compared to 5.589" for the aluminum head 2.0/ 2.2/ 2200. You'll likely have more bore wear on the thrust side of the piston, but it probably won't be enough to worry about.
Using this change in rod size, you could swap to a 3.1 v6 piston and increase stroke by 0.028" to 3.488" through offset grinding the crank throw. This combination keeps connecting rod: stroke ratio above 1.5, which is good for engine reliability. Combined with a .030" overbore, the total engine displacement would be 137 ci .
You'd need engine balancing after this, of course. My guess is that you'd have to add mass to the counterweights to make up for the changes. And I'd suggest you do some research into the strength of the 1st gen rods before getting too serious. This combinitaion is only based on rod length, stroke length, compression height, and deck height numbers. You'll need to check bearing diameter, pin diameter, and rod width to confirm proper fitment.
This may lead to other advantages, though. Pistons for the 3.1 are more common than pistons for the 2.0 / 2.2 engine. And offset grinding to increase stroke isn't too expensive providing there's no welding involved. Just using flat top pistons you'll increase the compression ratio considerably over stock. If you can find another piston for a 3.5" bore engine with a compression height at 1.421" then you could increase stroke to a total of 3.53" and keep within the 1.5:1 rod/ stroke ratio. The displacement with this stroke works out to 138 ci, or 2.3L. The downside is that you'll need to weld the crank. Offset grinding will make the crank pin too small for the rod bearings.
hth
-->Slow
Bringin it back up :o)
K im jw whats the highest compression ratio i can get in a daily driver?
also if you get a really high comp ratio will you haveta start puttin little divots in the cylindar top so it dont hit the valves?
2.340 - 60,
16.591 @ 80.52 - 1/4
Guesswho69000@hotmail.com
Dillon Zellmer wrote:Bringin it back up :o)
K im jw whats the highest compression ratio i can get in a daily driver?
also if you get a really high comp ratio will you haveta start puttin little divots in the cylindar top so it dont hit the valves?
You're talking about highest compression pistons for all motor purposes? I wouldn't go any higher than 10.5:1 CR Pistons.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Also, the big thing is getting the right fuel octane for daily driving and making sure your computer doesn't freak out.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
what if i got 11 with 93 octane?
2.340 - 60,
16.591 @ 80.52 - 1/4
Guesswho69000@hotmail.com
Dillon Zellmer wrote:what if i got 11 with 93 octane?
I can't answer that for you...only way to find out is by doing it.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
11:1 is really pushing the limits,even with an aluminum head and 93 oct. I would limit it to 10:1, to keep detonation in check. For a daily driver you want a little leway, for hot weather and/or heavy load, both of which will increase the possibility of detonation. If you don't burn a piston or valve, the knock sensor will retard the timing so much it would just become a dog again.
