I had found that running the x-tune short ram intake seemed to be hurting my car uptop. From 4800RPM to redline the car fell on it's face. I didn't want the look of the 2200 box and the rubber tubing in my engine bay just too boring looking. So i removed the "bong" air box resonator, shortened the intake tube and hooked it up too the factory air box. Car seems to have more throttle response than the factory setup, pulls uptop without falling flat on it's face now. Right now it looks like crap since I need to purchase a coupler for the intake tube to hook up to the air box lid. Once i get that I am also going to paint the intake tube black so it looks cleaner under the hood than a polished tube going to a black box. I also have a K&N drop in filter on it's way as well. So please bear with me and my cut air intake hose to use a coupler. The cut hose was from my 1992 Cavalier. I still have all my stock setup that is un harmed lol.





2009 Ford Mustang V6

You have a LN2, 4500-4800 is where they stop making power.

not true in my ln2 from 3500-5500 is where i get my most power, in the low rpms mine just is like super bogged down it feels like, then when i het about 35 it sucks in the air wonderfully!

My bad, Just checked a few websites in 01 the LN2 made 115 @ 5000rpms.

all cleaned up with new couplers from home depot lol.










2009 Ford Mustang V6

short ram intakes FTL...modded air box FTW.

i too have the K&N filter and air box mod.




~1996 Cavalier LS 2.4L (auto)

Wow I really like your set-ups guys!!!

I'm still waiting to see who does the first fresh-air short-ram intake/hood combination using the filter case from a Ram-air Trans-Am. Guess it may just be me who does it. Wish me luck!


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

I have a cold air duct running up to my filter on my short ram. I have datalogged and it makes a big difference.



FU Tuning

John... You aren't teasing now, are you? If you aren't, let's see the data, please. If you are, Take-off, hoser!


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

alright, i was wondering about removing the air box "bong". Where abouts is it located, is it the part going into the wheel well? I am just going to do this temporarilay till i can buy some piping. I have a K&N drop and in the Tuner Tube removed on a 2200. Just wondering what type of gains i will see with this "bong" removed and pictures/tips how to remove it. Thanks


2000 Cavalier Sedan.

Andy Gohs wrote:alright, i was wondering about removing the air box "bong". Where abouts is it located, is it the part going into the wheel well? I am just going to do this temporarilay till i can buy some piping. I have a K&N drop and in the Tuner Tube removed on a 2200. Just wondering what type of gains i will see with this "bong" removed and pictures/tips how to remove it. Thanks

damn i know of pics of mine. i think they are at my dad's. here is my buddy jason's car. you don't have to remove the fender. his was bc we were doin an engine swap.





take off the wheel. remove the fender liner. i cant remember if there is a bolt or something somewhere. then just yank it out. be careful for your bumper you don't slam into it after removin the bong.


_______________________________________________________________________
my carDomain updated 3/6/07 Boosted at B-day!

well i have my fender liner torn off and part of the intake thing gone, but i cannot get the major part off, the rounded edged box it looks like. It is stuck, but there is a bolt connecting to the washer fluid tank, but i can't get a wrench in there or turn it. I already tried yanking on the damn thing but seems to not budge!! help asap, i have my car torn apart and i need it by the end of the day!


2000 Cavalier Sedan.

Check a service manual that has an "exploded" view of the section & parts in question. This will tell you where (if any) bolts or screws might be hiding & waht's stacked atop of what that needs to be removed first.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

i found the bolt holding it on, but i just left part of the box lol, got angry and decided to start sawzalling it. Got most of it out and it sounds sweet, eventually i will work on getting the rest of the box out though.


2000 Cavalier Sedan.

anyone figure out how to get the rest of the bong out yet? the round part at the bottom. My friend wants to do this mod, but i would like to do it right for him.


2000 Cavalier Sedan.

Hey... While you have it apart, how about figuring-out some kind of scoop to install to help it get all the air it may ever want? I know it seems I'm just beating the idea to death, but what good is it to relocate the filter to get cooler air into the engine if you don't make an effort to help insure that the filter gets all the cooler air there is to be had?


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

what i did was i went to the junk yard and since the front bumper was off, its easy to see how the bong is placed and held. then you know how to go home and get it out on your own, with out breaking something important.

but its held on with body tight plastic clips you have to pull hard on, or just cut out.


~1996 Cavalier LS 2.4L (auto)

just remove the lower black lining @ the bottom of the bumper and bang its exposed....

agree, also take off wheel makes it easy.


~1996 Cavalier LS 2.4L (auto)

So stock air box + modified hosing = better than SRI or LRI? I want to see proof! Not that I don't believe you guys, but I have a hard time believing a stock filter (even a K&N drop in) will make more power just by upgrading the cheap plastic tubing with metal tubing and some clamps.

Not knocking the idea, I actually like the thought. I was thinking of doing this with the Corolla, as it would open up the air intake a little more without having to buy a $200 SRI. I could do the whole system for maybe half that and no shipping cost (so I save about $150 in total).


2010 Honda Fit LX

Truth told (I'm probably gonna get flamed for this, but WTH!), alot of "traditonalists" have done the same with the older "cake-pan/pie-tin"-style air filter canister assemblies & flexible dryer ducting (Usually the kind made with cloth instead of mylar) running the the snorkle(s) on the canister. Amongst which "yours-truly!", and they got results merely because they increased the amount air that was delivered to it in the first place. This increase of delivered air just makes more air available for the engine to draw-in through the filter. Not to mention how the ducting collected the air from a point that openly faced directly into the headwind that was seen as the car went down the road (RE: Scoops or ports in the core-support panel), and that the openings they tied to were of considerable size. And how the air collected was far cooler than what was to be found under the hood. It may seem like all it could give was a small gain (Perspectively), but if you want an improvement over what you have (Power-gain) every little bit helps. And that idea helps!


Go beyond the "bolt-on".