I got my cams in, and now im to the point to re-install the timing chain. The colored links that are mentioned in darkstars right up, just wont line up. Will i run into a problem if i put the motor at TDC, intake cam facing 2 o clock, exhaust cam facing 10 o clock, and just put the chain on will i be fine? Or does anyone know of another way to get my chain on and the car timed right. Its sitting in the garage waiting, because i dont feel like my valves hitting the pistons. Someone PLEASE help me out, as i would like to get my car running by monday so i can goto work
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i let a shop install my cams and when the messed up the timing, a vavle was hitting a piston which they had to take to machine shop and fix (the shop payed all the mahine shop expenses.. got my valves adjusted and cleaned for free.. hehe) but they fixed it
and stock timing is the best (from what i head)
good luck though, and sorry i couldn't help
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2208703
ok this is from the haynes repair book. it says the copper link must align with the INT on the intake camshaft and the silver link with the EXH on the exhaust camshaft. also the round dot (alignment mark) on the sprocket should be in the 5 o clock position. when installing the chain, one of the silver plated links must be aligned with this dot. on the pic it shows, the dot is in the middle of the two on the siver link on the timing chain. also the diomond shaped hole on the intake cam should be in the 12 o clock position. i hope this will help you out some i got work in the morning or i would help more but if you have any more questions i have this book i can look it up for you or you can pick one up for around 17.00
well the links on mine were green and 2 red. you set the crank mark (white dot on the crank timing gear) to 5 o'clock and the INT to 2 or 3 o' clock (whatever it says.) You put the two red links on those marks. After those are aligned, and with a friend holding that in place, slide the EXH cam gear onto the cam and make sure its aligned to about 10 o'clock. Insert tensioner making sure it releases outward and puts tension on the chain.
And as I just found out from experience, and will have pics to prove it, watch out for the damn cam gears. Mine appears to have sheered the alignment teeth off the intake cam somehow.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
you do have the side cover off right? If not take it off.
Now to time it the white dot on the crank (on the toothed gear one tooth has a white dot) goes straight down, the diamond on the intake cam goes toward 2 o'clock mark, triangle on the exhuast cam goes towards 10 o'clockthere are 3 colored links on the timing chain, rotate the chain intill the 3 colored links line up with the 3 timing marks (white dot tooth on crank, diamond tooth on intake, triangle tooth on exhaust) Personally heres how I do it... line up the crank mark on the chain, then line up the exhaust cam mark and the chain, take the intake cam gear off, and line it up on the gear then roate the gear upwards to the cam.... if it doesn't seem to reach either turn the crank counter clockwiseon the exhaust cam clockwise, either way just a very little bit, by doing this you put all the slack in the chain on the side of the intake cam, then slide the gear on, a 15/16 wrench comes in handy to physically turn the cam itself just a litte bit to get the teeth to lock in. (The cam gears will one fit ONE way, they are notched so you can't really put the gear on wrong) once you have the gear back on check to make sure the all the links are lined up with the timing marks, if the aren;t go back and do it again, if they are lined up gently turn the crank just a tiny bit clockwise, becarefull because it WILL jump teeth how it sitting at this point, you bump the crank over to takeall the loose tension in the chain and put it on the back side of the engine, it will make it a million times easier for the next step which is puting the chain tensioner bolt back in the head. Triple check the colored links and the timing marks and just to be safe turn the engine over by hand at least 2 full crank revolutions.
!!!!!! IMPORTANT NOTE !!!!!!
once you turn your engine over by hand the colored links and the timing marks will not line back up after spinning the engine over... there is a ton of links on the chain and very few teeth on the crank..... comon sence would tell you if you spin the crank which has (MAKING UP A NUMBERS JUST TO GET THE POINT ACROSS) 20 teeth .... that the the chain that has 300 links is not gonna make a full roatation, its only gonna rotate the 20 links it took for the engine to turn over.... eventually if you spin the engine long enough they will come back and line up but don't sit there expecting them to. Seems like common sence but I get asked that ALOT by people.
Well I got it timed, and the car runs...BUT the crank pulley seal leaks oil pretty bad. Hopefully i can source one tomorrow. When i pulled that side casing off, the spring in that seal was loose and messed up a little bit, pretty sure thats the problem.
this may sound stupid but go and made sure the pulley is almost flat up against teh side of the case, there should only be 1/4" clearance if that, if the pulley is not seated all the way it will leak like mad
It seems like you are all set, but HCI had an article on this a few months back. Maybe tomorrow I'll get it out of my car and find out which issue that was.
"We ride together. We die together. Bad boys for life."
Darkstars wrote:this may sound stupid but go and made sure the pulley is almost flat up against teh side of the case, there should only be 1/4" clearance if that, if the pulley is not seated all the way it will leak like mad
Its less then a 1/4", thats about where i had it but didnt want to tighten down on it too hard, but after a few people confirmed that the crank would most likely turn before letting the bolt snap, i continued a few more turns on the pulley and got it tight with close to probably an 1/8" of clearance and no leaks. The car runs great, got about 60-70 miles on em tonight, before putting them in i ran a few tanks of 92-93, and thats what ill be running with the cams. I also have the knock sensor cushion that im going to install this week when i change my oil. But I have some normal driving, stop and go, and some highway along with a good amount of idling and no CEL yet...but we shall see. Thanks for the help everyone btw!!
where are the cams from, and what specs?
Phlatcav wrote:where are the cams from, and what specs?
These are the LZM Stage 2's. I have seen these cams work flawlessly in person, so i decided to give em a shot since i got them for 200 bucks. So far so good, I think a lot of people were having issues due to them not being installed correctly, which is why i wanted to do it myself and not bring it to a shop. But only time will tell once the computer starts learning everything again. I had the battery disconnected all weekend, and im going to hook up a tech-2 and reset the cam position sensor if possible. Ill keep people updated as how the car runs, and if I get CEL and what they are for, lets pray it stays good.
HCI
volume 6
number 12
December
"We ride together. We die together. Bad boys for life."
nwcavi wrote:Phlatcav wrote:where are the cams from, and what specs?
These are the LZM Stage 2's. I have seen these cams work flawlessly in person, so i decided to give em a shot since i got them for 200 bucks. So far so good, I think a lot of people were having issues due to them not being installed correctly, which is why i wanted to do it myself and not bring it to a shop. But only time will tell once the computer starts learning everything again. I had the battery disconnected all weekend, and im going to hook up a tech-2 and reset the cam position sensor if possible. Ill keep people updated as how the car runs, and if I get CEL and what they are for, lets pray it stays good.
we dont have a cam position sensor...
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
there is a cam position COUNTER though in the software. Weird as that is
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
I think he measnt eh crank sensor, you can relearn thecrank sensor
Darkstars wrote:I think he measnt eh crank sensor, you can relearn thecrank sensor
yes, i was tired and made a typo. As for the cams, ive let the car idle over 20 minutes, i have driven another 60-70 miles on em and still no CEL and it seems like the more i drive it the harder its pulling. Definetely not a 15whp gain, but its quite noticable and more fun to drive now. Next is a safc-ii and trim some fuel back here and there
