2.2 Stock or Mod - Performance Forum
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Hey i have an OHV engine and i really want more power but i dont want to lose the reliability of the car. Right now i have an intake and complete exhaust. The car has the isuzu trans in it also. I have the motor completely apart right now because my first trans went and i figured pull them both and redo them at the same time. I was thinking about porting the head and intake out. This would be cool since that is what i do. I do all kinds of wild things to cylinder heads. But they are SBC, BBC, SBF, and BBF. All Carbureted. I dont know what milling the head, porting it and zero decking the block( if you dont know what that is, it is when the top of the piston has .000 difference with the deck of the block, it good for compression and quench) would do to the ecu and engine. Could the computer handle those kind of mods?
To be honest with you. Your best bet is to perform an engine swap. The 2.2L OHV isn't reliable, stock let alone modified. I would get ether the Quad-four or the Ecotec motor.
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Option D wrote: The 2.2L OHV isn't reliable, stock let alone modified.
the ohv may not be as reliable as the eco, but you dont see quad motors with 400,000 miles on them. seriously, the ohv is (in its stock form) more reliable by a good bit than the quads. add to that a decent rebuild (since you already have it out) a set of eagle rods, and a new timing tensioner, you're looking at an engine worth at least 200,000 miles if properly maintained.
anyway, back to the op.
this has been done many times. now, when you p&p, mill the head, and zero deck, it IS a good idea to have someone flash your ecu to take advantage of all your new gained flow. make sure, while you have it apart, that the pushrods are the proper length after decking and milling. while you're in that department, throw in some 1.6 ratio rockers. they'll give you more lift, and since you seem to know wht you're talking about, lashing them should be a breeze for you. since you took the engine apart, you should have recognized just how much this engine resembles a shrunken sbc. all the tricks for them apply to our engines. there's tonnes of info on here, just have to find it.
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The computer should be retuned if any modifications are made to get the most potential from them as it does not always realize that anything has been done to it and does not know how to adapt.
What year engine/computer? If 97 or < you can buy HPTuners.
Robert, as you've already have seen this motor works just like any other OHV V8, only it has 4 cylinders. Whatever you do to increase performance in a V8, you can do to it. The biggest restriction is the head, it definitely needs a P&P.
Here's a link to some threads about the 2.2L 2200 OHV motors that should shed some light on performance mods for these motors. Hope you've got plenty of time theres alot of reading in those threads.
Today, im planning on porting my head and intake. Im ordering the new pistons and bottom end rebuild. my new question is how much whp do you think ill make with the following:
2.2L OHV
ported and polished head
polished and back cut valves
32 angle valve job
Shim up the springs
Crane roller rockers
Zero decked block
.060 flat top pistons
Milled head .020
OBX-r Header and Megan Exhaust
High Flow Cat
Intake
Let me know asap the @!#$ is going down today or tomorrow
that sounds like one mean ohv. i'd have to say anywhere from 145 to 160 whp. and you know, a turbo is always nice while you're at it.
Id like to go turbo one day but i cant afford to put one one yet. Plus im trying to just put this engine back in and retune it using all stock components other than whats inside the engine.
Thrice . wrote:that sounds like one mean ohv. i'd have to say anywhere from 145 to 160 whp. and you know, a turbo is always nice while you're at it.
Try more like 110whp.
how would he only get 110whp with a turbo?..ohh i see where i went wrong, sorry i didn't really word that right, it was meant to say, with a turbo 145 to 160.
VanquisherOfTheVariance (Zach) wrote:Thrice . wrote:that sounds like one mean ohv. i'd have to say anywhere from 145 to 160 whp. and you know, a turbo is always nice while you're at it.
