Made a few pulls today with my current mods listed in my profile. The Z24 made 146.8 hp and 151.2 torque at the wheels with what looked to be the car pulling timing out on the top end. Not bad for bolt-ons on a humid 84 degree day. Between 5200 and 5700 the car seemed to be pulling timing, we checked the Air Fuel and it was right on the money, the dyno chart got choppy around these RPM's. Could it be my lightened crank pulley? Could it be creating false knock retard due to its harmonics? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
2001 Z24 (bolt-ons) 15.01 @ 90.78mph
robert jones wrote:isnt the z24 150hp stock
Yup, but you have to figure drivetrain loss and all that good stuff.. And like said above, its not to the wheels
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Nice Dyno Run
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Being a manual and IFS I figured drivetrain loss at around 12% For the people that think my dyno numbers look low this is what it looks like converted or simply put at the crank. 164 hp 169 torque.
2001 Z24 (bolt-ons) 15.01 @ 90.78mph
Back to my problem for a second. The guys at the performance shop that was running the dyno said that it might be from the knock sensor picking up the noise and vibration from my aftermarket exhaust and/or the fact that my mounts are stiffer then stock. anybody else have any ideas on what could be happening. Won't sleep until I figure it out.
2001 Z24 (bolt-ons) 15.01 @ 90.78mph
quicksilverz wrote:Back to my problem for a second. The guys at the performance shop that was running the dyno said that it might be from the knock sensor picking up the noise and vibration from my aftermarket exhaust and/or the fact that my mounts are stiffer then stock. anybody else have any ideas on what could be happening. Won't sleep until I figure it out.
What do you mean "choppy"?
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
NJHK (Sexual Chocolate) wrote:quicksilverz wrote:Back to my problem for a second. The guys at the performance shop that was running the dyno said that it might be from the knock sensor picking up the noise and vibration from my aftermarket exhaust and/or the fact that my mounts are stiffer then stock. anybody else have any ideas on what could be happening. Won't sleep until I figure it out.
What do you mean "choppy"?
probably spiking in the dyno graph
L33tJbody (Brandon Gathye) wrote:NJHK (Sexual Chocolate) wrote:quicksilverz wrote:Back to my problem for a second. The guys at the performance shop that was running the dyno said that it might be from the knock sensor picking up the noise and vibration from my aftermarket exhaust and/or the fact that my mounts are stiffer then stock. anybody else have any ideas on what could be happening. Won't sleep until I figure it out.
What do you mean "choppy"?
probably spiking in the dyno graph
I know when I dyno'd, I spiked when I shifted and that is probably because of the motor mounts and auto trans interceptor shifting it harder and more on point.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Cool I got pretty much the same mods as you but I got JBP Stage 2's. Now I know I'm sitting around 170 at the wheels and maybe 200 at the crank!
quicksilverz wrote:Back to my problem for a second. The guys at the performance shop that was running the dyno said that it might be from the knock sensor picking up the noise and vibration from my aftermarket exhaust and/or the fact that my mounts are stiffer then stock. anybody else have any ideas on what could be happening. Won't sleep until I figure it out.
Without more doing some more looking you will not know why. You need to have a scanner hooked up to the car to see if it is pulling timing, and if it is reading knock. You can't just guess it is knock. Did the air/fuel curve change at all during this?
Good numbera as well.
Quote:
Cool I got pretty much the same mods as you but I got JBP Stage 2's. Now I know I'm sitting around 170 at the wheels and maybe 200 at the crank!
Please do not say that. Every car is different. Your car could be stronger stock for stock, so you could have way more. At the same time your car could be weaker and put way less HP down. GO get your car dynoed and see what it has.
FU Tuning
Nice numbers. I see that you are in Kansas, were did you take it for the dyno runs and if you dont mind how much did it cost. If this place is near the Mo Kan border I would like to see what I'd pull.
I know choppy doesn't explain it that well but it was spiking on the dyno graph. I have scanned the car and the only code is a low bank code due to the magnaflow cat, I have a o2 sim on it now ( for the o2 on the actual cat) The air fuel was fine on all four runs and the motor seemed to be running strong despite the spike.
2001 Z24 (bolt-ons) 15.01 @ 90.78mph
EnviouZ wrote:Nice numbers. I see that you are in Kansas, were did you take it for the dyno runs and if you dont mind how much did it cost. If this place is near the Mo Kan border I would like to see what I'd pull.
