Ok as some of you might know I had a port and polish, valve job and re surfacing done to my head its a 2.2 2200. Is there any adjustment that might need to be done to the valve springs? I ask because the car isnt running right. There is a lot of chatter and it doesnt seem to be as responsive as it use to be. I dont know if its because of that or something else I have ordered new push rods and I am looking at getting a set of 1:1.6 rocker arms from JBP. I am pretty sure I put everything back the way it came out as far as rocker arms and pushrods because I know that can make a difference. Thanks for all of the help and insight.

After you install the new rockers and pushrods, adjust your valves properly. It really takes two people, one to crank over the motor by hand (socket on the crank pulley) and the other adjusting the valves down at the end of each stroke. The installation instructions can be found on the NY J Bodies website in the library.




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So the valves would need to be adjusted even if just replacing the head gasket really? even if using the same rockers and push rods?

yes if you take the head off they would need to be adjusted .. even if you did not change any parts

i readjust my valves every 10,000 miles. just a habit. but yes any time you pull the head the valves should be readjusted.





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Great thanks guys this may be the issue with my car then. God I hope so I really miss driving the thing lol. I am sure you guys know the feeling. Still gonna get the new rocker arms shhh dont tell my girlfriend.

From what I've read, you still have the stock rockers and studs, correct? If this is the case the rockers are non-adjustable.

It sounds like the valve lash is too tight for the stock valve train. How much was the block and/or head surfaced? Was it more than 0.020" total, then you will need the roller rocker conversion to have an adjustable valve train, so the valve lash can be adjusted properly.

Also, if the P&P job was too agressive, then you will lose port velocity, which will cost you low end torque, especially if the rest of the motor is still stock.

Get the roller rocker conversion done and the header done and you should find some of the lost torque, but a significant gain in the upper RPMs.

Ok ummm so based on what your saying madjack I dont need to adjust the valves?
Some times I hate being a noob lol.

what madjack says about the factory prts being non-adjustable is true.
And if everything was done correctly. you SHOULD NOT need to adjust them.
Based on what listed as done, there was plenty of opportunity to screw up.

Quote:

Ok as some of you might know I had a port and polish, valve job and re surfacing done to my head its a 2.2 2200. Is there any adjustment that might need to be done to the valve springs?

Valve job-- whenever the valves and seats are ground, the valve stem move further up into the head. If the ground them heavily, then it moved up alot. Normal procedure for grinding valves entails grinding the proper amount off the top of the valve stem to fix the movement. But they may not have done that. The opposite can be true also. They could have ground too much off the stems.
Resurface head-- normally the difference can be taken up by the lifters, but maybe alot was taken off. And/or that combined with the 1st part could be a problem.

with factory parts....
If the head or valves were ground much and its causing the valves to hang open, then you can put washers between the head and rocker arm bolts to take up the difference.
If the clearance is too loose, a washer between rocker arm bolts and rocker pivots could help. If not that then new longer pushrods would be needed.



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Hmmm theres a lot to think about I am pretty sure the guy told me that he took off the .020 im thinking he meant mm. or cm. not inch. Is there a way to tell if the valves are hanging open as you say? The guy I took this to builds racing motors for local racers so I am pretty confident that he did what he should have. He did mention cutting the tops of the valve stem off as well due to having grinding the outer rim of the valve and the port to fit get the proper fit. Other than the valves and such there really shouldnt be much else that could cause the rattle that I am hearing that I can think of because I didnt mess with the pistons lifters cams or any of the other moving parts. Thanks agian for all the great input guys.

Ummmm yeah so like ummm yeah.... the ummm egr valve yeah like ummm that needs to be like screwed in or something???? Ok I am a noob and I admitt to it freely. Its running great now with the egr valve in place. Thanks for all the insight and advise though guys i appreciate it....