I was bored the other week so I decided to port all those items on my 2.2. I'm not sure how much more power it gave me, but the butt dyno definitely showed a nice gain. Last time I went to the track with nothing more than an intake I ran a 17.1, hopin' next friday when I go to get into the low 16's.

As far as technique, when I worked on the throttle body I didn't really grind much in front of the throttle body, but opened up the backside of it. There's a little dip or groove on the bottom side that i smoothed out the best I could and opened it up a bit more. I basically took out all the metal I possibly could. I smoothed out the lip a bit in front of the throttle body as well making for a smooth transition.

For the Intake manifold, I did a bit of work. I don't know much of anything about Fluid dynamics but to me it made sense to not only open the upper ports up a bit, but because of the design, it would give better flow to blend the openings of the ports to where the throttle body opening is. It's kinda difficult to explain without pictures but I guess the best way is to imagine the ports as the base of a triangle, and the throttle body the top point and you want to blend the ports toward the top. Then I moved down to where the runners match up with the head, I gasket matched the opening then grinded down the inside radii of the runner to give it as much of a straight shot as possible into the cylinder.

At this point in the day I had to put everything back together and go somewhere, I noticed much better throttle response and it just felt a lot peppier overall.

The next day i tackled the exhaust header and opened the reducer as much as I could without making the walls too thin and then gasket matched the runners as well as massaging the inside radii of them. Once i put the header back on and took it out, I wasnt too impressed at first, but I guess the computer had to learn the new parameters because I noticed a very nice gain all throughout the rpm range.

I'm very pleased overall with everything and anyone can do this. I used a dremel to do all this which I'm sure took longer than using an air compressed die grinder with the right bits, but I'd say I spent about 5 hours on the actual porting part of the t/b and manifold and about 3 1/2 - 4 hours on the exhaust manifold. When taking the intake manifold off, make sure you have the correct tool to remove the Fuel pressure regulator, otherise you're going to be kicking and screaming, and also make sure you don't drop anything down the runners into the combustion chamber, otherwise you're gonna spend some time getting that thing out (i know from experience!). Have fun putting the alternator back on as well Took me about 2 hours to figure it out the first time cause I didn't have a manual or anything. Otherwise have fun, it's about the cheapest thing you can do to your car to make it faster.

I'll post my times after i get back from the track to see how much of an improvement this made in the quarter.

...impressive. wish I was mechanically inclined to do a lot of my labor myself...don't really have time to learn (i work about 65+ hours a week). let us know what kinda gains ya get!







...don't hate!.. respect people that have talent, even if it is in something you don't like or understand.

just buy a header lol




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

I was just seeing how much quicker I could make the car without spending the money on aftermarket parts. I'm definitely gonna be buying a header, just wanted to see what the stock header would do ported out

I guess this is a 2200? I'm planning on doing this to my 2200.

Why remove the alternator? I put a header on and I didn't remove the alternator. Just unscrewed the studs from the block, instead of the bolt from the stud.

What is the tool needed to remove the FPR?

it's the 2.2, not the 2200( my car is a 96)

I was going to port out the exhaust ports on the head is why I removed the alternator, but decided not to port the head. If you can get the header off without removing the alternator then that's awesome, less of a headache!

The tool I believe is T wrench(drawing a blank right now for some reason). It has six grooves in the head of the screw, looks like a star.

This weekend I'm going to be doing this as ell.

What grind attachment did you use for the IM, TB, EM, & head (if you did the head ports)?

I used the largest grinding attachment I could find at Lowe's for the dremel. I went through 4 of them too, then I bought the brass shaft polisher kit which was $5.00 for the dremel as well.
I opened up the exhaust port a little bit but not the intake.

I did the porting over the weekend.

Started with the TB & IM. On the TB, I basically just grind down the ridge that's on the backside of the butterfly. Also, I took a little of the TB port to match the IM port. On the IM, there's a small lip just after the TB. I smoothed out the lip and opened up the ports to the head slightly. Also, I shaved some off the four corners of each runner.

On the exhaust side, I smoothed out some welds on my header. Then I opened the exhaust ports on the head alot. I'd say I opened them up at least 1/8" if not 1/4" diameter each. Which I did all the way to the valve chamber.

The gains I noticed is quite significant. Any one with a 2200, and some knowledge, should definitely look in to porting the exhaust ports on the head. These ports are absurdly small for the size of the chamber and port size of a header. Not to sure about stock manifold since I didn't compare it to my header.

sorry to bring this back from near-death, but i was wondering if anyone knows any how-to's on this. specifically the intake manifold.

