send your head to JBP, they have amazing welders there. im sure they can do it inexpensively.
Well, I don't exactly feel confident in JBP, for a multitude of reasons.
1. Took 3 months to get block when it originally was only going to take 3 weeks.
2. They had the block done, but they took a few more weeks to ship out.
3. Frgot to ship the lifters with the block, and when they said they'd ship it express the next day it took a week to ship, and when it did go out, it was regular shipping.
As for info on the head, its f'ed up. cracked in 3 places inbetween the intake valve and the spark plug hole at all 3 places, i'll have pics up when i feel like it. I am not sure how the cracks got there, but they were there before the head was run meaning they either came with the head, and the paint which i cleaned off before the install covered them up. (i didn't notice them even after I took the paint off) OR, when the larger valve seats and 3 angle valve job were installed by a local place, which seemed like they did good work, but dun have prior experience, only what local people have said which is all good things. (I have the 1mm oversized valves) So, right now, i'm looking at maybe getting a patriot head with the port and polish only. Then transfer all my valve components over. But i'll cryotreat the head for strength, and then get the valve seats and angle valve job done for the larger valves.
Second issue. My cylinder wall on the farthest right is also f'ed up. There are 2 large gouges going the entire distance of the way down the side of the cylinder. I showed it to a mechanic i trust, and knows his stuff, and he thinks the rings did it. They are huge and deep. I have a pic, but its still in the camera. I need to talk to j-body performance about that, cause that is messed up if it ends up being that as the reason. So, i'm kinda upset at jbodyperformance at the moment, even thought they are probably good people, i have had only bad experiences. Anyways, I completely have no time anymore, because i gradate in 12 hours, and then will be pre-occupied with my girlfriend's graduation, and her parents for 3 weeks. I DO NOT want to dish out the money to fix this block if its not my fault. I'm broke as it is, and I support myself. Does anyone know if someone makes .040 over pistons for my car? 2.2 ohv... :"(
because to get rid of that gouge, its going to have to be bored out more. its already at .020 over from jbody performance.
Ok, sorry to write a paper, i'll post later. comments and suggestions are always welcomed.
Here's a pic of the cylinder. As Abood just pointed out to me, it starts right about where one of the rings would be at its maximum height.
Damn, Sorry about the bad luck, was looking forward to see how it performed.
Hopefully they can fix this for ya.
Those gouges look much deeper than .01" deep...... I feel your pain.
- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
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VT, sorry to hear man. worst comes to worst, check with total seal. with the measurements of the ring gaps, they should be able to get you something in that size.
i know they did rings for my custom pistons, but do custom sizes as well.
Wow... I feel your pain.... all that work and all that money. Hope everything turns out ok
Wow. Those are some serious ring gouges. I'm sure you can get custom pistons built if you bore it. Dang, man. I was really looking forward to seeing some numbers on that motor. Here's hoping you can get it all worked out soon. Hopefully you're not left out of pocket.
I may not be the sharpest crayon in the box, but at least I'm a pretty color
Wow, sorry to hear that man. I was thinking of buying some things from JBP, i hope i dont run into trouble like you did.
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Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I just wanted to put in here that it was the wrist pin that slid out, and that's what caused those parallel lines up and down the cylinder wall. I had to get it sleeved, which is getting done now. The shop said it looked like the tips of the rods had been exposed to some major heat. I looked back on these pics, and you can clearly see even before the engine was run, the ends of the rods look like a torch was put to them. That seems a bit shotty. Unless their heat treated.... anyways. I bought new eagle H-beam rods, and am waiting a new flywheel, so my machine shop can balance the whole rotating assembly. Then, I'll finally be able to put this back together, and enjoy some driving in Northern Virginia.
SO i am guess JBP is not backing there work?
Sorry to hear about the bad luck : (
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They did say I could send it back to them, and if it was their fault they would fix it and pay for the shipping that i had paid to get it to them, etc. That really seemed like a hassle, especially since i wasn't gaurenteed it would be fixed, and it did take them 3 months to get it to me in the first place, so i had doubts about the length of time it would take them. Althought it probably would have been faster, then just letting it site for about 8 months.... regaurdless, it's in the past, i do think other then that rod sliding out the block is in excellent shape,
Well, that's cool that they're fixing it. This might be a noob question, but how did you put your roller rockers on? Can you just take off your valve cover, unbolt the stock ones and bolt the roller rockers on?
Good luck with getting your stuff fixed.
