k i think im gonna get some high copression pistions. i seen there a 10:1 and a 9.5:1 so if i get the 10:1 will i need to upgrade anything else on my motor? n im guessing there will be significant increase in horsepower or not?
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compression is one of the big ways to add power to an all motor OHV. However, its not as easy as just slapping in pistons with a bigger dome on them. If you're going to take the engine apart to put in high compression pistons, you may as well pick up a junkyard engine, and put new rods in with the pistons, get the head of the spare engine ported and go all the way. If you get one with low mileage thats been well maintained, you won't have to do too much machine work which will save you money.
Here's what i would do:
Pick up a spare engine (look on ebay, often you can get them for $200 or less)
Send the head from the spare motor to get ported (or do some research, buy some tools, and do it yourself)
Hone the cylinder walls to a nice cross-hatch finish
take all of the rotating components to a machine shop and have them balanced and have the crank checked for any issues like out of round or wear.
Call up Elgin, Crane, Comp Cams, whoever, and talk with them about a custom cam. They'll ask you for specs on the engine and what your goals are, and come up with the best possible cam for your application. You'll want a cam that gives a wide powerband, since its for a street car.
Depending on the specs of the cams you may need stiffer valvesprings, so talk this over with your machine shop that porting your head. With stiffer springs comes the need for better retainers and locks too. Also, you can get the 1.6:1 roller rockers and stronger pushrods wouldn't be a bad idea.
Now you're ready for the assembly, get the spare engine all buttoned up.
THe only thing you need now is some way to tune your new engine. An emanage and a wideband O2 sensor are a good start. I'm not sure if you'll need bigger injectors or not but an adjustable fuel pressure regulator wouldn't be a bad idea. Also, you'll probably want to run spark plugs that are one heat range colder, and gapped .004" tighter than the stock specs. Also, with 10:1 compression on an 8 valve, quench-chamber style head, you'll need to run premium gas from now on. You may also want to get someone to flash your PCM for an increased rev limiter at this point, since
This setup is very similar to what Event and Scrufdog have run, and Scruf dynoed at 177whp on an auto transmission, with a stock exhaust manifold. With a header and a manual trans you may well be looking at over 190 hp to the wheels, which is about what a supercharged 2.4 makes without serious additional modification. Of course that will all depend on how well its tuned, but not bad for an all motor pushrod 4 banger huh?
And i'll tell you now, my Bug makes at best 210 hp or so, and weighs a LOT more than a J, and i'm in the 13's. So with good driving, decent street tires, and maybe a little weight reduction i wouldn't consider low 14's, high 13's out of the question for the setup i just listed. With drag radials or slicks, who knows, maybe mid to low 13's.
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k dont really have the money for all that. was thinkin of gettin a header n high flow cat, then a lightened crank pulley, then the mounts, then if possible the pistons. can i just run the pistons with all the stuff? cuz for head stuff its like 2 or 3 grand im guessin n it aint easy to get for me atleast.
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head stuff isn't 2 or 3 grand. And its not worth tearing the motor apart to just swap in pistons. If you're going to do something, do it right the first time. You will severely regret just trying to swap pistons. Be patient, save your money and do things properly.
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so if i got like a forged rods n pistons would it be worth it? or should i get a better crank too so the bottom end is done?
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I would at least get the crank balanced and get the cylinders honed. I would try to get everything done in the block while you have it apart. Im thinking about going all motor with my ohv so Im listening
the stock crank has shown to be strong enough for 220+ hp, so I doubt you'll make numbers high enough to break it while running an all motor setup. If you're looking to run an 8000 rpm drag car, than maybe a new crank would be a good idea.
Just balancing the crank and other moving components should be enough. If you really want to go crazy get the crank knife-edged and lightened.
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how much to get it honed?
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Dillon Zellmer wrote:how much to get it honed?
It sounds like you don't know much about the bottom end. In that case, you need to do alot more research on how it works, and what does what.
