has anyone had to change the chain and tensioner on their 2200? I can find them all day for the 96 2.2 but the 1999 chain set is being difficult to find. Is there any difference? let me know
also the car has 92k on is i havent noticed it rattling any, but i would say it is do for the new timing set soon.
honestly, i wouldn't replace it untill it starts making noise.
If you still decide to change it, I've had the best luck with the GM tensioner in my 97 (the old ohv). <br>
i have changed a timing set and ten. on a my 96 car. i am putting a 99 engine and trans in my 97 car. I have the engine out and just thought that i would do it while it was on the floor.
My question is:
Is the timing chain and ten.between the 90's-97 2.2 and the 1998-2002 2200 different?
shouldnt be, its the same block....
local autoparts stores sell em.... if not they can order em... <br>
94-02 timing chains and sprockets are the same.
<br>
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
how often are u supposed to change the chain? <br>
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/h8hondaz/sig.jpg">
When it starts making noises
<br>
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
I apologize for brining this post back from the dead, but what kind of noise does a timing chain make when it takes a crap?
like a bike chain being swung around in a tin can kind of sound? cuz yea, I got that
I've read its kind of a ticking, during startup. and goes away once some oil gets in there. its suppose to be from the chain hitting the housing.
not 100% on that though.
if you think your getting any kinda noise from it i would replace it....
if it comes apart it could cause major issues..
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One more time, please... for clarity:
Has anyone had trouble removing the cover on a '99-up LN2? I'm right in the middle of replacing the chain on mine & although all the cover bolts & nuts I see are off, I can't pull it loose. Is there a bolt hidden behind the integral accessory drive belt tensioner that I've missed?
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Nickelin Dimer wrote:One more time, please... for clarity:
Has anyone had trouble removing the cover on a '99-up LN2? I'm right in the middle of replacing the chain on mine & although all the cover bolts & nuts I see are off, I can't pull it loose. Is there a bolt hidden behind the integral accessory drive belt tensioner that I've missed?
That one got me too. Pull the studs out of the bottom (through oil pan).
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That's it!? Shoot, that's what happened naturally when I did it on my '94! But, if you say so Notec, I'll take your word.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
I think there is also a bolt behind the tensioner.
VTLoki wrote:I've read its kind of a ticking, during startup. and goes away once some oil gets in there. its suppose to be from the chain hitting the housing.
not 100% on that though.
I hadn't herd this before, my fiancee's 2000 has been doing this. I thought it was a main so I have been looking for another engine. I just changed the timing chain not to long back. I might check this out this weekend and see if the timing chain may infact be the culprit.
Ronnie (SpeedLabMotorsports) wrote:VTLoki wrote:I've read its kind of a ticking, during startup. and goes away once some oil gets in there. its suppose to be from the chain hitting the housing.
not 100% on that though.
I hadn't herd this before, my fiancee's 2000 has been doing this. I thought it was a main so I have been looking for another engine. I just changed the timing chain not to long back. I might check this out this weekend and see if the timing chain may infact be the culprit.
Did you also change the tensioner?
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Yeah, you gotta change the tensioner with it because that's what leads to the failure. Also, don't use anything outside of Cloyes, Dynagear or the factory if you do because the cheap sets will fail you sooner then expected (Damn cheapo rebuilders!).
BTW: You were right, Benham. After I removed the studs it still wouldn't budge, so I felt behind the belt tensioner & found the point of the tensioner's center-bolt. Un-did that & found one last bolt for the cover. It's pretty much together now, but I've gotta go get a tap to redo the threads on the crank's center-bolt because it got booger'd somehow during re-assembly. At least I was able to start the engine to check if all up to that was okay. Thanks guys.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
