I am going into the Air Force soon and getting married. After I save up some money for a few months I have been toying with the idea of dropping an L67 into my girlfriends 96 Z24 automatic. Even in stock 240 hp form that has to be one hell of a quick cavi. I would then get some BFG Comp T/A DR's for the front. With a pulley, intake, custom exhaust (well it will have to be right off the bat), underdrives, 160 t-stat, a chip, a 2400 rpm convertor and a shift kit, I would think that I could probably get it up to about 270 hp. Then shoot about a 100 shot of nitrous on it. That should be good for some 12 second timeslips and will really be a handful for the unsuspecting mustang or f-body.

I don't really want to do this myself. I'd rather pay someone to do the actual swap, but I will purchase the motor and tranny, wiring harness and computer. For gauges I could make a custom panel to fit in the stock dash location and use autometer phantom gauges.

Then think if you ported the supercharger, got an intercooler, or did an M112 swap.... We could be talking about an 11 second Cavy that may still be able to use the stock hood. Talk about a money maker on the strip and a total sleeper.

If I have $5000 do you think that would cover the swap? I would probably toss in bigger injectors and a huge 255lph fuel pump right off the bat.

If the subframe needs to be modified I don't want to do it myself.

Scott
2002 Audi S4, black
1996 Z24 auto, red

Raven is the one to talk to... or do what I prefer to call a Search



I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

with only a 100 shot and that 3800 s/c you're looking at 11's if I'm not mistaking.



15.574 @ 89 mph stock

DanteMustDie wrote:with only a 100 shot and that 3800 s/c you're looking at 11's if I'm not mistaking.

yes. but you'll most likely have to tube the front of the car, and you will never put any of that to the ground without drag radials or slicks.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

there are (and will be more) much easier/cheaper ways of hiting 11's..



Sven you totally quarterloafed your computer..

Build the right ecotec or LD9, turbocharge it and you can be in the 11's and probably save yourself some money for a decent suspension.

Jrobz23 wrote:there are (and will be more) much easier/cheaper ways of hiting 11's..

absolutely. like the ebay resistor chips. you put in like 80 of them and you'll be into the 11s in no time.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

Jrobz23 wrote:there are (and will be more) much easier/cheaper ways of hiting 11's..

That's a pretty bold statement... I don't know any J-bodies that are daily driven that do 11's. And I know (read: have humped) a LOT of j-bodies.

well if I can get a set of axles made to hold up to the power, I could get my Z24 into the 11's. Doesn't MT make a set of 23x8x14" ET Streets or something like that.??? I would put a LSD in the front and get some lightweight rims for the track.

Have you seen the 10.3 second turbo GTP, maybe later ditch the blower and put on a turbo..... wow.

Scott
2002 Audi S4, black
1996 Z24 auto, red

Scott Long wrote:well if I can get a set of axles made to hold up to the power, I could get my Z24 into the 11's. Doesn't MT make a set of 23x8x14" ET Streets or something like that.??? I would put a LSD in the front and get some lightweight rims for the track.

Have you seen the 10.3 second turbo GTP, maybe later ditch the blower and put on a turbo..... wow.

i just might be able to help you out with that. how does a set of Driveshaft Shop Level 3 axles, upgraded to 300rr metal with heat treated hubs and ARP wheel studs sound?




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

wow. I think its the initial hit that destroys the axle shafts. If you are on street tires you might be ok since they will just spin, but with slicks, they will stick, and that initial hit of power plus grip is what will either brake the cv joint, or shear the axles off where the spline into the transmission or the wheel hubs.

What kind of price are we talking and will they still be available say next summer?

Right now the car is apart because I'm working on the timing chain tensioner replacement.

Scott
2002 Audi S4, black
1996 Z24 auto, red

I like the ET Streets because they will wrinkle a tad to soften the impact but they still will give you a killer 60 ft. if you heat them up and have the right pressure in them.

Scott
2002 Audi S4, black
1996 Z24 auto, red

There are 3800`s running mid 9`s now..... NEARLY streetable and a few running very low 11`s on the street, anything is possible.

I don't need a 9-second J-Body that is insane, it'd have to have all kind of reinforcements.... But is a daily driven Z24 that is capable of 11's on slicks too much to ask for. I'd have so much fun smacking down these big wing and fart pipe guys around here plus I'd call out a few F-Body's and a Z06 that thinks he runs @!#$ around here. Just to prove a point. I mean c'mon, an 11 second J. Stock hood (maybe fiberglass it), no body kit, stock wheels (with some drag radials in the front), lowered, tinted windows to hide the race seats and harnesses. I might even get a carbon fiber trunk and have it painted to look stock. I like being lightweight, race ready, and low key. To the average car that passes me on the street they'll think its just another tinted and lowered rice burner. I might even run a single 3" exhaust on it. So that it looks like it would be a 4 cylinder still.

Scott
2002 Audi S4, black
1996 Z24 auto, red

Scott Long wrote:I don't need a 9-second J-Body that is insane, it'd have to have all kind of reinforcements.... But is a daily driven Z24 that is capable of 11's on slicks too much to ask for. I'd have so much fun smacking down these big wing and fart pipe guys around here plus I'd call out a few F-Body's and a Z06 that thinks he runs @!#$ around here. Just to prove a point. I mean c'mon, an 11 second J. Stock hood (maybe fiberglass it), no body kit, stock wheels (with some drag radials in the front), lowered, tinted windows to hide the race seats and harnesses. I might even get a carbon fiber trunk and have it painted to look stock. I like being lightweight, race ready, and low key. To the average car that passes me on the street they'll think its just another tinted and lowered rice burner. I might even run a single 3" exhaust on it. So that it looks like it would be a 4 cylinder still.

