who has a good all motor 2200 . what do yall have done to it and how much power u think u have ? any dynoes? what times yall run ? what parts yall have
i have every bolt on for my 2200 and i'm completely gutted......
I ran a 16.0........on 17" rims......... Best I've put down........
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
thats nto bad at all man . i gonna do a 75 shot on mine so i plan to jump into the 13 when i done . with drag radials. good luck with urs man
Nitrous isn't "all motor"
Honestly, I wouldn't pick the 2.2 OHV as a base for any setup looking for a LOT of power.
The fastest NA 2.2 is in the mid 15's, which my Z24 runs with an intake and exhaust, or stock if I had a 5 speed. Even on the boosted/nitrous top 5 list, #4 and #5 have yet to break 15.5's.
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
mines at a 16.5, what else could i do to get it lower other than nitrous
Look for PJ (The Flying Skwirl). He has full exhaust, intake & a bunch of headwork done also.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
i never ran mine on all motor, but i am boosted at 5 pounds and the best time i have ran so fare is a 15.2 on street tires. I couldnt get no traction.
I didnt choose the 2.2 as the motor for my setup. Just all I could afford..............being only 16 at the time....well 17 now.
1997 pontiac sunfire
2.2 OHV 2.4l coming soon
2.25 inch custom exhaust
WAI
RK Underdrive pulley
50 shot of NX
pacesetter header
damien campbell wrote:i never ran mine on all motor, but i am boosted at 5 pounds and the best time i have ran so fare is a 15.2 on street tires. I couldnt get no traction.
thats a nice problem to have
anyway Im not a 2200, but I've got an intake, pace setter header, and full 2.25" exhaust with magnaflow muffler.
I've got the Comp Cams 1.6:1 ratio roller rockers. (thats higher for the 2.2 crowd)
I also have upper engine mount insert, lower poly dogbone, koni yellows, and poly control arm bushings.
all of which I have never gone to the track.. unfortunately I'll never know how fast I am right now, as I'm boosting within a months time.
to say that the highest times on a 2200/2.2 is mid 15's is dissapointing, I'm sure we'd all like to think otherwise.
I do creep away slowly from stock 2.4's at this point, but its widely dependant on the driver, and I'm not making any claims.
It can be done, it just takes a LOT more money then anyone else.
There's nothing wrong with being the underdog
<a href="http://www.cardomain.com/id/fireside"><img src="http://www.influx.ca/avatars/stevefiresig.jpg"></a>
Well by taking out my backseat, pass seat, all carpeting from din back to trunk, and interior trim pieces, everything besides dash
I ran the #2 fastest N/A time for a 2200! That was with just the p&p'ed head, motor mounts, instake, downpipe-back exhaust (2/14 piping from header out to muffler), b&m short throw, plugs, wires?
I had 17's on front and really small wheels/tires out back I got off another guy at the track!
I'm guessing with a 50/75shot I'd be at around 14.6-8.....And with upgraded suspension (bushings, camber/toe tricks, stiffer shocks) I'd expect 14.3s at most! All depends on that 60`
Things I want before anything,
Header
MSD Dis-II
MSD Window Switch
Suspension tweaking
Possibly 1:6:1 rockers and more aggresive P&P!
Shifted wrote:Nitrous isn't "all motor"
Honestly, I wouldn't pick the 2.2 OHV as a base for any setup looking for a LOT of power.
The fastest NA 2.2 is in the mid 15's, which my Z24 runs with an intake and exhaust, or stock if I had a 5 speed. Even on the boosted/nitrous top 5 list, #4 and #5 have yet to break 15.5's.
yea its great Im running right at the boosted/n2o 2200's numbers just all motor! I'll be in the mid 14s very soon hopefully! I would get slicks but Im not the one to replace any axles.......I'd be REALLY happy with an LSD though!
SHifted: Would the Phantom Grip be worth it at all? I don't know if I should go ahead and grab that one, or wait till I get back to Atlanta and talk with Engineered's team about their LSD for our cars?
N2O + Bolt-ons
= 220Hp/
250Tq
Coming Soon:HpTunersPro, EagleConnectingRods, WiescoPistons, 13sec2200
Phantom grip helps, but with slicks, you'll eat axles. If you can get an LSD made, I'd wait for that, since either way you have to open the transmission up, don't know about you, but tranny work is expensive here and I'd only want to do something once
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
hell yeah thats what i'm talkin bout . 13 all motor . lol i would love to do that but i know it will be a lot of work . and mine will stay a daily driver . i just posted in the newbie section that i got my B&M shifter plus . its awesome . but yeah give me some suggestions on what to do next to let me be on my way to atleast 14's N/A out a 2200
To get your car to the 13s all motor and still be streetable with the 2200, prepare to spend over 10 grand.............
