Hey guys, its been a while since I've posted on the org, I just moved from California to AZ, nice long drive -.- Anywho.. during the drive my car started to do the dumb over heating act, the last four months its been at or around 195\210 degrees during normal driving, freeway around 200 roughly, though my GM thermostat is set at 180 ? Fan is working, no smoke, no oil in the fluid holding tank.. I'm kinda lost.. About 2 years ago, when I first bought my Z-24 there was damage to the radaitor housing, a piece of wood was stuck in it some how (don't ask) the dealership I bought it from removed it, and assured there was no phyical damage, and it hasn't leaked or anything, do you think maybe, somehow the cooling fin could be damaged, or its dented and blocking some flow? I'm running out of ideas, I got a lot of money into my engine, and I can't afford to blow it, also my IAT sensor keeps blowing, and when it does I get a P-300 (random misfire code) I noticed that my engine when its first started, back fires a tiny bit for about 30 seconds of pushing the gas pedel and I got to feather it until the idle smooths out, then its happy going, by adding the cams I put in, do I have to retartad or advaice my timing? or ... I don't know... I'm confused, and lost.. any help or advice is soooo greatly taken. Please look at profile to see list of current engine mods, so you guys know what I'm dealing with =\

(The drive from CA to AZ sucks btw, heads up -.- )


Timothy Kramer


Proudly Sponsored By:
High Rev MotorSports, INC.
www.HighRevMotorSports.Com

could be a bad thermostat




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

I'm hoping not.. being to replace that involves quit a bit of work, and I just got it not to long ago, though I can try to get it checked. One thing, is that my temp light has been on and off since I first got the car, before any mods..-.-




Timothy Kramer


Proudly Sponsored By:
High Rev MotorSports, INC.
www.HighRevMotorSports.Com

any chance of gasket issues?




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

When I checked eariler, everything is super dry, no signs of seepage, leaks, etc.. I keep the engine super clean, I'd notice it, though I think I might get a shop to pressure test my head gasket to rule it out.


Timothy Kramer


Proudly Sponsored By:
High Rev MotorSports, INC.
www.HighRevMotorSports.Com

Timothy Kramer wrote:When I checked eariler, everything is super dry, no signs of seepage, leaks, etc.. I keep the engine super clean, I'd notice it, though I think I might get a shop to pressure test my head gasket to rule it out.

good plan. let us know how that works out.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

<-- nooblet, wtf is seafoam lol... never heard of it before.. -.-


Timothy Kramer


Proudly Sponsored By:
High Rev MotorSports, INC.
www.HighRevMotorSports.Com

Timothy Kramer wrote:

seafoam is a strong fuel system and crankcase cleaning agent. it helps decarbonize your entire motor, cleans your injectors, cleans your valves, cleans inside your block, the works. You can find it at any auto parts store. It's in a white can with red font and red lid. Looks kinda like something you'd see randomly placed in a hardware store or something, but it's gooooood stuff. Read the can.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

for the coolant system, new therm and a coolant system back flush...and the pressure test.

for the iat, trace the wires and see if there are any exposed and shorting out.... also those are easy to replace at 11$

Hey Event, I just got off the phone, I got an price for $146 (Shipped) for a new radaitor, and if I wanted to have a shop do it, $150? I called three places around me, and they want between 90-$160 to flush my system, thats crazy.. The IAT sensor wires I will check, thats a good idea. But I still don't understand that issue, I'll worry about the backfiring and hestitation after I fix my engine from blowing due to heat lol.. I'll read into the seaform stuff too, being its a rebuild..not much to clean, but if it works, and is a good product I don't mind putting some extra cash in keeping my car better. I haven't taken it to a shop for a pressure test, but I'm really starting to turn away.. like I said no whitesmoke, no oil or odd fluid color in the tank, I'm thinking for sure thermostat or radaitor it self, 1) its 9 years old 2) prior damage 3) I like to buy new stuff lol..

If I do go thru with buying the new one, should I go for a OEM replacement? or something a tiny better? I heard someone makes an Aftermarket High performance one, though not sure if it would really benefit me until I start going to the track soon.


Timothy Kramer


Proudly Sponsored By:
High Rev MotorSports, INC.
www.HighRevMotorSports.Com

I used to replace Auto Zone IAT sensors on a regular basis. Put a genuine GM and haven't had problems with it yet.

