ok so heres the deal, Im on a basic build wesico, egal, cometic arp. nothing special. for the past two weeks, I have been able to start the car, bring it up to temps and let it idle. today. I was going to attempt to drive the car. but now it doesnt want to play. I went to start it up like I always do, and it ran fine for a bit the started choping up like crazy. I went and pulled the idi cover and found oil on the number two boot.......... yeah


so I pulled the plugs and they looked ok, so I did a compression test and saw 180 across the board off of three cranks( including number 2) after I cleaned everything up, and put the plugs back in, I fired it up again. it ran and idle just like always, then started to fall on its face again. the more the car heats up the worse the idle gets. it sounds like a crazy miss, but I keep pulling the plugs and I just dont see anything. whats weird is its very precise in that its doing the same thing at the same tempatures. which leeds me to belive eletrical but that wouldnt explain the oil

any one?

oil pressure sits at 60 when idlieing good then drops to 40 when it starts to crap out

The only thing I can think of, is the fact that the gas is a year old. and is just not agreeing with my motor.




"boobs now with Riboflabin"

Is the Oil apearing everytime the engine starts to crap out or was it only the first time. Is everything else clean like contacts and terminals. When you first start it up does it idle to the normal rpm and it sounds perfectly normal until it starts to worm up.

it was only the one time, but thats after a while of running. I started it up only three times after that, becuase it would crap out everytime It would warm up. it runs fine until about 170, then boom @!#$ty idle and what not.


I think I might of figured it out though.

the seal let loose ont the valve cover gasket, and started fouling out the fire on cyl 2, when I took the plug out, it dumped all of that excess oil into the cyl. when I started the car, it shot masseive amounts of smoke, and I think I may of fried my 02.

when the car hits closed loop, it reverts to the 02, and the sends the readings to @!#$ becuase the 02 is caked in oil, so the car does spray fuel right, and falls on its face.

that would explain the heat up issue, that would explain the idle, and it fits with the oil delima,

doest anyone know if thats possiable?


"boobs now with Riboflabin"

i had the same issue but i think it was the camshaft housings gasket, it would get oil in the spark plug hole.


GMR has got nothing on this

i had the same issue but i think it was the camshaft housings gasket, it would get oil in the spark plug hole. But it sounds like you got it pretty much all figured out


GMR has got nothing on this

Ya that sounds like a good place to start because the valve cover gasket may get bunched up when you replace them. They can roll over on its self and not sell. With the O2 sensor that is true because it take 500 degrees to get it in closed loop and if the sensor is done then it wont know excactly what to do. I think just clean out everything and check for any misfire codes and find out what the O2 runs at when it starts to go crapy. If it changes to .5V and stays there then it goes into limp mode and the O2 might not be working.

Let it run like crap so you get a code. Then use that as a starting point.



FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!

i agree with valve cover gasket and such rubber crap around the area i had a very similair prob with my 96 breeze $10 fixed the valve cover gasket

I think Wade has the answer.

Wade Jarvis wrote:Let it run like crap so you get a code. Then use that as a starting point.

Eh, this won't necessarily help. Chances are it'll give him a misfire code, and that really won't get him any farther than he is right now.

Jcavi- your theory about the O2 sensor is sound, but I have my doubts about that little amount of oil fouling it up so badly though. If you've started the car within the last two weeks and it ran fine, I also have my doubts about bad gas. Is there anything significantly different temp/weather wise this time compared to last time? Perhaps something in your warm-up enrichment tables? You are still on megasquirt, right? I'm just throwing ideas out at this point, it could be any number of things from a bad sensor (if it keeps happening at the same temps, maybe ect? iat?), loose connection, maybe even a fried coilpack? Unfortunately this is one of those situations that can be a real bugger to diagnose long-distance. If you firmly believe the O2 is fouled pull it and take a look, see if the factory service manual has any tests to check it also. At this point I'm kinda leaning to a coil being bad, but like I said, over the internet I might as well be guessing. Good luck with it bro.




Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said

If his o2 sensor is bad it should give a code for that that though. My car did.



FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!

Wade Jarvis wrote:If his o2 sensor is bad it should give a code for that that though. My car did.

Not always so. I have bad O2 sensor's with no code. I have had a bad TPS and no code. Our cars can be weird sometimes.



FU Tuning

Fuel filter?

My car started running like crap one day... couldn't get it to do anything but idle. Give it any gas, and it would die. Turns out the fuel filter was clogged.... $12 later I was flying again.

to test your thery about the o2 just unplug ..... with out the o2 pluged in it wont go into closed loop ..... if it runs fine you know that eather the o2 is bad or you have a prob with that curciut .(i had a a\f gauge that was backfeeding voltage into the computer so the computer keept changing the fuel delivery and the car wouldent idle. also it didnt throw a code because the o2 was sending a signal.....

just my thoughts ...

Of course the second I stop checkin this it blows up


well I figured out the problem........... reversion


my exhaust is to short and its pulseing fresh air into the primaray 02. a scan tool shows a mad lean condition, and injector pulse width is increaeing 28% every step. not exactly sure how long a step is, but its enoguh to make the car fall on its face. I never thought to check this, becuase Ive always been on the megasquirt and if I didnt like my afr I could could just change it, but now that Im breaking in on the stock ecm, its not working out.

I took my exhasut to my exhuast to my shop and welded it up and lengthed it a couple of inches (would of done more, but I cant do much with out the car next to me to eye up) I even to a big risk and attempted to weld in another bung for my wideband. this wasnt so badI just found a good spot and marked it with tape, worked out fine.

the car runs much better, but is still running pig rich. Im going to put on the last foot of my down pipe, and give it another check. this should cure the problem all together.

on another note, I drove the car today, and it ran just fine. agian no power due to the rich condition, but it still ran with out a mis, and no over heating. tommorow Im going to go for it and attempt to make the 30 mile trip back home wish me luck fellas


"boobs now with Riboflabin"