Ok I have been told that if iI move the air temperature sensor, to a spot where the air comes in cooler, I in turn will get more power. First of all, where would be a prime place for this? Second, would it be a good idea to route it into the car to where it picked up the air from the a/c?
As he stated not really a worth while mod. Not going to do any damage to your motor, but not really going to help.
FU Tuning
It will give you a short term performence boost of up to 1 hp... long term, not good for the engine. Definently not worth it.
You're reading my line-break, you are a loser. Lurch <3's the c**k.
It could add small amount of power, combined with a intake maybe decent, not going to hurt the motor. you only going to drop a couple degree's in temp that it is reading, not going to dump a lot more fuel.
You know what has always interested me about this. When you are boosted you want extra fuel to make u for hot air, and extra air.
People always say if you do this mod it is not good because you could have warmer air, and more fuel. What is the problem, the extra fuel will help cool that air. I do agree you have to have a good mixture of air and fuel. if someone was yo run a wideband and see they need a little extra fuel, and then did this to get it, could be worth it. This is saying a a all motor car.
FU Tuning
Not that I am encouraging this mod...
But here is a little device that was pointed out to me when I was interested in doing this...
http://zzperformance.com/products1.php?id=183
Basically lets you tell the computer what temperature the air is. (So you can fool it).
I tried making my own using a 2k ohm resistor and a 10k ohm potentiometer, but for some reason it did not work.
What I did, is used a sensor and a multimeter and ran tests, and found that hot air made about 1k ohms of resistence, and cold (in ice water) made about 12k ohms. So with my potentiometer and resister, I had a range of 2k ohms to 12k ohms that I could adjust. Of the car, the resistence tested correctly, but once connected to the car, the range was only like 1.2k ohms to 2.8k ohms... this baffled me.
Anyways... That part on that link I posted may be interesting.
You're reading my line-break, you are a loser. Lurch <3's the c**k.
I know RKSport sells a IAT for the Camaro's that reads a set low temp. I also know the GTP guy do a similar mod as well.
FU Tuning
^^ In msot cases those are jsut resistors. Like the cheap eBay "chips" for our cars.
You're reading my line-break, you are a loser. Lurch <3's the c**k.
neoSandstorm (The Sandy One) wrote:^^ In msot cases those are jsut resistors. Like the cheap eBay "chips" for our cars.
Anyway, How much Fuel is added/substracted in function of this sensor by the ECU.?
I mean, there should be a Table like this
Temperature | Resistance | % correcction.
150 degrees 600 OHMS - 3% PW
77 degrees 3.0 KOHM + 5% PW
30 Degrees 10 KOHM + 10% PW
What are the maximun and minimun correction.? I think it cannot be despreciable because I make some test with a potentiometer inside the car.
Running in 3rd at constan 3,500 RPM, I changed the value from 500 OMH to 8 KOHM, and my wideband went very rich 16:1, and viceversa changing from 10 K to 500 OHM make it go very lean.
I think the change in the pulse width should be as high as 15%.
Anyone knows the real limits.?
Tnks.
