Ok here it goes I just got done replacing the water pump cause it quit during winter of all times. Now I think it's acting up again the temp gauge when its high its a notch below the 3/4 red mark but soon as I start traveling with higher rpm it goes back down. I did notice when I did replace it that the bleeder valve was broken off so I couldn't do that properly. I'm wondering if either there's air still in it how to get rid of the air without the bleeder valve or if it's the water pump again. Thanks Brian
fix the bleeder first its cheaper and should get the air out
JBO since July 30, 2001
I broke mine, over-tightened it.
Can it be removed easily with a screw extractor without removing the pipe?
Everything said I just don't understand why it wants to try and overheat that's my concern
the thermostat is new also?
Check to make sure cooling fans are comming on. If you live in warmer climate then when not moving or moving slow then there is no air going through the radiator so it heats up, when you move faster the movement of the car forces air through the radiator and cools it back down. The fans are supposed to come on at a preset temp. If there not then that could be the problem.
The fans don't kick on until the temp gets up there on the dummy gauge. If it isn't actually overheating, I wouldn't worry about it.
2000 Ford F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 - Not stock
1973 16' Tahiti Speedboat
1983 200 HP Mercury BlackMax
1997 Chevy Cavalier with 275K miles
Yea its a new thermostat did that when i replaced the water pump for good measure. and yes the fan comes on after the second knoch after the half way mark
If you put a new pump and thermostat then you opened the system and it's very likely that there are bad air pockets since your bleeder screw was not removed when you refilled the system. The radiator and a/c cooler need to be clean also.
That's just my idea, really I don't know but that's probably why they just had to build a bleeder screw and installed it there. If that line is full of air maybe there are also air pockets in many other places as well?
Also I think these cars do have a pressure cap on the overflow, even though they're screw-on type.
If true, then shouldn't they be replaced every so many years for good measure?
I might do that myself, get a brand new pressure cap. Oh, and when you bought the thermostat is it 180F? At least that's what my 97 2.2 5speed takes, a 180F.
There is also an air dam rubber under the front bumper, which is all broken on mine I should put a new one on soon.
well new development the thick hose that comes from top of the radiator is flat no idea why and what causes it that's the second time now this has happen i'm beginning to think that the radiator itself has a block or something in itcausing it to do these things