I see you have a Eco. Porting the intake manifold is easy, but isn't worth it if you're going to eventually turbocharge your car. Just take the intake manifold off and measure the opening of the head ports, write it down, then match the opening with the intake manifold by utilizing a dremel. There are some ribs that you can dremel out inside the manifold, but be VERY careful not to dremel a hole through as it does get rather thin. Also keep some epoxy on hand (to seal a breach) just in case you do puncture something. To clean it up, you can use a can of pressurized CO2, and you should be good to go. It's a cheap mod, but there has been some controversy relating to it. Some say it provided a good gain as other said that it didn't benefit whatsoever.
Good luck!




Coming soon!,
"Stage IV" Hahn Racecraft System,
PortFueler,
Hahn Aluminum Intake Manifold,
Wiseco 8.9:1 Compression Pistons,
Eagle Connecting Rods,
Darton Sleeves,
Stage IV Clutch,
Will run daily @ 15psi and 20+ psi at the track!

Xian G wrote:I did the porting over the weekend.

Started with the TB & IM. On the TB, I basically just grind down the ridge that's on the backside of the butterfly. Also, I took a little of the TB port to match the IM port. On the IM, there's a small lip just after the TB. I smoothed out the lip and opened up the ports to the head slightly. Also, I shaved some off the four corners of each runner.

On the exhaust side, I smoothed out some welds on my header. Then I opened the exhaust ports on the head alot. I'd say I opened them up at least 1/8" if not 1/4" diameter each. Which I did all the way to the valve chamber.

The gains I noticed is quite significant. Any one with a 2200, and some knowledge, should definitely look in to porting the exhaust ports on the head. These ports are absurdly small for the size of the chamber and port size of a header. Not to sure about stock manifold since I didn't compare it to my header.

the ports are small to keep exhaust velocity high and also smaller than the manifold or header so that exhaust has something to pulse against so it doesn revert back into the head...

bigger isnt always better.

New times ? Interesting to hear if any improvement, the old 'butt dyno' isn't always so accurate.

jp08865 wrote:New times ? Interesting to hear if any improvement, the old 'butt dyno' isn't always so accurate.

yea no kiddin. i thought my car was fast.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

Well, maybe so, but I wanted to add a little something to this 2200. Cause I'm becoming impatient on this ecotec rebuild and swap. I didn't want to spend anymore money on this engine at all.

In preplanning for the ecotec I put 2.5" exhaust on, which I know is to much for little ol 2200, but I didn't want to have to pay for it twice. I lost quite a bit of power with the 2.5" exhaust, so I decided that it was my only option to try to increase performance, for free, till I finish my eco swap.

As I said before it brought back the power I had lost from putting on 2.5" exhaust.

Side note. After looking at the 2200 IM & the ecotec IM. I would hate to have to do the ecotec's. The design of it makes the accesibilty of harder to port or atleast it looks that way.

with porting and polishing, its really easy to DE engineer the engine very fast....

sounds like you did this with the head on the block and in the car .....not sure though, but def something i would recommend against... even though its the exhaust side, small shavings of metal anywhere in the exhaust stream doesnt sound good.

2.5 exhaust like you said is overkill, but there is a good chance you could have made it worse, if in the least on gas mileage.... slowing down exhaust flow will do this.... even more if it doesnt have something to pulse back against....

as it stands the exhaust valve is pretty small....

I'm heading to the track tommorow night so i'll post on saturday my results. I'm expecting low 16's, but we'll see.

Let me start by quoting a phrase... "Assuming makes an ass out of you and out of me."

To assume facts without seeing, hearing or driving the vehicle is completely idiotic, no offense, but that is the truth. Not to mention assuming what someone has done without knowing them personally or seeing them do it is the same as above.

I did not do it with the head on the car. I did not port the exhaust ports to the size of the header. I left a decently sized lip on the ports. Between an 1/8 to 1/4 lip was left on the head.

As for my gas mileage. I had a 1/2 tank of gas, which was from filling up the week before. So, I've gone 2.5 weeks on 1 tank of gas, and I drive quite a bit. Before I did this only 1 tank would last 1.5 weeks. So, it seems to me that my gas mileage has increased after this.