1997 pontiac sunfire
2.2 OHV 2.4l coming soon
2.25 inch custom exhaust
WAI
RK Underdrive pulley
50 shot of NX
pacesetter header
Look up scrufdog... last i checked he has the baddest ass all motor OHV 4 banger. He runs nitrous too but the car supposedly made 170hp off the bottle.
8V engines respond really well to ignition timing advance, cams, portwork, and added compression. With a 2.2 you could build a pretty fast all motor J, just don't waste money on stupid mods like jet chips or whatever. From PJ's car the biggest differences i've seen came from the full exhaust (WITH HEADER!!! no gain from catback alone) and port work. Get an Emanage so you can tweak fuel and handle timing advance, or get an msd standalone igntion and run weber sidedraft carbs or sportbike throttlebodies for maximum power. Higher compression (from shaving the head or flat-top/domed pistons will make a huge difference as well but timing and fuel will have to be adjusted to take advantage of it.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
blade0604 wrote:hell yeah thats what i'm talkin bout . 13 all motor . lol i would love to do that but i know it will be a lot of work . and mine will stay a daily driver . i just posted in the newbie section that i got my B&M shifter plus . its awesome . but yeah give me some suggestions on what to do next to let me be on my way to atleast 14's N/A out a 2200
All I have to say is
Engine:
Hardcore PnP
Aggresive Cam
Programmeble MSD (advance your timing)
Full exhaust (header, downpipe, straight to muffler : D )
Roller Rockers 1:6:1
Short Ram Intake
56+mm Throttle Body
Ported Intake Mani
Larger Injectors
Walbro inline fuel pump
FMU or some kind of fuel controller
High Compression pistons
Eagle H-Beams
Chromoly pushrods
Race bearings (clevite 77)
Upper and Lower mounts
Pulleys
Tranny/Suspension/Wheels:
Shorter ratio gearing
Spec Stg III
Lightened Flywheel
LSD
B&m Short throw
Stiffer shocks
Urethane bushings all around
300hp axles
Tranny mounts
15in lightweight wheels
Drag slicks
Misc:
Strip all interior except for driver seat + seatbelt
Strip A/c
Strip ABS
Strip rear drums (if possible)
Fuel cell
C/f hood
C/f trunk
C/f Doors
C/f fenders
or
Full fiberglass shell
Bahh that's all I know! (Don't think my little list was neccesary) I know there's little knic knac stuff I missed out on including actual details, but that would be a really stout set-up! I'd be expecting better than 13s though with the things I listed! I don't know, still learning over here!
Event: You know of any solutions on modifying a 2.2's crankshaft? I remember when DragEvo had the stroker kit for our cars and it said it would stroke it to around 145 hp/161Tq! Since their destruction I've been trying to piece together my own stroker kit but the crank is the only thing I'm stuck on! Suggestions anyone?
N2O + Bolt-ons
= 220Hp/
250Tq
Coming Soon:HpTunersPro, EagleConnectingRods, WiescoPistons, 13sec2200
SunfireN2o wrote:To get your car to the 13s all motor and still be streetable with the 2200, prepare to spend over 10 grand.............
doubt it. thats if you run around buying stuff you DONT really NEED, but more so want... like carbon fiber cell phone holders that are real carbon fiber, diamond plate floor mats, and carbon fiber doors and parts custom made....
a good engine rebuild is around 2000$, tack on another 1000$ if you want ceramic coated pistons, blueprinting, extreme crank lightening and titanium parts in the valve train. with 2000$ if you visit the right shop or do the shopping around, you can get custom parts made to your own specifications and its not gonna cost more than what you would pay for a mild rebuild.
a transmission should be another 1500$.
suspension maybe 800$
and you still just clear 5300$.... weight reduction is free.
tack on another 1000$ for msd and all those smaller items...maybe 2000$ to include tunning, and you still arent even near 10,000$
theres gonna be people that are new to this, or dont wanna do the work, then yea in that case it may be over 10,000$ but if you do the work, and plan things out, it wont even near 10K
Quote:
Look up scrufdog... last i checked he has the baddest ass all motor OHV 4 banger. He runs nitrous too but the car supposedly made 170hp off the bottle.
174 all motor, 225 on nitrous
http://cavy.scrufdog.com/mycav.html
Quote:
Event: You know of any solutions on modifying a 2.2's crankshaft? I remember when DragEvo had the stroker kit for our cars and it said it would stroke it to around 145 hp/161Tq! Since their destruction I've been trying to piece together my own stroker kit but the crank is the only thing I'm stuck on! Suggestions anyone?
only things i can think of that i had as options, were custom one from crane cams or a place that does billet cranks..... yea i know expensive....bump that.
second was cryo first, drill and carve/knife edge and lighten second, nitride third. cant go to extreme, but can shave a lb or few.
third factors... if you really want a stroker, check some of the big time places, crane cams, elgin cams, comp cams, find out who does stroker cranks. see if you can work one on one with someone you can feed info to on the specs, and then see if you can get your own made or modified.
