does anyone have this? for $550 is it worth it? (assuming of course that the flow #'s listed are accurate.

i think im gonna go with a fully built ohv. havent decided on n/a or turbo yet but this should help out in iether application correct?

JTuners no longer exists, but you can get the head through Hypsy if you want. It looks like a decent head. Flow numbers are a guide, but bigger is not always better.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

Where are you getting this head from bc i'm doing an 2200 and i've been looking for a fully built head for a decent price for a good while

i saw it on the j-tuners website, but they are gone apparently. according to Mr. notec, we could get one of these heads from hypsy. (www.ryne.com) but i also went to the patriot performance website and i saw that they had it listed there for the same price as the j-tuners head, 550 for the bare head and 675 for the assembled head. the only probelm is that the valvetrain is still oem, so i guess the best thing to do would be to get the bare head and build it yourself, ie. rocker arms, valve springs, ect.. unless of course patriot would custom make a head for you, but i have no idea if they can/will do that.

We are still trying to figure out a valvetrain for the 2200, I doubt PP would want to take on the challenge. Also, I believe PP only does the 94-97 head, not the 98+ (2200).



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

sorry, i dont mean to bring this post back from the dead, i just havent had time to post. i recieved an email from the guys over at patriot, that they do offer a modified head for the 98+ 2200.


for a bare head it is 550 (usd)

for an assembled head 695 (usd)

The head J-Tuners was selling was the Patriot Performance 2200 head. I still carry the head for anyone that wants one.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

The head J-Tuners was selling was the Patriot Performance 2200 head. I still carry the head for anyone that wants one.


Is it performance or just OEM parts in it?

It's a ported and polished head. The valves are stock size because there isn't room to oversize them. I believe the valvetrain is upgraded though.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

could i possibly get a confirmation on the vavletrain being upgraded? and if so what exactly is different from stock?

im sorry if i sound so picky but im in a huge mental debate right now on weather to stick with the 2200 or to go with an eco swap. i just dont know which would be the better of the two in the long run. availability of parts for the 2200 is one of the reasons i may just be going eco, but if this head would make the 2200 that much more responsive to any mods done to it, then i dont know.....

any opinions???

Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:It's a ported and polished head. The valves are stock size because there isn't room to oversize them. I believe the valvetrain is upgraded though.

Not sure about the components used, but I've hear they use stock parts. As for the size valves, the stock seats will handle the 1mm oversize valves and possibly more (you'll need to machine the valve seats). You can go upto a 1.84" intake valve if you remove the stock valve seat and install a 1.924" OD valve seat. Any valve other than the +1mm valves will require custom made valves. The exhaust valves are adequately sized, you shouldn't need anthing more than the +1mm valve. The intake is where the gains are to be made.

Patriot Performance does have a good reputation with the local engine builders in my area, for making good flowing heads.

would going with the +1 mm valves be benificial in a n/a application? if i stick with the 2200 i will prolly end up turboing somewhere down the line, but that is soo far away that i would still want to have decent power n/a.

right now im kinda leaning toward sticking with the ohv and going with the patriot head. so hypsy if you could pm me a price on the head, both assmbled and bare.

now if i understand correctly moving to a higher flowing head is going to shift my powerband upward? correct? so in turn i should probably focus on mods that would assist the mid to high range in the rpms, and pretty much forget about low end power. keep in mind im not going to get a cam for this motor if/untill i build it for boost or have to replace it for some reason.

any opinions on where i should go from there?

head will shift powerband upward to some extent, but powerband is decided more by the cam profile than anything else. It stands to reason you'll see some gains throughout the rev band but probably more up top than down low (which, despite what anyone tells you, is a GOOD thing).




Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said

hey, scarab. i knew you would pop into one of my ohv threads sooner or later. i was hoping you would be able pm me the startup of the ohv build guide, or whatever you have done. it would be a great help. i actually already pm'd you about 2-3weeks ago and i know that that kind of info would be a HUGE help in deciding weather or not i will be able to meet my goals for the 2200, and not spend a small fortune.......or a large fortune for that matter.

thnx

So if i purchased the competition head and installed it onto my car, what are my performance and horsepower increases?
And as for Hypsy, how much you selling them for, for the OHV 2.2?

Thanks

^^^ no one knows each car is different... youd have to dyno it

^^^ I totally understand that but what i'd like to know is how much should it increase let say if the car was stock.
You know how when you buy a turbo kit and it says 50-80 Horsepower? Well, what should a part like this have under its description? Have you heard of anyone else running the Competition heads? If so, how much horse power did it produce from them. THanks

i would assume at least 15 whp



LE61T PTE6262 Powered

would it be safe to assume along withthe 15 hp that you would also see greater gains from other mods? such as the i/h/e and a tb?

IMO, on a stock engine you'd be lucky to get 10hp. You need other basic mods like intake, TB, header, exhaust to see decent gains. Add a thinner headgasket and a cam and prepare for liftoff



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

for that kind of money wouldnt it be better to just swap in an eco?

YEAH ECO SWAP ITS NOT WORTH DROPPING THE MONEY IN THE 2200 just to get it around a close to stock eco.







'spit chew hits soldiers boot'
"thats a real nasty habit you got there"
"this stuff will make you a sexual tyransaur just like me"
jesse the body ventura in Predator

neongreencavi wrote:YEAH ECO SWAP ITS NOT WORTH DROPPING THE MONEY IN THE 2200 just to get it around a close to stock eco.

Shut up. Worth is a decision for the owner of the car and only them. It's the same deal as when a guy with a Corvette says I could have got a used Vette for what I've put into my car. If I wanted a Vette I'd have gotten one.

If you want to go a different route from most of the new guys on this site then keep the 2200. You can make them fairly quick but you will have more potential with the Ecotec just because it's a DOHC design and much more efficient. I'd say the 2200 head would net 5-15HP alone though.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:

neongreencavi wrote:YEAH ECO SWAP ITS NOT WORTH DROPPING THE MONEY IN THE 2200 just to get it around a close to stock eco.

Shut up. Worth is a decision for the owner of the car and only them. It's the same deal as when a guy with a Corvette says I could have got a used Vette for what I've put into my car. If I wanted a Vette I'd have gotten one.
If you want to go a different route from most of the new guys on this site then keep the 2200. You can make them fairly quick but you will have more potential with the Ecotec just because it's a DOHC design and much more efficient. I'd say the 2200 head would net 5-15HP alone though.

Word. I have a '2200' (2.2L/2200 hybrid technically) that would probably rival just about anything on this site. If you're going to build the motor anyway, that little extra from the ECO in stock trim is marginal once you get to decent power levels.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

hey i have never swapped a head before, assuming i get the assembled head, are there any special tools needed. any tips or little pearls of wisdom? and i know it is going to vary greatly depending on a mixture of both luck and experience, but what is the average ammount of down time on a car that is going to have the head swapped?