RandomGuy 171 wrote:Well, that's cool that they're fixing it. This might be a noob question, but how did you put your roller rockers on? Can you just take off your valve cover, unbolt the stock ones and bolt the roller rockers on?
They're not the ones fixing it...
There's always been something flaky about JBP, but I've never been able to figure out what. Any competant machine shop could do just as good of a job as them with all this stuff, I don't see any reason to be paying for all these shipping charges if it's not necessary.
As far as the roller rockers...you've got thebasic idea. Now, check out the STICKY for the rest of the procedure.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Wrist pin SLID OUT?? I've NEVER heard of that.... sounds more like "wrist pin was never properly pressed in to begin with"!! There's NO side-side load on a wrist pin that should cause it to slide out and have enough force to gouge the cylinder walls like that.... JBP f-ed that one up plain and simple. I would have sent it back to them, but i can also see why you didn't... but for the amount they charged you, i'd want to make them pay for screwing the pooch.
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Everything LOOKED real good, very sorry to see your block gouged up like that. Hope you don't run into any other problems getting this on the road.
15.3 @ 89.97mph, 14's on the way?
thank for the support guy, and input. I alo hope to move on, and not have a problem. I'm going to be re-doing my wiring for my PLX wideband unit, and put all the extra wires into the factory wiring harness while I wait for the engine to get done, then move on to my turbo intall.
VTLoki wrote: The shop said it looked like the tips of the rods had been exposed to some major heat. I looked back on these pics, and you can clearly see even before the engine was run, the ends of the rods look like a torch was put to them. That seems a bit shotty. Unless their heat treated.....
Are the wrist pins press fit? If so, it is often done by heating the small end of the rods, to make them expand and putting the wrist pins in a freezer(or on dry ice) ton make them contract. The pins will drop right in and when the temps equalize they become a friction fit.
The thing here is, if the shop that did the work heated the metal to the point of blueing(discoloration) then they heated them too hot and/or too fast and the metal won't contract nearly enough to form the friction fit, needed to hold the wrist pin. It only take enough heat to barely melt solder to do this correctly, such as with a propane torch,or a oxy-acetaline torch turned way down low. This also has to be done slowly and precisly, to prevent disruption of the metal's grain structure.
By the sounds of it the probably heated the rod ends too fast with an oxy-acetaline torch turned up too high!
Another note to go with that last post, there are also special ovens that are designed to heat the rod ends much more precisely and hold the temps in the correct range to do this.
i was thnking about getting heads from them but after seeing allt his it makes me worried about it.
real sorry to hear about your bad luck man
hopefully this year turns out to be alright for ya.
JBP sucks
stevefire wrote:real sorry to hear about your bad luck man
hopefully this year turns out to be alright for ya.
JBP sucks
Thanks steve, I think things will be better this year.
MadJack wrote: Another note to go with that last post, there are also special ovens that are designed to heat the rod ends much more precisely and hold the temps in the correct range to do this.
Ya, I thought something like this existed. I guess JBP doesn't have one. but ya, they must have heated it up way too much, and/or too fast. Either way, i should have the new one all back together in just a few weeks. As soon as my flywheel shows up from fidanza, they can balance the whole rotating assembly, and then asseble it all.
MadJack wrote:Another note to go with that last post, there are also special ovens that are designed to heat the rod ends much more precisely and hold the temps in the correct range to do this.
lol special ovens... i've known guys who did it in their normal kitchen ovens... but apparently someone at JBP thought they needed an extra 1500 degrees or so.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
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VTLoki wrote:As soon as my flywheel shows up from fidanza, they can balance the whole rotating assembly, and then asseble it all.
The flywheel should already be pretty darn balanced, and the engine is internally balanced, so what do you need the flywheel for?
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
What the #$@% is in the air around Toronto? Sorry but first RSM and now JBP both companys claim to be professionals at what they do. Fast service etc.etc.But if you have a problem with what they have done you have to kiss there #$@ and spend more of your money to fix a error they have made.Sorry to jack your thread but this kind of crap should never happen.Do not let JBP off the hook so easy. Try and collect some or all of the costs for the repairs you have had to make. Only a dumb ass would over heat a forged rod that way. Get the installation specs. from the manufacture of your rods pins and pistons.I know they will not recommend that you heat the rods to the point they turn blue. No doubt any warranty on those rods would be null and void. Send pictures to the rod manufacture ask them if this is ok? Sorry for the rant but to many guys are getting ripped off with this sort of thing.
Best of luck now go kick some butt!
Chris Orr
Thats Him Officer The WICKED One.