After you have a better understanding, what you can do is find an bottom end package where everything is done for you already and comes with all the parts you want/need. Another way you can do it is by finding an engine shop or a performance shop that will do everything for you and you probably just have to supply them the internals.
Also, what are your future plans? All motor? Turbo? The compression you decide to run should depend on your future plans.
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ill probly just do all motor since ill haveta change a lot more stuff for a turbo or supercharger. how much at most will like a local sho charghe to do everything to a bottom end? n i dont know much thats y i ask questions here to learn about it.
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Dillon Zellmer wrote:ill probly just do all motor since ill haveta change a lot more stuff for a turbo or supercharger. how much at most will like a local sho charghe to do everything to a bottom end? n i dont know much thats y i ask questions here to learn about it.
It's cool that you don't understand bottom end stuff...at one time I had no idea how things worked and the JBO helped me out and so did my friends.
I know some shops that will charge anywhere around $800-1000 just to take the motor out...a little high priced but it really all depends on where you go and if they cut you a break or give you some type of package deal.
I was actually having plans to build my bottom end (but that fell through). I was actually going to buy an spare ECOTEC block, send it to a shop in Illinois to rebuild it with all forged internals and ship it back to me to have someone install it. I know the price they gave me to rebuild it and for the parts was about $2000...so I'd imagine by time I was done, I'd be spending about $3000 including installation.
It's a really big project to do and labor costs are high especially for a project that takes some time to actually do it.
Also, if I were you, I'd run either 10:1 or 10.5:1 compression pistons on top of forged rods (eagle rods).
So being that I actually gave you some pricing examples, you still want to do it? LOL j/k
Like said before, prices vary depending on what you do, you could get a great deal and chip off $500 - $1000 or you could get ripped off and get charged $500 - $1000 more, just do your homework and shop around.
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so at what point will i haveta upgrade the injectors n all that or dont i if i just do head stuff n the bottom end?
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also if i like get the head ported n stuff it wont increase the size at awill it? im thinkin of just buyin parts here n there if i have a lil extra money.
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Dillon Zellmer wrote:so at what point will i haveta upgrade the injectors n all that or dont i if i just do head stuff n the bottom end?
The size injectors you get usually depends on what you are doing. The bigger power, the bigger injectors. I'm not too keen on how injector sizes work as far as fuel matching and so forth.
You can get your stock injectors to flow pretty well all motor though and not push it to the limit. The only time you would really need to worry about injectors is if you raise the compression...you might want to think about upgrading them. If your running boost, it's defenitley a good decision to upgrade them.
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Dillon Zellmer wrote:also if i like get the head ported n stuff it wont increase the size at awill it? im thinkin of just buyin parts here n there if i have a lil extra money.
What do you mean by increase the size?
I'll try and explain this...a port and polish is done to increase flow into the motor. When you port & polish, you port & polish the valves in the cylinder head. I believe when they polish they only do one side (either intake ports or exhaust ports).
You can buy a fully ported and polished head with upgrade springs & retainers for around $1000 (atleast that's how much mine costed me).
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whered u get urs from? n how much do u think it would cost to get a motor from a local junkyard? ill look tomar but i was just lookin to see if someone knew.
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Dillon Zellmer wrote:whered u get urs from? n how much do u think it would cost to get a motor from a local junkyard? ill look tomar but i was just lookin to see if someone knew.
I bought my head for about $1200 with all the bells and whistles.
You can never know what kind of prices it will be...check out
www.car-part.com.
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hey. i'm more so a newbie too. i also have the ohv engine and was looking to build it up. i was told that if i went 10:1 compression ratio pistons that i would have to run gas higher than 92 octane gas. or will 92 octane work in my engine with 10:1 compression ratio.
also i was planning on going the whole way with my setup. I'm not looking for a drag car, just something fun and quick.
my plan was to get a junkyard engine and rebuild that one so i could just drop it into my car and not have to worry about down time.
i've been reading alot at jbodyperfomance.com and they have alotta good stuff. But can i just take the stock crankshaft and go get it knife-edged and lightened like they do? that would save so much money in the long run.
one last question: how much HP can my auto tranny handle?
