I've been noticing a small wobble in my car when I hit the brakes. It's not when I stomp on them so much as when I slowly slow down.

My father and I changed my brakes a while back, and he's done it on numerous vehicles, so I don't think that's the issue. I do know that he had to tighten his lug nuts again after 100 miles due to the type of metal his rim is made of. (Aluminum? Chrome? I don't know) Anyways, I was wondering if this could be the issue. I just scoured my entire car looking for my tire iron, but I can't find the damned thing. I think I left it in a friends car or something

Usually thats a sign of a warped rotor. Our lug nuts are 19mm, so just find a socket. I never use a tire iron anyway.

That's what my father thought it was too. Guess it's time for new rotors

I have close to the same problem, but I would say my car feels like it is bouncing forwards and backwards. It almost feels like the brakes engage hard then lighten up and make the car bounce then they tighten up again. It just cycles. A friend said it is probably my drums and they needed to be rounded out. After reading this I think it could possibly be my rotors. Does that sound right?


1999 Sunfire 2.2L

To see if the problem is with the drums, get the car doing about 40-50MPH on a clear road, and carefully try braking using the parking brake (with the button pushed in). Don't lock up the wheels! If you feel the pulsation, then it's likely one of the drums that's gone out of round, or a damaged rear hub. Sometimes cast brake parts like drums and rotors can have defects in them that generate hard or soft spots, so often machining the parts won't correct the problem (or at least, not for long). Once you narrow down the part that's causing your problem, then change both on that end of the car (front or rear).
Although I don't like to promote them, I've had reasonably good luck with some of the off-shore brake parts. Here, I find that the "premium" (typically domestic) parts cost about 4 times as much, and my luck hasn't been much different. Unless they are worn very evenly (smooth with no grooves), I would replace the pads or shoes at the same time. Some of the newer pads are so hard that they'll likely damage the new rotor if they have any high spots, so I always just change them at the same time. I've currently got the "economy" parts on my car right now, and just lately I've occasionally noticed some pulsation, but that's after about 65,000km of use. Wear still looks better than 50% after that time, so I can't complain much I guess, considering I spent less than $50 for complete rotors and pads when I bought them. At that time, each of the "premium" rotors were $60.

@John S
So I followed your instructions. The car did not shake at anywhere near the amount it does with normal breaking. I have to add that I could not get the car to slow down as rapidly either. Could the problem be so small that hard to notice unless breaking rapidly. I am more leaning towards it being my front brakes. I should have the front rotors measured to make sure they are the correct size.


1999 Sunfire 2.2L

I'm yet to find a rotor that doesn't warp in a Cav after 10k, willing to bet that's the problem. If you do change your rotors, check the condition of you calipers while your at it...looking for a ripped seal around the piston or extreme rust. I picked up 2 re-man calipers at autozone for 15 bucks a piece after the core. You'll have much more even braking.


Aaron


97 Cavalier Z24 @ 85k
00 Cavalier Base Coupe @ 152k...rollin on 14's!
97 Grand Cherokee 5.2L@ 260k