With HP Tuners, does the TPS read 0% with the throttle closed? Try egg shaping the holes, and Adj. it till it read 0% with HPT.
At what RPM does the car idle at?
Check the Vac line for the Map sensor..... the OEM one likes to crack, and cause stalling.
Take a drive and log the file..... I'd be interested in taking a look at it. (and a copy of your tune)
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
could be your break booster it's self.......
2000 z24 Cavalier
I get great fuel PSI all the time. Speedracer, I will see what I can do to get you that file. I checked the map line and it seems ok, but you never know. I will go ahead and replace it. The TPS does read 0 with the throttle closed. the car idles at 900 with the air off and 1000 with the air on with a MAP reading of 8 with air off and 10 with air on.
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
Leaking brake booster would cause a higher idle, and you should be able to hear it....... easy way to tell. Start engine, let it idle for a few seconds. Shut car off, let sit for a minute. Pull the line/valve off the booster. Pull right off with no noise, or "POP" off?
I've seen people replace the map vac line with "silicone" tubing (fancy colored crap), and it will actually suck closed when the throttle plate closes, and cause the car to die. Try tracing that one down!!!
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Did the test. i started the car, ran it for about 3-4 minutes, ideling then turned it off. let it sit for about 15-30 seconds and pulled the hose off at the brake booster, and nothing, it did not pop. did I do something wrong or should I try it again to make sure, but it seems to me the BB is done, right?
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
pump the brakes with the car running, then turn it off and listen for a pressure release. Do the rpms drop off to the point where it is killing the engine?
I would say go ahead and change the booster, deffinatly seems like the problem... You stop ie put you foot on the break and the car dies, it seems like it's not holding vacume... They arn't too hard to change,.... disconnect the master cylinder from booster ( you don't need to take any of the brake lines off), then ther are three bolts under the instrument pannel securing it to the fire wall, romove them and it should come right out.... when your putting the new one back on you might have to adjust your push rod and brake light switch....
2000 z24 Cavalier
Hi,
Before spending more money on a booster, just clamp off the large vacuum line to the booster with a pair of hose pinch pliers or (gasp) vise grips, just don't cut the hose with the teeth. Now go for a drive and see how things work, just keep in mind you will have no power assisted brakes on the drive.
That will eliminate or confirm the booster as the problem.
Dave
I had a similar problem when i had my cavalier. It turned out to be one of the hoses running from the TB had a small hole in it. I replaced it and the car ran like a charm. A $2 fix, my would stall put out black smoke etc..
2004 Grand Prix GTP (Competition Group)
SOLD-->1999 Z24 5M-#30 to register on JBO
"You can please some of the people some of the time but you can't please all the people'
all the time
Its the Vac line for the HVAC Control/Doors.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
OEM wrote:So should I go ahead and replace the BB?
thats your call bud...as said before, I'd test the coolant temp sensor first. Did you replace the vac line running to the map as Brian suggested?
OEM wrote:Replaced the IACV, no luck. I put a stock throttle body plate back in the car and it stall at ever light. Any ideas? When I disconnect the 02, the car runs perfect.
Did you use generic IAC sensor or AC/Delco?
From my personal expiriance, the generic one was total crap.
Also you (may) want to remove the negative cable for a minute so you can reset the computer.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
It's not just 2.4s, i have a 2.0 ohc with the same problem, and my in-law has a park ave with the problem too. H ave you checked the inside of your fuel pump relay socket for tar?
Ok, I actually disconnect the Brake booster line and caped it off. I went for a drive with no brakes basically and the problem was still there, so I guess its not the BB. I also noticed that when I scanned the car the code 141 came up, the rear 02. I though I had that deleted with my tune, but it comes up every time I scan the car.
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
OEM wrote:Ok, I actually disconnect the Brake booster line and caped it off. I went for a drive with no brakes basically and the problem was still there, so I guess its not the BB. I also noticed that when I scanned the car the code 141 came up, the rear 02. I though I had that deleted with my tune, but it comes up every time I scan the car.
Dude you do not fing listen. I told you the code will always pull up, but it WILL NOT TURN THE CEL ON.
Also if you going to state the code do it right. P0141!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, March 14, 2009 8:18 PM
FU Tuning
i had a similar problem in my 2.2, the IAT sensor went bad. Changed it out and it worked fine since. But that was my 2.2ohv so probably a whole diferent story. Also, did you ever check your timing? if your chain jumped a tooth or 2 you might similar symptoms. Just my .02