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Oyyci wrote:Man NJHK, i should have talked to you more when i was down lol. you know alot about what i wanna do over the winter. I want to get a spare engine from a junkyard and build it for boost next year...
Yeah man, I could have helped you out a bit just in conversation.
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Sean McAfee wrote:hey. i'm more so a newbie too. i also have the ohv engine and was looking to build it up. i was told that if i went 10:1 compression ratio pistons that i would have to run gas higher than 92 octane gas. or will 92 octane work in my engine with 10:1 compression ratio.
also i was planning on going the whole way with my setup. I'm not looking for a drag car, just something fun and quick.
my plan was to get a junkyard engine and rebuild that one so i could just drop it into my car and not have to worry about down time.
i've been reading alot at jbodyperfomance.com and they have alotta good stuff. But can i just take the stock crankshaft and go get it knife-edged and lightened like they do? that would save so much money in the long run.
one last question: how much HP can my auto tranny handle?
That's a very good idea. Since you were going to get an engine...you sure you want to get another OHV motor or upgrade to an ECOTEC? If you did that, you'll have DOHC technology on your hands which helps a bit, not saying you can't build a high powered OHV but just asking if you were interested in doing so.
You could actually run 89 octane and be fine at 10:1 compression. I'm actually running 89 but stock I could run 86 octane if I wanted to. ECOTEC's stock come with a 10:1 compression ratio.
Were you planning you on turboing or running all motor?
If your turboing, 9:1 compression pistons would be ideal. If your going all motor you could actually do either 10:1 or 10.5:1 compression pistons and be alright. With a 10.5:1 you should be able to run 93 octane and run properly.
If you didn't know...the lower compression piston you have, the less likely to detonating you have.
Which transmission do you have? 3-speed or 4-speed?
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Oyyci wrote:Man NJHK, i should have talked to you more when i was down lol. you know alot about what i wanna do over the winter. I want to get a spare engine from a junkyard and build it for boost next year...
BTW If you have any questions, just ask...
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NJHK (Sexual Chocolate) wrote:Oyyci wrote:Man NJHK, i should have talked to you more when i was down lol. you know alot about what i wanna do over the winter. I want to get a spare engine from a junkyard and build it for boost next year...
BTW If you have any questions, just ask...
well i don't know much as to what i should get or where to get it from, all i really know is i want to upgrade whatever i can, and i think i want to stay with the 2200 for a couple reasons. Biggest is because when it is time to swap the built in it'll just be out with the old in with the new, no screwing with anything else. And the another reason is because HP is coming out with the tuning software for the 2200 first right? And kinda want to do it because it's kind of the "underdog" engine of them
.
I read every thread about head work, or about building the bottom end, and i have read the How to: at the top, but if you know of any other places were i can get some info to read up, that would be great.
iver the next 2 years i'd think i'd like to run boost, idk how much but enough that i have a respectably quick car. I definetly want over 200hp.
Thanks NJHK
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Oyyci wrote:
iver the next 2 years i'd think i'd like to run boost, idk how much but enough that i have a respectably quick car. I definetly want over 200hp.
Thanks NJHK
If you are talking about running a turbo you might not want to go all motor first. With boost youre going to want low compression not high
Steve Winslow wrote:Oyyci wrote:
iver the next 2 years i'd think i'd like to run boost, idk how much but enough that i have a respectably quick car. I definetly want over 200hp.
Thanks NJHK
If you are talking about running a turbo you might not want to go all motor first. With boost youre going to want low compression not high
Actually if he wanted to fully re-build the motor and run 9:1 compression pistons he can and not lose any power because stock he is running 9:1 compression. 9:1 is an ideal compression ratio for boosted vehicles.
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