Thanks for the info and are the c/f doors seriously no good? Well I do guess shaving off alot on a stock door would do just as much good!
N2O + Bolt-ons
= 220Hp/
250Tq
Coming Soon:HpTunersPro, EagleConnectingRods, WiescoPistons, 13sec2200
Bballjamal (Cav-AtL) wrote:Thanks for the info and are the c/f doors seriously no good? Well I do guess shaving off alot on a stock door would do just as much good!
hey if you can find someone to make you one, and prob making an all out race car cause i;d def opt not to use those for accident potential reasons, if you can save the weight, go for it.
yup you can do some stuff with the stock doors believe it or not.
sacrifice of the speakers, along with the plastic panels for a thing aluminum sheet metal. its not much, i;ve seen it done, helped rivet aluminum rivets aswell, but it can add up, once the panels, rear seat, and rear back rest part comes off in favor for smaller and single seating arrangements. doesnt even have to be a racing seat. a pillow per concave seating area, and a small back rest cushion will provide a seating arrangement and seatbelts for 2 rear passengers, then you have the rear panels....
just some things i;ve seen done and helped do.
Quote:
third factors... if you really want a stroker, check some of the big time places, crane cams, elgin cams, comp cams, find out who does stroker cranks. see if you can work one on one with someone you can feed info to on the specs, and then see if you can get your own made or modified.
??? Cam shops for cranks???
Crower, Lunati, Hank the Crank...
An old time way, but still used, is to weld up the crank pin then offset grind it to increase stroke. It gets expensive. A drag racer's trick is to turn the crank toaccept the smallest bearings possible to reduce frictional losses. Larger fillet radii add strength but make fitting bearings a little more of a challenge. Depending on how large the fillet is machined, narrow bearings may be in order. A newer trick is rolling the fillet, which doesn't require narrow bearings but can't be done by an average machine shop.
Who's nitriding cranks? For a while, both nitride and tufftride processes were hard to find due to hazardous chemicals and the EPA not playing nice together.
Oil control around the crank is veery important. Windage trays/ screens should be used to minimize losses due to an oil mist clinging to the crank. Knife edging is another of the tricks used to help the crank shed this mist.
One of these days I'll fire up the scanner and capture 26 pages worth of advice from GM on building the 2.0, lil brother to the 2.2, for racing. Most of the part #'s are no good now, but the information and machining instructions will be helpful.
-->Slow
-->Slow
how the HELL did I miss this post?
yea headwork really wakes the OHV up a lot
I pull even with 2.4s and ecos constantly from a roll and put up a decent fight from a dig
the higher revs let them hold gears longer which means come shift time I lose ground
my best e/t is 15.769 @ 85.57mph
my best 60' is 2.20
my best 1/8 is 10.043 @ 69.06mph
mods:
RSM intake
motor mounts
tranny mounts
B&M short shifter
port n polish
5 angle valve job
stainless steel back cut valves (stock diam)
silicon race springs
chromoly push rods
MSD ignition
Magnecore wires
NGK iridium spark plugs
4:1 header
2.25" exhaust front to rear
no cat
twin cans on the back
I'm looking to redo my exhaust soon, and I'm not going to be all motor very much longer....
I have a log manifold, a turbo cam, and am currently hunting down a T3 super 60 turbo
I have some more mods to do before I go turbo tho such as a larger TB and roller rockers... as well as a lightened flywheel and grabbier clutch (mine's shot)
expect a 15.4 or lower very soon... had full interior on all those 15s too.
Here's some VIDEOS
RIGHT CLICK SAVE AS
This is of me racing my girlfriend in her 05 ecotec 5 speed. she's a DAMN good driver (her current best is 15.2 @ 89mph)and cuts a 15.4 to my 15.9 but I BEAT HER to the line by a fender since I left her for dead off the tree
PJ vs Mandy
Here's my best e/t to date... i'm getting waxed by a camaro SS
Da Flying SKwirl... 15.76 OHV
slowolej wrote:Quote:
third factors... if you really want a stroker, check some of the big time places, crane cams, elgin cams, comp cams, find out who does stroker cranks. see if you can work one on one with someone you can feed info to on the specs, and then see if you can get your own made or modified.
??? Cam shops for cranks???
Crower, Lunati, Hank the Crank...
reason i suggested that, is to find out who does stroker cranks, the cam shops above are usually making custom cams to go along with stroker engines and such. figured they would be able to point you in to who to go with or who they prefer
Quote:
Who's nitriding cranks? For a while, both nitride and tufftride processes were hard to find due to hazardous chemicals and the EPA not playing nice together.
just check with local coating and metal finishing places in the yellow pages. i know the hinge pins and shock shafts on my newest r/c car are titanium nitrided, so its still done.
If you are looking for a custom crank, try Moldex
. Its around $1500 for a custom forged crank.
. You will need atleast $700 for a deposit.
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