The drive from Cali to AZ can be demanding depending on the time of the year. I go from San Diego to PHX quite regularly. Check out the www.azjbo.org PHX's local J site.

Nice, thanks man. I used to be part of the jboom in Michigan before I had moved to CA, then during my 2years in CA, in my town\city area there is a major lack of car events, I'm really hoping that AZ can give me some of my fun back again. I think I've replaced.. 3 IAT's, 2 autzones now 1 GM lol..I'm on a role! I feel like I am driving my 87 IROC Z-28 I used to have, I had it all fully built up engine wise, and like once every three months, bam back in the backyard being worked on lol.. I called a shop, they are going to give me a cost just for the heck of it for a high performance radaitor. Not that I wanna fork out 300-500$ But if its gonna save me headaches down the road.. why not? unless you guys think its a wast e, I'm open =P


Timothy Kramer


Proudly Sponsored By:
High Rev MotorSports, INC.
www.HighRevMotorSports.Com

Dude you scare me. I grew up in MI, hung out w jbom too, moved to Cali almost 3 years ago, and now I'm looking to move to PHX, lol.

Rofl! I used to have a Red Sunfire, it was also a 96 the pic might be in my profile still, I was the first person likei n the state to hook one up as dramatily as i did I think... I know I had the first RKSport body kit shipped and what not, went to quite a few car shows and won some too =) but that was before I moved to California and it got wrecked like 8 days later.. thus why I am working on my Z-24 =\

Aim: KnightOfLegends


Timothy Kramer


Proudly Sponsored By:
High Rev MotorSports, INC.
www.HighRevMotorSports.Com

So I took it to a shop, then find they are booked until tomorrow.. no biggie, I did notice that my upper hose is kinda soft and that even though my fluid tank has a LOT of pressure, the upper hose has almost none.. odd..


Timothy Kramer


Proudly Sponsored By:
High Rev MotorSports, INC.
www.HighRevMotorSports.Com

Timothy Kramer wrote:Hey Event, I just got off the phone, I got an price for $146 (Shipped) for a new radaitor, and if I wanted to have a shop do it, $150? I called three places around me, and they want between 90-$160 to flush my system, thats crazy.. The IAT sensor wires I will check, thats a good idea. But I still don't understand that issue, I'll worry about the backfiring and hestitation after I fix my engine from blowing due to heat lol.. I'll read into the seaform stuff too, being its a rebuild..not much to clean, but if it works, and is a good product I don't mind putting some extra cash in keeping my car better. I haven't taken it to a shop for a pressure test, but I'm really starting to turn away.. like I said no whitesmoke, no oil or odd fluid color in the tank, I'm thinking for sure thermostat or radaitor it self, 1) its 9 years old 2) prior damage 3) I like to buy new stuff lol..

If I do go thru with buying the new one, should I go for a OEM replacement? or something a tiny better? I heard someone makes an Aftermarket High performance one, though not sure if it would really benefit me until I start going to the track soon.

well in 9 years you should have some degredation somewhere internally... how bad, wont know till you see really.

but the prices sound about right. around here a flush is more 60 to 90, they hook up a hose to their stuff and it powers it all out through the heater core as well.


as for the iat sensor, gm is your best bet... i bought the bosch warner or what not from pep boys... so far so good.




what part were you talking about on the upgraded one, the iat or the radiator?

Radiator, the place I was looking doesn't carry any high performance ones, I guess It doesn't really matter, though one shop did mention something about a cooling chip that is added to the ECM to force the computer to activate the fan at 180 degrees instead of 195\200.... but whats the point of having a 180 thermostat... he kinda confused me.. OBD2 I thought coulnd't be chip modded, only reflashed? I am really debating on just ripping it apart by my self being I have no one out here I really know\trust as of yet with experience.. I hate moving.. I don't want a shop to be like "Yeah, 40$ for a test, and oh yeah you need blah blah for this" I think i'll just buy a new Radiator, new upper hose, new lower and new themro and see how it goes, if I have over heating, only issue then would be in the block\head. And everything in my engine bay would be new cept my AC which works perfect =\

<3 Prescott valley =(


Timothy Kramer


Proudly Sponsored By:
High Rev MotorSports, INC.
www.HighRevMotorSports.Com