Trust me you might look like a another rice burner but you sure as hell won't sound like one. As far as axles go, you don't need them. Stock axles will work just fine. I have been running the same set for two years now and haven't snapped one yet.



Quoth the Raven 'Nevermore
raven@accesswave.ca
Raven Autosports
55 McQuade Lake Cres,
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
(902) 850-3330
10.82@132

thats good to know. what kind of tires do you have on your car? have you ever taken it to a dyno or track?


Scott
2002 Audi S4, black
1996 Z24 auto, red

ravan. i just want to say i love your car. its really sweet.


"IF YOU PERSIST IN DOING WHAT YOU HAVE ALWAYS DONE .....
EXPECT RESULTS NO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY ACHIEVED"

Raven weren't/aren't you trying to sell you Cavalier? How much do you want for it and where are you located? Have you ever raced it or put it on a dyno?

I found a complete L67 engine and trans for $1000.00 and I might be able to get the computer and harness to go with it. I believe it came out of a totalled Regal GS circa 1999.

Man if I had someone close by that could help with this I'd be all about doing it myself but I have never used anything but a stationary floor mount spot welder in metal shop class years ago. I know the subframe needs an extension welded to it, but I don't know the first thing about welding.

If I didn't just lose my job last week I'd buy that engine and tranny right now. But now I have to watch the spending till I find work.

Anyhow I still want to do this swap in the next year or so, so all the info I can get will be great.


Scott
2002 Audi S4, black
1996 Z24 auto, red

Hey scott 1000 for a series 2 engine and trans is a pretty good deal. You dont' want the somputer or harness though you wanna use the harness and ecm from a 94 95 series one engine. You still get OBDII operation but they are way simpler to tune. You have to eliminate the passkey, and set the computer to output the right ppm for your speedo as well as a few other little things costs 40 bucks to have all that done. I'm not sure exactually how close the 4t40 is to the 4t65 but mounts shouldn't be to much of a problem. If your really worried about the axles you can run 93 SSEI axles with J body outers on them. There are a lot of little details your gonna encounter but nothing to major. I'm not a j body expert but i know the 3800's like the back of my hand so if your interested in having some one do the swap or atleast helping you out let me know. I'm in northern ohio.


85 fiero GT 3800 sc swap in progress
98 Sunfire 4.9 and AWD swap in progress
85 S-10 turbocharged 3800
83 Citation x-11 turbocharged 3.1 with AWD 6000 running gear SOLD
94 Bonneville SLE daily driver
94 Bonneville SSEi wifes pearl pink daily driver
93 Bonneville SSEi I duno why
94 Bonneville SSEi parts for the rest of them

Ok thanks for the reply when the time gets closer to do this I will let you know.

My girlfriend wants to sell the Z24 and buy a Camaro SS but I want to keep the Z for myself as a daily driver. If I get to keep it which I probably will since we won't get @!#$ for trade in value on it (unless she decides to sell it outright) then I will keep it. I might just tell her if she lets me keep it I'll help her out with a downpayment on an SS when she is ready to buy one.

Then I'd start buying the stuff I'll need for the swap such as the L67 engine, the 4t65e, the computer I need, the harness I need, not to mention maybe a cam and roller rockers and a blower pulley for the L67.

Hopefully by this time next year I'll be driving my own L67 Z24 and be running in the 12 or 11 second range in the 1/4 mile. It would be a blast to beat her SS with a Z24.


Scott
2002 Audi S4, black
1996 Z24 auto, red

jesus christ.
why don't you just buy an old beat up camaro and save yourself some trouble? you can pick up an 80's model for a couple thousand dollars. Putting in an engine like that would involve replacing basically the entire car except the frame.

Sadly, no more..

David Silva wrote:jesus christ.
why don't you just buy an old beat up camaro and save yourself some trouble? you can pick up an 80's model for a couple thousand dollars. Putting in an engine like that would involve replacing basically the entire car except the frame.

maybe he wants to get more than 8 miles to the gallon. And TJ, im also in northern ohio and doing a 3800SC swap into a fiero, so ill prob be contacting you shortly...

Because I don't really like Camaro's all that much. Besides if I want to run 10's I can get out one of my other cars. The cavy is the slowest of my fleet but not for long.

I'd love to tow that 80's camaro you mention down the track with my 460/C6/200 shot/4.10 gear/3000 stall/850 cfm 4-bbl/Ford.

I like the Cavalier because it handles well, its small, its manuverable, its good on gas, comfortable, and sporty. But its slow ass a three tow sloth. So I have to do something about that. Plus I need something to drive in the winter time cuz my RWD cars need to go in storage.

So, please David, respect my intentions for this motor swap. If you don't like it, then don't put one in your cavalier. If I wanted a camaro, I'd buy one. Maybe I will someday and put a 14:1 compression 454 in it with 4.56:1 gears and a built TH400. I'm not exactly new to performance cars. This is my first attempt to hotrod a FWD car though.


Scott
2002 Audi S4, black
1996 Z24 auto, red

Not to mention it won't take as much hp to make a Cavalier run in the 11's as it takes heavier rwd muscle cars.


Scott
2002 Audi S4, black
1996 Z24 auto, red

David Silva wrote:jesus christ.
why don't you just buy an old beat up camaro and save yourself some trouble? you can pick up an 80's model for a couple thousand dollars. Putting in an engine like that would involve replacing basically the entire car except the frame.

The only thing you modify ON the car that really means much is the subframe, you add onto the existing piece. You in no way at all have to move or replace anything, get your facts straight.