I had it dynoed at Super Tune Performance, they are located at 163st. and Metcalf if you are familiar with Kansas. I paid $65 for four pulls with the air fuel being monitored on all four runs. They had a few other J-body's on their charts that they have dynoed. Nice guys plus they are flexible, I called them the day before and they asked what time I wanted to come in the next day.
2001 Z24 (bolt-ons) 15.01 @ 90.78mph
quicksilverz wrote:I know choppy doesn't explain it that well but it was spiking on the dyno graph. I have scanned the car and the only code is a low bank code due to the magnaflow cat, I have a o2 sim on it now ( for the o2 on the actual cat) The air fuel was fine on all four runs and the motor seemed to be running strong despite the spike.
Not what I meant by scanning. Your readings codes. The computer can be taking timing out with no codes. You need to go into the ECU further to see what the ECU is doing, and why.
FU Tuning
Yeah, I know where that is. I'll have to get up their sometime and see what she puts down. If you could would you please either post it here or e-mail me the Phone #.? I'd reallly appriciate it.
Engine:
Upper and lower motor mounts
Tranny mounts
Control arm bushings
AEM short ram intake
B&M short throw shifter
RSM lightened crank pulley
JBP 56mm TB
Pacesetter 4-1 header (jet hot coated)
Magnaflow Exhaust
highflow cat
resonator
muffler
Raptor shift light
RKsports spark plug boots/springs
Not a bad dyno number considering your mods, coolio. Really, the only mods I see here that will afect dyno readings are the WAI, crank pulley, 56mm tb, and the header/full exhaust. Easy bolt ons, nice.
I recently dynoed at 131 Hp and 142 lbs ft with an OBX 4-1 header, 2.25 inch exhaust with stock cat, and an exhaust cutout just before the muffler, and a 59mm tb. Just a K&N drop in filter though, a CAI is next for me. I probably would have gotten better numbers even with what I have, but I discovered later in the week that the trans the dealer put in didn't have any gear oil in it. Instead I found water (I went through a deep puddle a coule weeks ago). They forgot to put the dipstick in when they installed it 7K miles ago, and I'm suprised it lasted that long, just got done rebuilding it again. So I'd say switching water and rusted gearsets for nicely oiled gearsets and proper oil should be worth about 8 hp or so, lol. Especially at the top end. Maybe a CAI will make up the other 7
pretty nice numbers. as everyone else said, you need to have a scan tool hooked up, and monitor your knock counts and miss fire counts, and timing. Then you'll know whats causing it.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
That is what I will do then, Any place cheaper then the dealer I could go have it scanned?
2001 Z24 (bolt-ons) 15.01 @ 90.78mph
auto zone but wait nm.. they do sell this thing you can hook up to your port under the stearing wheel and it lets you see what your ecu is doing and if it is pulling codes.. it cost $99 plus you would need a lap top or some way to moniter it... but you said cheap, a dealer will charg you a minumum charg for them to hook your car up to there comp.. the p[lace i when for the reflash ifo they said 105$.. this might help...
r.i.p rotary
240 your azz!!! wrote:auto zone but wait nm.. they do sell this thing you can hook up to your port under the stearing wheel and it lets you see what your ecu is doing and if it is pulling codes.. it cost $99 plus you would need a lap top or some way to moniter it... but you said cheap, a dealer will charg you a minumum charg for them to hook your car up to there comp.. the p[lace i when for the reflash ifo they said 105$.. this might help...
No what Autozone sells does not allow you to read sensors. It will check codes and erase them that is it. I also would not go to the Dealer either. They are going to charge you $65 (at least, and more than likely they will not drive, just let it run. You need to find a friend or someone with there own scanner that you can use. That or get you a laptop and some datalogging software and do it that way.
FU Tuning
^^^ He is right the one they carry the actron cp9135 doesn't read sensors, I have it and wished it did.
2012 HD VRSCF
2010 Ford Explorer
2006 Ford Ranger
2004 Chevy Cavalier
Nice numbers!
2004 Cavalier
13.2@105........
Mods...
BFG Drag Radials
Saab Turbo kit
2.5 exhaust, w/cutout
Spec Stage 2+ Clutch
Thanks! on the hunt for a scanner now. Once I have smoothed out this minor snag its back to researching some more bolt-ons in the hopes of squeezing out a few more hp before returning to the dyno and the track next season.
2001 Z24 (bolt-ons) 15.01 @ 90.78mph