Try more like 110whp.
i have a 2.2 with full exhaust, intake, milled head, p&p intake and head with the 5spd and dynoed at 119 whp and 120 something torque, with the mods listed i have the dyno sheet to prove it if you need the evidence, i would say that he would be pretty close to that number with all of the other stuff that he has listed to do maybe not quite 160 but 145 does not seem that un-reasonable
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yea i got 95 or so whp and 115 w torq and all i have done is headder exhaust and a wai ...... and im the non roller 93 2.2 with a stock tune (5 speed also )
Robert Helms wrote:Today, im planning on porting my head and intake. Im ordering the new pistons and bottom end rebuild. my new question is how much whp do you think ill make with the following:
2.2L OHV
ported and polished head
polished and back cut valves
32 angle valve job
Shim up the springs
Crane roller rockers
Zero decked block
.060 flat top pistons
Milled head .020
OBX-r Header and Megan Exhaust
High Flow Cat
Intake
Let me know asap the @!#$ is going down today or tomorrow
New Cam or no? How will you be tuning this? What year is your car?
I will be using the stock cam with new valve springs that will be shimmed up for more spring pressure. I dont know about tuning it though, what do you think. The car is 1996
one year before HPtuners. $*(%
Anyone with new ideas for power. Maybe a 2.2 OHV power recipe for max.
Get your cam reground. You favorite cam company can do it and you can stay close to stock lift ranges, especially with 1.5:1 rockers. This motor uses the same lobe profiles as the SBC's hydraulic roller, so there are plenty of lobe designs to choose from. Just don't get too extreme with the lift numbers, the pressed on lobe can only be ground so much, before durability becomes a problem. Probably in the range of 0.340"-0.350" lobe lift range max.
If you want more lift, you can use the LS6 GMPP valve springs or the Comp Cams LS1/2/6 valve springs. You'll need to machine the spring pockets .090" to get the 1.8" installed height. With the work you've shown in the other threads you've posted, this should be no problem to do/get done.
As for the cam regrind try for a a grind that will advance the intake opening one degree and retard the exhaust one degree. This will give you a LSA of 112*(stock is 114*). Try for an intake duration in the 206*-210* @ 0.050" and an exhaust duration of 6*-12* more duration and the same or more total lift. This will keep you within the rpm band of the stock PCM, yet maximize the power the motor can make.
With the flat-top pistons watch your valve-to-piston clearance, any interference wouldn't be pretty, as you know.
If you want to tune this motor, you can do a '97 PCM and wiring harness swap or re-pin the harness you have to fit the '97 PCM. the '98 & '99 harness will fit also, but you'd need to add an extension to the Ignition harness to get to the coil packs and module. You could also wait and see what Shifted's doing with his system, see the tuning forum for more info on that.
Well, ive began to overboard in my engine. Ive changed so much now that i cant go back. My head is at least 20% bigger in runner volume. Hopefully my stock fuel injectors and ecu can handle all this. What do you all think?
Add more pushrods
Swap a V6
Geez... I'd never get stuff like this from any old-schoolers or S-builders! Except maybe something like SHOoff's comment. Anyway, just also make to replace the timing-chain & tensioner if your ride has more than 80,000 miles. You'll thank me for that tip, as I know from experience what will happen if you don't... trust me, it gets bad. Very, very bad.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
At least you didn't waste cash on a 2000 engine & trans w/ harness with only 10, yes 10 miles on it, only to learn none of it's a direct bolt-in for your '94. Crower reman crank, bearings, oil pump later... the tick persists! And then the lifters failed a while later, along with the cam & it's bearings because of the block's priority oiling design for cleaner, quieter cold-start operation. $3500.00 for 100 mile vehicle transit and installation of a reman long-block, with core and vehicle return transit included. Does this give you clue of the importance of timing-chain replacement, Mr. Helms?
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
The chain and tensioner will last longer than that...change your oil and filter when you're supposed to. My grandma's 75k tensioner/guide looked almost new.
Every time I've seen the tensioner fail, it's because that passage was clogged with gunk.
fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster
I did get a new 3 piece timing kit with a new tensioner. I have 160k on the motor. Do you think new cam bearings are a must?
Robert Helms wrote:I did get a new 3 piece timing kit with a new tensioner. I have 160k on the motor. Do you think new cam bearings are a must?
If replacing the cam, most certainly.
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