For drivabillity, it has better acceleration, and idles perfectly fine at a stand still, and coasting with it in nuetral. No CEL.

As for de-engineering from PnP. I think I know since I've been the one saying not to have a shop, without a flowbench, do a PnP. Even though they said they can.

Well I was only able to make it to the 1/8th mile track last night and it wasn't a good night, my clutch was slipping more than a tube full of KY Jelly. So, needless to say my times weren't good. I was getting constant 2.38's on my 60' and couldn't seem to get above 64 mph. My best ET was a 10.9 which was awful.

So, I don't have any hard proof how well the porting worked but it's definitely worth a weekends work

Xian G wrote:Let me start by quoting a phrase... "Assuming makes an ass out of you and out of me."

well i'll be the first to REUSE your own quote and ask you:

86svo wrote:Well I was only able to make it to the 1/8th mile track last night and it wasn't a good night, my clutch was slipping more than a tube full of KY Jelly. So, needless to say my times weren't good. I was getting constant 2.38's on my 60' and couldn't seem to get above 64 mph. My best ET was a 10.9 which was awful.

So, I don't have any hard proof how well the porting worked but it's definitely worth a weekends work

how exactly do you know it was really worth a weekends work when the first time out to the track you got crappy results?

as it stands your 6 foot times were pretty much 2.4 seconds, which can eithe be a clutch OR loss of velocity.

seems you might NOT wanna assume somethings worth until decent results are there.

nothing personal.

First things EVENT, if it's nothing personal, THEN YOU DON'T NEED TO SAY THINGS WHICH MAKE YOU SOUND LIKE A CONCEIDED PRICK. Like thumper's mamma always said, if you don't have anything nice to say, say nothing at all.

Now, have you done these things yourself? If you have then you will notice that there is a definite pickup over the entire powerband. I agree with you whole-heartedly about needing solid results, but there's just a number of varialbes right now that can't allow me to "prove" it.

all I can give is my word that it's faster all around, I'm not hear to argue things. END OF STORY.

this is NOT about your feelings or being nice or any other of the sentimental BS that this forum loves.... its simply about finding out what works and what doesnt. this isnt disney, and i dont give a crap about thumpers mom. i'm not gonna hug any of you and tell you its fine bambis mom got shot. so drop the oversensitive crap.



however, i still stand by my statements...

until these "other factors" are taken care of, REALLY... you cant tell whether it IS or IS NOT an improvement.


there is not any solid proof on these forums besides BUTT DYNOS 90% of the time. butt dynos lie, people lie...

track times and dynos DONT... those are just the facts.



yes i have done these things...

i also posted my flow charts before and after... some kinda proof, atleast. if you do something and claim it made a difference, on ANY forum, people will ask for proof. if you cant deal with that, oh well.... people will ask.

http://tiger.towson.edu/~apittm1/flow1before.jpg
http://tiger.towson.edu/~apittm1/flow2after.jpg

I agree with you it's about facts. I started this thread to show how easy it is to do stuff like this, sorry I didn't have the proof when I posted, next time I'll wait till I do

The only proof I have is my 60' times from my 1/4 mile run, the 60's were 2.55 in that run to my 2.38. But that might also be my driving skills were better last night.

All I know is the butt dyno for now, I guess if it's a lie then so be it, however, I like how much more my car pulls now

86svo wrote:I agree with you it's about facts. I started this thread to show how easy it is to do stuff like this, sorry I didn't have the proof when I posted, next time I'll wait till I do

The only proof I have is my 60' times from my 1/4 mile run, the 60's were 2.55 in that run to my 2.38. But that might also be my driving skills were better last night.

All I know is the butt dyno for now, I guess if it's a lie then so be it, however, I like how much more my car pulls now:D

in bold is mainly why i asked what i did....

if i wanted to piss you off, i would simply say something assanine like "aw you dont know wtf you are doing" or something in that realm...


but you said it pulls harder..... this is what we normally hear on throttle bodies... it pulls harder, right?


most times oversized TB pull harder in upper rpms, which is where the power is gained, however in the lower rpms the power is lost....its a give and take since there isnt an addition of air or fuel or spark, which is the creator of power...

so without an increase of the "major three" when we add TB, or increase or decrease pipe size, or runner size on the exhaust side, we are merely just moving the power band lower or higher...

hence the reason i asked what i did.

I got ya completely, sorry I was kinda short, just had a huge fight with the fiance and needed to vent a little.